Builds A build of a moderate Overlander (1 Viewer)

[graymudder]

This is our first build of an Overlander, one in which we will spend a good 5 months a year in, or at least that is the plan. It will become our retirement hobby, and we are also launching a vblog to help encourage the retired crowd get off the couch and into a more active outdoors lifestyle.

The machine is a Land Cruiser 80 1997 40th Anniversary with 290,000 miles on the clock. I already started to baseline her and I will start the documentation from that point.

This will be a 5 stage build

1. Baseline
2. Increase off road capabilities (fun stuff)
3. Over landing (more fun stuff)
4. Electronics (Nav, Coms and other cool stuff)
5. TBD (depending on funds available)

The baseline is still on going but here is what was done so far.

• Rebuild front and rear axles (all with new OEM stuff)
• New U joints prop shafts
• New pads
• Replaced and flushed Brake fluid
• Flushed Rad
• New Down pipe with Cats
• New Battery
• New brake lines
• All liquids replaced
• New Oil change with OEM filter (I had a Napa filter)
• Fixed 3rd brake light

Left to do;

• Replace coolant hoses
• Replace most of the vacuum lines
• Tension-er pulley AC
• EGR

Debating on Transmission flush (comments welcomed on this topic)


Stage 2 Increase my off road capability
I just finished ordering all my parts, Cannot wait to start the build

• 2 x eHarrop Lockers A9334 and A9378
• Dobinson C97-146VT and C97-147VT coils
• Dobinson 4 inch Shocks GS45-912 & GS59-687
• Rubber Castor Bush kit RB59-522K (I have to check if these are castor correcting)
• Sway bar extensions SE59-516 & SE59-517
• Brake proportioning valve extension BA45-005
• Adjustable Panhards (LHD & Rear) PR59-1408 & PR59-1405
• Nitro 4.56 Gear set
• Marlin Crawler Low ranger 3.12 gear set MCTC-1132
• Front bumper and rock slider which I sourced form a closing 4 wheel parts place ( Not the best strategy, since I had to do fab stuff )

Now I have to farm out the work since I do not have access to a facility where i can work of the vehicle, but if I'm within budget I will get a nice set of wheels and 33+ Nitto Grabbers.

The work is scheduled to start on Feb 17. I will gather pics, info and install process so that I may share this info.

Thank you.

 

[Cruzerman]

Sounds like it is going to be a good build. I do have a few questions.

Why gears with only 33's?
Why the brake proportioning valve extension? I would go longer brake lines all around.
Extra fuel tank / larger tank?

I also have a question on your spring choice. Seems on an overlander, you are going to be carrying heavy loads for extended periods. When I was making the spring decision, I too wanted springs like those but after my talks with folks / research, went with a straight heavy spring. I don't think the springs you selected are designed to carry constant heavy loads. I went with the cs59-170 & 171 and have been happy with those in my application. But I am running 35s. May be too much lift for 33s.

 

[Bludozer]

As far as trans flushes are concerned you will get multiple opinions but I am in the drain and refill camp. Especially at 290k the risk of dislodging something with a flush is high, I would most certainly just do a drain/fill.

And for gears, IMO 4.56 is a waste of time. 4.88 is the minimum that is worth it, will pair very well even with 33s assuming you don't need to be going 80mph on the highway.

I would listen to @Cruzerman in regards to springs. Based on your goals you are going to be on the heavier side and you want to be at the lowest height possible with no rub.

 

[graymudder]

I should of described what type of over landing we will be doing. For one, we will not do a lot of wild camping, but revert more to camp grounds (base camp style). As for weight, yes this is one of my concerns. While we will be lightening the vehicle by removing the 2 back rows of seats and some carpeting, I assume the front end will be the heaviest, with Bull bar and winch and 2 batteries. An easy 200 lbs. I'm even considering running my main batteries amid ship of the truck to bring the CG more to the center and lower to the ground. ( 100 lbs of batteries)

For the rear, the spare is moving inside the cabin. I will have 2 small coolers , a light weight rail system for drawers (25 lbs for frame) + 200 lbs cargo. My water storage should be centralized amid ship of the truck , the only external source being 1 Jerry can of fuel. In Quebec it is illegal to run an auxiliary fuel tank :-(

If that is too heavy, I will revert to other coils.

But I love my 4x4 wheelin and a lighter truck is always IMHO the way to go. But lets see how thing evolve.
For the gearing I used this formula which is ((New Tire diameter / Old Tire diameter)x Old gear ratio) = New gear ratio.

so 34/31 =1.1 x 4.1= 4.51 hence 4.56

If this formula is not adequate then yes I will have to revise my axle gearing..

