Long time reader new thread starter. So I saw a few others on here had discussed using the A/C compressor as an air compressor, and my A/C system is beyond repair without major expense, I thought I would give it a shot.
Parts list:
Pressure switch (replacement for air compressor, mine was from Ace Hardware 80PSI on 100PSI off. It is square D brand and I slightly enlarged one mounting hole and used a threaded hole that was in the fender already to attach it. Also used a rubber washer behind it when I bolted it on. about 30$
Pressure Gauge, mine is 0-200 PSI. about 10$
Female Quick connect of your preferred style. about 5$
Pressure relief valve, I don't actually have one and it seems ok but I would reccomend using one about 25-50 PSI higher than your pressure switch cut off pressure. about 10$
3/8" ID hose capable of higher pressure than your pressure switch/ relief valve. (buy it by the foot. I needed about 5 feet IIRC) about 10$ total
1/2" ID hose for inlet of compressor, does not need to be pressure rated, just so It doesn't collapse on itself when the compressor is sucking through it. I just have some fancy Gates hose because thats what I had. (buy it by the foot. I needed about 3 feet to get it up into the fender area near the battery.) about 6$ total
Three barbed T fittings for 3/8" ID hose. I used plastic ones and they seem fine, about 2$ each
1/4" NPT female to 3/8" ID hose barb adapter for discharge of compressor.
3/8" NPT female to 1/2" ID hose barb adapter for intake of compressor.
Adapters for back of pressure gauge, pressure switch, Quick connecter, and pressure relief to 3/8" ID hose barb (mostly 1/4" NPT some female and some male depending on what components you end up with.)
2 grommets to put in the holes through the fender for the pressure gauge and quick connect ( I did not cut any holes, just used ones that were there) the grommets I used were for a 1-7/16" hole with a 1" ID, they are a little loose as the fender holes are about 1-1/2" but thats all I could find. about 2$ each
Lots of hoseclamps! about a dozen-fifteenish.
The trickiest part for my method is threading the ends from your A/C hoses so that you can screw on the brass fittings. I cut the aluminum ends off as long as possible and gently clamped them in a vise, the small one is the discharge and is very close to the right size to thread it for 1/4" NPT (tapered pipe thread) At work we have a set of pipe dies so I did it over lunch break, use a little cutting oil and get it as straight as possible. The larger one (discharge) is a little on the small side for 3/8" NPT but it won't have any pressure so the couple threads that you can get on it with a die is enough. You can get thread cutting dies at a hardware store or fastenal. Usually they have a hex shaped body so you can turn them with a large wrench. Use a little teflon tape and put the brass fittings onto the intake/ discharge pipes so it looks something like this.
[URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624792&d=1335208135"][URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624792&d=1335208135"]
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I ran all of the hoses inside the fender so as not to have a cluttered mess. (I'm anal about that kind of stuff.) It's kinda tricky to get the hoses all attached and hose clamps tightened inside the fender but with the right order of assembly it can be done.
[URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624793&d=1335208135"][URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624793&d=1335208135"]
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Use the grommets to protect the paint from scratching and absorb any vibration (not that our fantastic 2f engines aren't smooth as silk...)
[URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624794&d=1335208135"][URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624794&d=1335208135"]
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For the wiring I used 16ga wire and went from battery, to fuse holder with 15A fuse, then to the orange rocker switch, then through the contacts on pressure switch, the used a spade terminal to connect the the factory wire to the compressor (see first pick about 8 inches from compresser up the string of wires.)
(to avoid confusion that relay right next to the pressure switch is not a part of this system, just another one of my hack jobs.)
I have used it a couple times and it works great, spray a little air tool oil into the intake every once in a while and it should last for a good long time, the A/C system operated at much higher pressures than 100PSI. Eventually I plan to wire the idle up solenoid into the circuit too so that when the compressor runs it also cranks the idle up to 1800rpm. Some calculation and timing estimate a average of 5 cfm at idle speed and 12 cfm at 1800rpm. The more air you need just rev it up. I usually fill an 11 gallon portable tank, and from 0 to 100 PSI at idle takes 1 minute and 50 seconds, at 1800rpm it takes 55 seconds.
