A/C Compressor Siezed or .....? Please Help! (1 Viewer)

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Colonal Angus

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Aug 13, 2008
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Alright guys, my wife said that her a/c was no longer blowing cold air. We both just figured that it was low on freon...so, I brought it into my shop to re-charge the refrigerant and one of my shop guys noticed a slight burning smell. He said it looked like the compressor clutch was trying to engage but the compressor wouldn't budge. The clutch would then just stop trying to engage after a few seconds. He tried to turn the clutch by hand and it still wouldn't budge. Is this the sign of a bad compressor ($550 :mad:) or might I be so lucky that it's a faulty relay/fuse that's not letting the compressor kick? Please let me know what you think. I know nothing about auto a/c and at least need to know if the dealer is being honest with me.

I'll take it in to a dealership this week. BUT, if it's possibly a relay/fuse that's gone bad (not $550)...are they still gonna try telling me that the compressor needs to be replaced? I hate feeling like I'm gonna get screwed by the dealership.

What do I do?

Thanks!!
 
I would remove the belt 1st, generally the belt should freewheel until the coil is locked in. Does the compressor turn after the belt is removed? if not it is locked up

Colonal Angus said:
Alright guys, my wife said that her a/c was no longer blowing cold air. We both just figured that it was low on freon...so, I brought it into my shop to re-charge the refrigerant and one of my shop guys noticed a slight burning smell. He said it looked like the compressor clutch was trying to engage but the compressor wouldn't budge. The clutch would then just stop trying to engage after a few seconds. He tried to turn the clutch by hand and it still wouldn't budge. Is this the sign of a bad compressor ($550 :mad:) or might I be so lucky that it's a faulty relay/fuse that's not letting the compressor kick? Please let me know what you think. I know nothing about auto a/c and at least need to know if the dealer is being honest with me.

I'll take it in to a dealership this week. BUT, if it's possibly a relay/fuse that's gone bad (not $550)...are they still gonna try telling me that the compressor needs to be replaced? I hate feeling like I'm gonna get screwed by the dealership.

What do I do?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
 
I'll check that. I forgot to mention....when I first started the LC with a/c on, the RPMs were unstable for a few seconds. I can't believe something like an a/c compressor would fail so early on a Land Cruiser.
 
Colonal Angus said:
I'll check that. I forgot to mention....when I first started the LC with a/c on, the RPMs were unstable for a few seconds. I can't believe something like an a/c compressor would fail so early on a Land Cruiser.
Click to expand...

Same symptoms that I was having with the RPMs. The clutch trys to engage and the compressor is siezed so it loads the motor until the clutch trips out after a few seconds. I took it to the dealer and they quoted $2100 to replace the compressor, dryer, expansion valve, flush the system and then refill. :bang: Let me know what they quote you if its the same issue.
 
Having a similar issue with mine right now... although not siezed.... I had a shop tell me the compressor stop sensor has gone bad. If you have a good local shop they should quote around $1200 to replace the compressor. You can get a new compressor from a guy on here for a little under $400. I can send you the link when I get home tonight. Most of the cost comes from the labor. You have to pull the LH drive shaft to do the change. Fun huh?

Also if you want to check the relay (doesnt sound like that is the issue) open the fuse panel behind the battery in the engine compartment. There is a realy called MG CLT. That is the magnetic clutch relay. Switch it with one right next to it. It is the same relay but for the side mirror heater (I believe) and see if it makes a difference. If it doesnt.... relay is probably fine.
 
Spoke to the dealer today...several actually. A couple of them recommended that I first try to change out the relay. So, I immediately looked for a replacement but I couldn't even find the MG CLT (magnetic clutch relay) is in the fuse box. I looked at it several times and couldn't find it. I only have about 5-6 relays in there. The closest thing I could find was the C/OPN relay but that's for the fuel pump.

So, with no way to try the relay I crawled back to my local stealer and he said they can work on repairing/replacing the clutch for $650 (included de-charge / re-charge system). If it is, in fact, the compressor....it will cost an additional $500+-. Most of the $650 is labor. I hate this feeling. He did say they will check everything to weed out all the possibilities but for some reason I feel like it's going to end up on the more expensive end of things.