For the transmission, I can get a used one and have it rebuilt and replaced , but she shifts nicely .. I guess time will tell.
I'm thinking of doing this, since the shop will be dropping the T case to do the Marlin Crawler low range gearing. So no big deal to swap the transmission.

And so it begins ....


PS. I also want to replace the front seats (electric), with a very good set of manual seats, thus shedding another 50 or 60 lbs.

 

[Mark W]

If you are gonna be spending long term time in the rig, you really do not want to waste the interior space with a spare tire. Move it back outside.

If you are only running 33s, there is ZERO reason to regear. 4.56s are pretty much a waste of time anyway. Spend your money elsewhere.

Unless your tranny is already malfunctioning , DO NOT powerflush it. Drain and change is totally sufficient and appropriate.

Have you used an '80 off road a lot? For the use and other mods you seem to describe I would not expect the 3:1 low range gears to offer enough gain to make it worth the bother. Again, spend the money elsewhere I think.

I notice you only mention 200 lbs of cargo??? No worries about an overweight rig with only 200 pounds of gear. But for long term travel I would question that number unless you take minimalist to the extreme. Between first aid, tools, basic recovery gear, fire extinguisher and miscellaneous "gotta have handy" junk and my gear for the weekend, I had at least that much for a 800 mile round trip on the road system to go to Chena Hot Springs Resort this month. I have to pack different when the temps get stupid cold, but still, I gotta wonder about "Overlanding" with only 200 pounds of gear. The guys that come up for the Alaska Cruiser Trek usually wind up loading their rigs far in excess of the factory GVWR (far in excess of common sense in some cases!) and they are only on the road for about 3-3 1/2 weeks usually. And they KNOW they will be doing some serious off roading in he middle of it all.


Mark...

 

[sxp]

I agree with Mark W about the spare tire. If you only need the rear interior space for storage, then the spare inside is not that big of a deal, but if you want to sleep two people in the back, the spare takes up too much room.

Currently, I have my spare mounted inside. It has been great for the last couple of years, but now I really need that space, and will be moving it onto a bumper swingout.

 

[mudgudgeon]

With 34"s I'd consider doing the transfer case gears and see how it goes.
I don't think theres any need to regear for road use, particular with an auto.

I wouldn't remove any carpet. The 80s have very little sound deadening material as it is. Remove the carpet, you'll have a lot more road noise coming into the cab

 

[DancesWithMutts]

As far as weight goes, you should take it over a scale. CAT scales at truck stops can be used by anyone, and they tell you your front/rear bias.

I'm sitting within 100 lbs of balanced, with a diesel, dual batteries, bull bar, winch, RTT, sliders, Labs rear bumper, and a bunch of camping gear in the back.

 

[White Stripe]

Your base lining seems a bit light. I would go ahead and flush the transmission. If their is debris in the transmission and a potential problem you want to find out now not on your journey. A flush will let u know if the transmission is in good shape or not. You want as few ticking time bombs as possible. No mention or repairing oil leak repairs, water pump/tstat, radiator, fan clutch, waterproof electrical connectors, ignition parts, window weatherstripping, master cylinder, lspv, rust inspection and repair, tie rod ends, steering box rebuild etc.

 

[ChaseTruck]

I read the list, and I'm like "...wait, where's the fan clutch fluid upgrade, the water pump overdrive pulley, and the TYC radiator??..."
... and then I realize the vehicle is in Canada ...

The Harrop e-lockers - that means there will be new carriers, and therefore gears will have to be set up new anyways, right? Might as well use the opportunity to re-gear - and I would do it with 35s in mind; going through all that, and that 4" lift (which will probably be a bit higher anyways, making your front driveshaft unhappy) - why stay with 33s?

 

[LandLocked93]

Umm....title says, "...Moderate Overlander...", then lists the stages of build with a parts catalog... lol
You've ordered a lot of stuff...that goes well beyond 'moderate'.
And regearing with 33s?? lol Nah.
And not a mention of real baselining the engine and tranny for starters, much less the drive train and bushing sets.
Then speak of untypically light weight for overlanding on springs that others have pointed out aren't really designed for it....but you already have it on order.
Then still others speak of other things you haven't mentioned that themselves would be considered beyond 'moderate'.
You have an approach...and with time and patience you'll be able to sort it out. But dang, mang. The amount of cash you'll have in float is nearly enough to buy another 80 WITH lockers AND a lift.
Good luck. Let us know how a 290kmi untouched tranny holds up. It should do fine in stock trim given the kind of off roading you say you'll be doing. But you plan to add/modify/increase many things, all of which play against it. And being an auto (which is better lol), if it tanks, you're done. No matter what. And if you're in the middle of nowhere...well new axles and shiny wheels count for nothing.

