A couple transfer case rebuild questions

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RWBeringer4x4

Mechanically Challenged
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Hi all,

I’m in the process of putting a 4-speed case back together for the first time. I’ve got a question that even the FSM isn’t answering.

When pressing the bearing down onto the input shaft next to the high speed gear, how close is it supposed to get?

46E843B0-15B0-406A-AF4A-B87D9CFCBF83.jpeg


Currently I’ve got about a .024-.025 gap - with discernible gear play back and forth on the shaft:

9DEFBCFA-BEF5-43E6-991A-A86FA45C8377.jpeg


This seems like a lot... I’m guessing I want it tighter, but I’m not sure how tight is “too tight” and the FSM doesn’t really specify. That, and I put a LOT of force from the shop press and it doesn’t seem to want to travel any further. I figured I’d stop and ask before I break something...




Second - I just noticed the wear on my high-low clutch. I actually have a couple of them, one is significantly more severe than the other:

Worse:
B94776AF-01EF-4F3D-B7C8-EE6543B59660.jpeg


Better:
EA8316CB-8D11-4197-B96A-BB222EAAFB79.jpeg


Could I run either of them or is a replacement in order? I suppose I could flip it around so the undamage side is in contact with the high speed gear since it would see more use...does that work or does it make sense to just chuck these and find a new one?
 
As long as the bearing is pressed all the way on until it hits its stop with the washer, it is all good. You definitely want to run the clutch gear with the least wear. If I remember correctly, it is symmetrical so you can flip it so the unworn side is facing the high speed gear.
 
As long as the bearing is pressed all the way on until it hits its stop with the washer, it is all good. You definitely want to run the clutch gear with the least wear. If I remember correctly, it is symmetrical so you can flip it so the unworn side is facing the high speed gear.

That's the issue - it's not hitting a hard-stop with the washer. I've still got ~.025 of slack allowing the gear and washer to travel back and forth. What worries me is I was starting to put what I would consider to be a dangerous load on the input shaft trying to press the bearing on further. Maybe I'm wimping out too early?
 
Nevermind - Just went out and checked and now I see what you're talking about - the gear can move back and forth .025in, but the washer is jammed up against the bearing and won't budge, so I guess I'm good to go. Didn't realize the washer would provide a "hard stop" before fully sandwiching the gear. I guess that explains the lack of a spec in the FSM.
 
Nevermind - Just went out and checked and now I see what you're talking about - the gear can move back and forth .025in, but the washer is jammed up against the bearing and won't budge, so I guess I'm good to go. Didn't realize the washer would provide a "hard stop" before fully sandwiching the gear. I guess that explains the lack of a spec in the FSM.
Agreed, you're all good with the gear. For the clutch, I'd definitely flip the better one, it'll last a LONG time that way.
 
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Hey folks,

Total neophyte here... I'm rebuilding my transfer case under some time pressure with insufficient tools. Such is life in the developing world. I'm using the Max Ellerson book - haven't yet located a Factory Service Manual for an April 1980 Toyota Landcruiser HJ45 Trooper.

This thread has been helpful to me - thank you.

The bearing on the high-speed end of the output shaft had exploded, leaving parts floating all over the transfer case... some rollers even migrated over to the PTO. Anyhow... challenged by two things.

(1) There was no washer with this bearing, which may have been the problem in the first place. I assume the case was rebuilt, leaving that part out, sometime in the past. I'll try to buy one matching the washer on the low-speed end of the output shaft. Can anybody confirm, are they identical? Not part of the kit, and I'm not sure how easy this will be to find locally...

(2) I'm having a hell of a time pressing a bearing on forward, the high-speed end. A good thing I guess, as I realize I'm missing a washer. I've got the correct rebuild kit from Georg over at Cruiser Brothers. The bearings on both sides of the driver shaft look identical to me... can anybody confirm that? I don't refer to the needle bearing in the end of the shaft, but the roller bearings maintaining the shaft in the casing.

I appreciate all your insight.
 
Well,

OK, nevermind. An experienced mechanic would have seen it right away... but the washer wasn't missing. It had fused to the inner sleeve of the roller bearing, which explained the confusing difference in height (depth?) between the original bearing and its replacement.

I took the shaft, a bearing washer, and the forward roller bearing to a machine shop today, and had them fabricate a new washer, grind off a microlayer of detritus on the shaft left from the destroyed bearing, then press the assembly together. I foresee smooth sailing from here on out...

Perhaps these pictures will help some other newby.

IMG_20180724_212822.jpg


IMG_20180724_212930.jpg
 

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