Posted earlier about a wobbling clutch pulley on the A/C. Ended up getting some very useful info from TX Cruiser (Rebilds a/c compressors). He told me I might want to replace the bearing on the pulley and was able to supply one for $10 bux. Got to admit it sounded a whole lot better than buying a new/reman compessor.
The most important factor for me was being able to accomplish this without opening up the system and having to get it vacumed/re-filled; I don't like having to hire any help when it comes to automobile projects. Turns out that it's no only possible, it's a total breeze
TX Cruiser sent me the bearing and I was ready to get it going on.
Tools:
Socket set, retaining clip pliers small/medium, gear puller for seperating the pulley from shaft (may slip off without), some pipe the same diameter as the outside of the bearing (pounding it back in the pulley). There is a clutch puller/installer kit that you can rent at Oreillys (which I did, but ending up not using).
(1) Remove 10mm bolt that hold the front plate on before you remove the belt unless you have another way to keep the compessor from spinning (impact wrench).
(2) Remove belt, remove compressor and flip it over so you can secure it up on top, (plenty of slack in the flexible lines)
You will then have to remove the very visible retaining clip, wich is a no brainer. After that the pulley assembly is ready to come off. Mine would slide on the shaft but wouldn't come off the end. I figured it just needed a little tap from behind so I proceeded with a hammer and small punch. Careful or you might screw up and tear/break the very thin outer edge that holds the retaining clip in; which is exactly what I did. The clip sits deep enough in the groove that there was plenty of lip left to hold it upon re-assembly.
Next, you will want to punch/press the bearing out of the pulley. There are some very small indentions that have been punched around the outside of the pulley, (where the bearing is housed), that hold the bearing in. It fits so tight that I really don't see the point in them though. You can take a punch and knock them back, or you can just go ahead and pound the bearing out.
Installing the bearing is where you want to be careful. You don't want to damage it so it is important to find some pipe that only contacts the outer edge of the bearing. Start pounding; (a press would be a little more controlled, but by no means a neccessity).
Time to re-assemble: There was a very slight difference in tolerance on the new bearings inner race/ to shaft. I mixed up some quick dry JB weld, coated the shaft, and slid the bearing over the shaft. Re-installed the clip, tapped the "remaing" outer lip down tight (only because I damaged it), then slid the outer plate back on. Went ahead and put the 10mm bolt back in and re-assembled everything. Don't forget to tighten that bolt down after the belt is back on (so the pulley can be held in place).
I re-assembled, fired it up and it purrs like a kitten. $10 bux and 90 minutes worth of labor beats a new compessor; at least for now if nothing else
The most important factor for me was being able to accomplish this without opening up the system and having to get it vacumed/re-filled; I don't like having to hire any help when it comes to automobile projects. Turns out that it's no only possible, it's a total breeze
TX Cruiser sent me the bearing and I was ready to get it going on.
Tools:
Socket set, retaining clip pliers small/medium, gear puller for seperating the pulley from shaft (may slip off without), some pipe the same diameter as the outside of the bearing (pounding it back in the pulley). There is a clutch puller/installer kit that you can rent at Oreillys (which I did, but ending up not using).
(1) Remove 10mm bolt that hold the front plate on before you remove the belt unless you have another way to keep the compessor from spinning (impact wrench).
(2) Remove belt, remove compressor and flip it over so you can secure it up on top, (plenty of slack in the flexible lines)
You will then have to remove the very visible retaining clip, wich is a no brainer. After that the pulley assembly is ready to come off. Mine would slide on the shaft but wouldn't come off the end. I figured it just needed a little tap from behind so I proceeded with a hammer and small punch. Careful or you might screw up and tear/break the very thin outer edge that holds the retaining clip in; which is exactly what I did. The clip sits deep enough in the groove that there was plenty of lip left to hold it upon re-assembly.
Next, you will want to punch/press the bearing out of the pulley. There are some very small indentions that have been punched around the outside of the pulley, (where the bearing is housed), that hold the bearing in. It fits so tight that I really don't see the point in them though. You can take a punch and knock them back, or you can just go ahead and pound the bearing out.
Installing the bearing is where you want to be careful. You don't want to damage it so it is important to find some pipe that only contacts the outer edge of the bearing. Start pounding; (a press would be a little more controlled, but by no means a neccessity).
Time to re-assemble: There was a very slight difference in tolerance on the new bearings inner race/ to shaft. I mixed up some quick dry JB weld, coated the shaft, and slid the bearing over the shaft. Re-installed the clip, tapped the "remaing" outer lip down tight (only because I damaged it), then slid the outer plate back on. Went ahead and put the 10mm bolt back in and re-assembled everything. Don't forget to tighten that bolt down after the belt is back on (so the pulley can be held in place).
I re-assembled, fired it up and it purrs like a kitten. $10 bux and 90 minutes worth of labor beats a new compessor; at least for now if nothing else
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