 

[rolliges]

The car came from the factory as more than a capable 'moderate' overlander.

Baseline, get good tires, and go.

 

[Rwhat]

If your going to Harrop E lockers you might as well regear to 4.56 if you plan to stay with 33” tires. You are already paying to replace the carrier and gear setup. Just my opinion. Might be cheaper to go with TC gears though. I haven’t priced them.

 

[graymudder]

Umm....title says, "...Moderate Overlander...", then lists the stages of build with a parts catalog... lol
You've ordered a lot of stuff...that goes well beyond 'moderate'.
And regearing with 33s?? lol Nah.
And not a mention of real baselining the engine and tranny for starters, much less the drive train and bushing sets.
Then speak of untypically light weight for overlanding on springs that others have pointed out aren't really designed for it....but you already have it on order.
Then still others speak of other things you haven't mentioned that themselves would be considered beyond 'moderate'.
You have an approach...and with time and patience you'll be able to sort it out. But dang, mang. The amount of cash you'll have in float is nearly enough to buy another 80 WITH lockers AND a lift.
Good luck. Let us know how a 290kmi untouched tranny holds up. It should do fine in stock trim given the kind of off roading you say you'll be doing. But you plan to add/modify/increase many things, all of which play against it. And being an auto (which is better lol), if it tanks, you're done. No matter what. And if you're in the middle of nowhere...well new axles and shiny wheels count for nothing.

Just to clarify a few things. In Canada its very very hard to get a clean 80 especially with lockers. The examples I have seen are beaten, dirty and no maintenance history. I am sure I missed alot of stuff in baselining this LC. The engine is smooth, lots of power no noise and does not burn oil. But I'm waiting for my shop to do a cylinder head flow test. For the tranny I am on the fence with this.. But wisdom does dictate to flush and see ..

Now for the offroading portion. I do buck the norm, and I have wheeled for the last 25 years mostly Land rovers. IMHO, the lighter the vehicle, with a nice slinky suspension good crawl ratio and set of lockers on smaller skinny tires will get you great results. Also we are wheeling in the East coast, not the same terrain as in the West. Love to do the West coast for a few months... Get you guys to show me some rock crawlin Now you can tell me I'm chasing a ghost with an LC 80 and you are correct, but I have that itch with this truck, believing it will be one hell of a beast once unshackled of its weight.

For the crawl ratio and the 4.56 and if I do my calculations ( 40 to 1) I comes up to 4 to 5 mph at 1650 to 2000 rpm on 33s, its a nice steady pace with no spinning and within the power band. Yes I could do better, but this is a fair compromise for on pavement and true off roading.

This is a moderate build for me and my only hobby. I do travel light and hope that I can attain my weight goal. Everything is carefully examined in terms of weight and if its really required.

I'm might screw up here, but I need to try and if successful this can be an alternative method of overlanding. Again thank you all for your continued comments alot of good stuff here.

 

[graymudder]

If your going to Harrop E lockers you might as well regear to 4.56 if you plan to stay with 33” tires. You are already paying to replace the carrier and gear setup. Just my opinion. Might be cheaper to go with TC gears though. I haven’t priced them.

I am also doing the TC low gear replacement to 3.12

 

[LandLocked93]

...set of lockers on smaller skinny tires will get you great results.

Lead with that next time. lol

With that on record, I can only say Happy Trails and look forward to the build.

 

[Rwhat]

I am also doing the TC low gear replacement to 3.12

Not sure why you are doing Low TC gears if your just using it for established camp grounds.

 

[ppc]

Not sure why you are doing Low TC gears if your just using it for established camp grounds.

To haul all the Moosehead up the hills eh.

 

[Rwhat]

Well, it seems like he’s better off buying a Jeep unlimited Rubicon and throw some money at 4wheelparts.

 

[Mark W]

Well, it seems like he’s better off buying a Jeep unlimited Rubicon and throw some money at 4wheelparts.

In reality most "Overlanders" would be better off buying a minvan for the way the rigs actually get used. For the hardcore "Overlanders" there are a lot of AWD minivan choices out there.

Mark...