A pig with a welded rear...? (1 Viewer)

[ppillard]

I know I could search for an answer to this question on other forums, but I think this question should be here for good info purposes, sooooo...

Have any of you ran a pig with a welded rear? When I ran my samurai, I welded the rear and locked the front. Aside from the tires chirping on sharp turns, I had absolutely no problems on the road with it. A pig however is a lot heavier, and I don't want to lose my on-roadability.

The reason I ask is I was thinking of getting a detroit soft locker, but it will be many moons before I can save the cash (I'm pretty much tapped out, and the wife would just come unglued if I spent more). Since most lockers replace whole spider carrier, I thought I could weld up a couple of teeth to work until I could afford my lockers...

What think you knights?

 

[clemson55]

You must have never glanced at my info there good sir. Welded strong since March. Only had it out a few times do to other problems (dizzy went out) but I drove it about 25 miles on the road to the trail on some curvy roads with no problems. Then I went all over on the trail and it worked well the whole time. I also took it to a subdivision they are building to test it out when I first did it and cut a couple doughnuts, I figured I'd rather it go out 2 miles from my house then 30 had no problems then either. So I will say that if you follow the steps in the tech post and do it right its is a great option.

 

[ppillard]

Hmmm, this sounds good. I have welded up a diff exactly as the tech section described.

Have you heard of just picking two teeth of a spider gear and welding them up? It gives you a bit of slop, but ultimately locks up. Have you heard how well this mod is holding up?

I think I'm gonna weld the front only for now. Then, when I go wheelin', I can just lock the passenger side hub, and if I really need some extra traction, I can hop out and lock up the driver hub. This will allow me complete road-ability, and if I need more traction, I can just go from there...

Any comments or concerns on this?

 

[clemson55]

I have not heard of anyone welding just 2 teeth. I started like 3 threads on the matter and read every one I could find and everyone said do it like they say in tech dont short yourself. I would bet that only doing 2 teeth would be a good bit weaker. Much more chance of breaking it. I also read not to weld the front, or at least its not recommended. I think it stresses the birf a lot and makes it a good bit harder to turn especially without power steering. Thats just my 2 cents based on what I've read.

 

[ppillard]

Actually, you would weld one gear, between two teeth, so that all the parts would move as normal, until the filled teeth encountered another spider, at which point they would bind and cause a lock. I have heard of people doing it, but I've never heard of long term results...

I can see how any locker of any sort would cause stress to birfs, and I know how a locked front diff feels without power steering. I have power steering, and I have to wonder how it all would work, provided you kept a light foot on the matter (which is my normal wheelin' style)...

 

[clemson55]

I see what you mean about the 2 teeth, sounds like an opportunity for break a couple teeth off to me. I mean going 5 or 10 miles an hr isnt that fast but when all the tourque suddenly hits on those teeth that would be a lot of stress. I guess if it was me I'd just do it like the tech post, get a locker, or not do it at all. Unless I had a backup diff. I have an extra rear diff and once I get my parts pig I'll have 2 so I dont worry to bad. I just bring one on the trail just in case.

 

[CruisinGA]

I've heard of the welding two teeth.

IMO bad idea.

Lets things gain momentum and shock load to go "pop".

I doubt the slack makes any difference.

With a long wheelbase like the pig you should notice it less than you did with the samurai.

Weld On!

I run a locked front end, but without lots of gearing, or power, or large tires, and I have Longfields with chro-moly inners. It is way overkill.

I would have no problems running lockud up front with up to 33" tires on drum birfs, and 35" tires on minitruck/late birfs. Lots of gearing or power in either situation and it would be a stretch.

 

[mookie]

doing what you mentioned about locking one hub at a time seems like it would REally stress the hell out of the birfield on that side. have you thought about lockrights? you can probably find a couple of used ones pretty reasonably...oh and if you DO weld up your rear and then hate the way it rides, you can always find another set of spider gears to put back in there, i've got like 4 sets of those sitting around collecting dust...

 

[clemson55]

If you decide to weld the front and want a backup let me know and we can work out something for the spare I'm gonna have on my parts pig. Wont be picking it up until early to mid august now instead of this weekend but stuff happens. Id say not to mess with the front though Just weld up the back and then aussie the front later on when you save up a few bucks, thats my plan. But I have to do the power steering conversion first.

 

[ppillard]

Cool. Thanks, Clemson.

I'm gonna take a few days and think about this...

 

[CruisinGA]

It is completely normal to lock only one side when the front end is welded. There is actually less stress to that one birfield when turning because each side is no longer fighting the other.

doing what you mentioned about locking one hub at a time seems like it would REally stress the hell out of the birfield on that side. have you thought about lockrights? you can probably find a couple of used ones pretty reasonably...oh and if you DO weld up your rear and then hate the way it rides, you can always find another set of spider gears to put back in there, i've got like 4 sets of those sitting around collecting dust...

 

[ppillard]

Mookie, did you ever sell those lockrights you had in the classified section?

 

[mookie]

nope, still got them...lots of interest but no buyers yet

 

[mookie]

It is completely normal to lock only one side when the front end is welded. There is actually less stress to that one birfield when turning because each side is no longer fighting the other.

interesting....it seems like it would double the amount of stress/torque/power to that one side to me, but hell i'm a rookie in this game lol and certainly no engineer...

i'm having a hard time getting my mind around this concept but i'll take your word for it

 

[ppillard]

Well, I would think that it would cause additional stress too, as the function of an open diff is to provided power away from excessive resistance. This keeps stuff from breaking, but allows for piss-poor traction. When you weld it, you're eliminating that resistance sensing condom....

I'm hoping that I can use a gentle foot and a level head to keep from breaking stuff.

Mookie, I'm pm'ing you about your lockers...