I have a hard time believing that the compressor is faulty among these Land Cruisers. That's why we paid a premium for the best vehicle in the world....now I'm replacing a fairly major part in the rig at 6 years old. So much for me bragging to friends and family about how reliable she is. I still love the 100 more than any vehicle I've ever owned and it's still my dream car (well, Zane's 100 is my dream car) but I'm just pissed. I'd hate to think that I'll have to replace another compressor at 160,000. If it was my truck...I'd rock out without a/c for a while but it's my wife's daily driver for now.

Wish me luck. :beer:
 
Yeah, the #1 location on mine is for the heater blower. It's so weird. I think 2004 is the only year that doesn't have them. Thanks for the diagram.

Are you guys just going to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer? What about a non-dealer technician? Or a auto a/c specialist? I feel like those guys are more honest and definitely cheaper. What do you think?
 
Replaced the a/c compressor, receiver drier and expansion valve yesterday. With a lot of help from a friend (he did it) we got my a/c back up and running. The dealer wanted $650 to repair the clutch, $1200 to replace the compressor. I bought the a/c compressor (brand new w/ clutch from thepartsladi.com) for $350 shipped, the expansion valve for $30 and the drier for $18.....all Denso products. I was selling a like new Michelin LTX MS that my buddy needed for his truck....I gave him the tire and will probably float him another $100+- for the work. He recharged my a/c but didn't turn on the rear a/c.....Is that a huge problem? and should I have it vacuumed and recharged with both front and rear on? The a/c blows cold but I don't to mess anything up.

p.s. My buddy did not have to remove the driver side driveshaft as the FSM states. He just removed the skid plate and made it happen.
 
Great job on the repair
Normally you are supposed to Vacuum the whole system when you have it open. The rear ac should have been included when the freon was extracted system drawn down and freon reintroduced.
So I think you are good to go
 
Colonal Angus said:
Replaced the a/c compressor, receiver drier and expansion valve yesterday. With a lot of help from a friend (he did it) we got my a/c back up and running. The dealer wanted $650 to repair the clutch, $1200 to replace the compressor. I bought the a/c compressor (brand new w/ clutch from thepartsladi.com) for $350 shipped, the expansion valve for $30 and the drier for $18.....all Denso products. I was selling a like new Michelin LTX MS that my buddy needed for his truck....I gave him the tire and will probably float him another $100+- for the work. He recharged my a/c but didn't turn on the rear a/c.....Is that a huge problem? and should I have it vacuumed and recharged with both front and rear on? The a/c blows cold but I don't to mess anything up.

p.s. My buddy did not have to remove the driver side driveshaft as the FSM states. He just removed the skid plate and made it happen.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Curious.... any more insight to how he did the replacement with out pulling the drive shaft? Also, was it up on a lift, jack stands, sitting on the ground??? thanks!
 
Okay, so the a/c saga continues. I now know why the a/c compressor seized.

Woke up yesterday morning, pumped up to start painting my 3rd gen 4runner's rims. I moved the 100 for extra garage space and noticed a puddle of clear oil on the ground (a lot like the oil that you put in the a/c system). The oil was coming from the outlet where the condensation exits. So, I called my buddy, he rushed over to check it out....we pulled the glove box and noticed the evaporator was soaking wet in the front bottom corner w/ a lot of debris in there.....had to have been it because we replaced the expansion valve (so that wasn't the probelm). I ordered an evaporator and will be replacing it tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm still well under budget (dealer quote).

Mxndrnks, I'm not exactly sure how he maneuvered the compressor to get it out (I was still working at that point). I know that he removed the skids and the engine oil filter to get to it. He only had the front driver's side tire off the ground...using a floor jack on the frame behind the tire. Tire was only lifted enough to change the tire (height wise). The ground clearance is horrible on the stock hunny. I feel like I can walk under my 3rd gen 4runner and it only has 2.5" lift with 255/85s.

I'll tell you this. The 2 bolts holding the expansion valve to the evaporator were the biggest pain the butt. I guess because of the amount of moisture in the a/c system, the bolts were rusted to the evaporator. We'll be replacing those now, too. They're done.
 
Thanks! I'll look into it. I have an OME lift right now. So, that should help.
 
Seems that should have been caught when the system was brought down into a vacuum.
The gauges would have indicated a loss.
Glad you caught the problem
 
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