Questions, Comments, Im always open to more/better ideas.
Parts list:
Pressure switch (replacement for air compressor, mine was from Ace Hardware 80PSI on 100PSI off. It is square D brand and I slightly enlarged one mounting hole and used a threaded hole that was in the fender already to attach it. Also used a rubber washer behind it when I bolted it on. about 30$
Pressure Gauge, mine is 0-200 PSI. about 10$
Female Quick connect of your preferred style. about 5$
Pressure relief valve, I don't actually have one and it seems ok but I would reccomend using one about 25-50 PSI higher than your pressure switch cut off pressure. about 10$
3/8" ID hose capable of higher pressure than your pressure switch/ relief valve. (buy it by the foot. I needed about 5 feet IIRC) about 10$ total
1/2" ID hose for inlet of compressor, does not need to be pressure rated, just so It doesn't collapse on itself when the compressor is sucking through it. I just have some fancy Gates hose because thats what I had. (buy it by the foot. I needed about 3 feet to get it up into the fender area near the battery.) about 6$ total
Three barbed T fittings for 3/8" ID hose. I used plastic ones and they seem fine, about 2$ each
1/4" NPT female to 3/8" ID hose barb adapter for discharge of compressor.
3/8" NPT female to 1/2" ID hose barb adapter for intake of compressor.
Adapters for back of pressure gauge, pressure switch, Quick connecter, and pressure relief to 3/8" ID hose barb (mostly 1/4" NPT some female and some male depending on what components you end up with.)
2 grommets to put in the holes through the fender for the pressure gauge and quick connect ( I did not cut any holes, just used ones that were there) the grommets I used were for a 1-7/16" hole with a 1" ID, they are a little loose as the fender holes are about 1-1/2" but thats all I could find. about 2$ each
Lots of hoseclamps! about a dozen-fifteenish.
The trickiest part for my method is threading the ends from your A/C hoses so that you can screw on the brass fittings. I cut the aluminum ends off as long as possible and gently clamped them in a vise, the small one is the discharge and is very close to the right size to thread it for 1/4" NPT (tapered pipe thread) At work we have a set of pipe dies so I did it over lunch break, use a little cutting oil and get it as straight as possible. The larger one (discharge) is a little on the small side for 3/8" NPT but it won't have any pressure so the couple threads that you can get on it with a die is enough. You can get thread cutting dies at a hardware store or fastenal. Usually they have a hex shaped body so you can turn them with a large wrench. Use a little teflon tape and put the brass fittings onto the intake/ discharge pipes so it looks something like this.
[URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624792&d=1335208135"][URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624792&d=1335208135"]
[/URL][/URL]I ran all of the hoses inside the fender so as not to have a cluttered mess. (I'm anal about that kind of stuff.) It's kinda tricky to get the hoses all attached and hose clamps tightened inside the fender but with the right order of assembly it can be done.
[URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624793&d=1335208135"][URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624793&d=1335208135"]
[/URL][/URL]Use the grommets to protect the paint from scratching and absorb any vibration (not that our fantastic 2f engines aren't smooth as silk...)
[URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624794&d=1335208135"][URL="https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=624794&d=1335208135"]
[/URL][/URL]For the wiring I used 16ga wire and went from battery, to fuse holder with 15A fuse, then to the orange rocker switch, then through the contacts on pressure switch, the used a spade terminal to connect the the factory wire to the compressor (see first pick about 8 inches from compresser up the string of wires.)
(to avoid confusion that relay right next to the pressure switch is not a part of this system, just another one of my hack jobs.)
I have used it a couple times and it works great, spray a little air tool oil into the intake every once in a while and it should last for a good long time, the A/C system operated at much higher pressures than 100PSI. Eventually I plan to wire the idle up solenoid into the circuit too so that when the compressor runs it also cranks the idle up to 1800rpm. Some calculation and timing estimate a average of 5 cfm at idle speed and 12 cfm at 1800rpm. The more air you need just rev it up. I usually fill an 11 gallon portable tank, and from 0 to 100 PSI at idle takes 1 minute and 50 seconds, at 1800rpm it takes 55 seconds.
Questions, Comments, Im always open to more/better ideas.
