A couple more questions before I start my TBI swap

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Feb 28, 2008
I've got my engine with all accessories a rebuilt 4l60e, headers, computer, programable vssb and I just ordered a custom harness for everything. As far as remaing big parts to buy i'm down to the shifter and the actually adaptor kit and motor mounts fuel pump and the power steering adaptors.

Am I missing anything major here?

I plan on installing the adaptor and rebuilding the tcase before I touch anything. I'll probably throw the engine on a test stand and run it once to make sure everything is good to go before I tear the cruiser apart as well.

My main question is this. If I have the 5.7 mated to the 4l60e connectected to the adaptor connected to the transfer case all ready to go and the 2f pulled and cleaned up how long does this take you guys to weld on the motor mounts adjust the crossmember and set the engine? I'm fairly mechanical and i'll have a professional welder to do the welds for me right away.

Is this realistic to do in a few hours if everything is out and the engine is prepped ready to go in? After its in there i can take my time and wire and plumb it up.

My other question is after this point what are some things I will need to finish the install and save as many trips to the store as possible. I'm thinking at this point i'm down to hoses for brake booster, radiator, purge canistor, heater core. and some fuel hose. I'm probably going to get the the above and these parts this week. Is there anything I'm missing that would be good to be bought ahead of time? I'm not to worried about the exhause and drive shaft i'll have that taken care of when i'm down.

Any advice is much apprecatiated. Heres a picture of what its going into by the way.
Land cruiser.jpg
Be careful about your engine's position. The motor currently sits a good deal left of center and for a good reason; you don't want the front diff smashing the oil pan, so watch that. For motor mounts, I used simple pieces of angle iron and C-clamps to hold them to the frame rails in the front until I was satisfied that everything was aligned the way I wanted it. I used blocks of wood cut to the dimensions of the stock motor mounts. Then I drilled holes in the brackets and bolted it down, and welded the brackets to the frame. Later I found that the stock mounts will NOT tolerate the V8 for very long before being ripped apart, so I suggest you find an alternative now. I ended up using mounts made from shackle hanger tubing with spring bushings in them. This provides isolation in every direction and plenty of strength. I bolted the bottom of the bracket to the angle which I welded to the frame, so that by removing the bolts, the engine can move straight forward, mounts attached with no upward motion required. This is just to facilitate removing/replacing the motor; its enough work without having to clear obstacles. There are some mounts with bushings available through Advance Adapters, but they didn't look that impressive, so I didn't use them, but you decide what you want.
Lehi, do you have any pictures of what you made?
Reason I ask is that some of the Mini guys are convinced that this type of motor mount will transmit vibrations very badly.

I have Energy Suspension urethane inserts in the OE "Clamshell" engine mounts in my '91 Sub. They are a similar design, but with even less vertical compliance and they don't shake any more than the stock rubber inserts did. These are bolted to the frame. The other half bolts to the engine block.

The mounts that AA sells are, or at least used to be, flathead Ford V8 front engine mounts combined with their own bracketry. I'm not too impressed with those either.
What I made is very similar to what's in the top photo, lower right corner. Minis will always have a vibe concern; they are predominantly four cylinder vehicles, not in the same ballpark as a six or an eight.

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom