A/C Air warm (1 Viewer)

[NYNick]

Blue light comes on, fan works, pulley turning. Blows hot air. Don't think the clutch is engaging but how can I tell?

I haven't used the A/C in years, but it would be nice to have it during these hot days in NY.

Suggestions? Diagnostics?

Thanks

Nick

 

[2mbb]

This post has a wiring diagram for the AC system: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/275321-wiring-needed-c-idle-up-circuit.html#post4282814

I'm not sure what makes the blue light come on--just pushing in the button, or meeting all the other conditions required to have the magnetic clutch engage.

There are probably some tests, etc. in the FSM (body and chassis manual), but from the wiring diagram there is a pressure switch and a thermistor that are inputs to the A/C amplifer. There is is also a knob on the A/C amplifer that sets when the clutch kicks in (maybe at what RPM).

You can start by applying 12V directly to the cluch to see if you get a "click" (do this with the engine off).

Then work through the other parts: you need to have freon charged in the system, the pressure switch should be working, etc...

 

[Coolstream]

To check for the clutch engaging, look at the front of the compressor clutch. The hub is in front of the pulley, and will be stationary with the A/C off. The pulley will rotate any time the engine is running. Once you depress the A/C button, the hub should begin to rotate. If it doesn't engage, the most likely cause is low refrigerant, due to a leak somewhere in the system. If you hot-wire the compressor, only do it for a short time period, check the vent and see if it is cool/cold. Also check the sight-glass which is on the drier, next to the condenser and see if there are bubbles in it. If so, it's low on refrigerant.

 

[gregnash]

Might be asking much but Coolstream, any chance you could take some pics of what you are talking about? Would be greatly helpful to see what you are describing (this will be one of the first things I check when I go to grab a cruiser.. Damn N. NV heat).

 

[Coolstream]

These may not be perfect, but they will give you a general idea.

 

[NYNick]

Beautiful Coolstream! I'll check it tomorrow. Seeing as how I haven;t used the A/C in years, I'm hoping it's just low on refrigerant.

Thanks

NYNick

 

[Lugal]

Nick, I'm seeing the same thing on my 60. I'm up in Putnam, so could you post back up here if you find someone nearby who can fix or recharge your AC? Thanks.

 

[Landpimp]

AC(at least the older stuff it seems) is one of those things that you need to run(at least sometimes) or they seem to go bad. after 25 years my AC need a part(expansion valve?) and a 2 lbs of R12(and yes I have allot of R12.........Toyota even let me bring my own R12($1 a lb vrs $80)

 

[fj60dave]

when you think your AC should be running and it is not - probably low on refrigerant and the low-pressure switch will not allow the compressor to come on. check all hoses and bottom-front of the compressor for "wet"/oily residue - which shows where your refrigerant escaped. with a very slow leak - you might see nothing. normal for mobile ac to lose refrigerant - they are not "tight" like an r22 system that operates under higher pressures. without a gauge set and some testing know-how...difficult to run these down.

Note: the Land Cruiser Factory Service Manual has one of the best refrigeration sections you can find. specifically the "large" manual in the 3-volume set - titled "Toyota Land Cruiser, Heavy Duty, 1984 Repair Manual, Chassis, Body", section: AC, 40-pages of pure knowledge on how to read/interpret a refrigeration manifold gauge set to diagnose your AC.

Always begin with the most simple resolution - usually bad o-ring.