A '68 FJ40 Eng. Bay...With Exceptions (1 Viewer)

[68ToyCruiser]

I'm back in SoCal to take a closer look at what I bought a 2-3 weeks ago. It's a 1968 Toyota FJ40 for sure, but it seems some liberties have been taken inside the engine compartment.
Being a newbie in this forum, and with FJ 40's in general I want to share some pics of my engine bay. One thing I've noticed on other's engine is the embossed valve cover with the name TOYOTA across the top.
The coil looks like it dates back to the factory, but the yellow spark plug wires look after market. The fuel pump doesn't work so I have an electric fuel pump in it's place.
I hope the accompanying photos will help some knowledgeable members give me some idea of what I have.
Thanks,
Bob

 

[shawnfj40]

You have a F engine with a header and aftermarket air cleaner. Valve covers for the F motor were stamped steel and the only markings were with decals.

 

[Tancruiser]

That carb does not look stock but more importantly how dose she run.

 

[shawnfj40]

It does look like a a ford carb.

 

[68ToyCruiser]

Not too confident in giving it a good road test just yet, much less a "field" test, but my buddy drove it to his shop at 45-50mph. I'll look for part number on carb.

 

[Living in the Past]

That is not a 68 engine. Probably from a 72 or 73. Oil fill was a separate tube not on the valve cover on a 68 F145. The intake manifold was a lot wider. Oil filter was a replaceable canister not a spin-on filter.

 

[lc69hunter]

I see it still has the vacuum actuated 4wd. I ran with that for years before moving it to the floor because I needed the space on the firewall for other things.

 

[65swb45]

I see welded air injection tubes, so my guess would be a 1973 engine.

I've seen enough engine fires from open element air cleaners to steer clear of them. If you're not 100%confident in that carb, I wouldn't even test drive it without making some provisions for the air cleaner.

You can cut some tin to make a sleeve around the element and add a snorkel to allow entry without exposing the whole element. @Land Cruiser Junky did that with his v-8. Doesn't allow for as much air flow, but it's a lot safer.

Or you could convert back to stock. I have all the parts.

P.S. I told you the filler cap would be threaded.

 

[65swb45]

PPS: nothing confirms that the F oiling system is HVLP like having ordinary hose and hose clamps on your oil lines!

 

[65swb45]

PPPS: Is that alternator wire really as close to the header as it looks?

 

[68ToyCruiser]

I see it still has the vacuum actuated 4wd. I ran with that for years before moving it to the floor because I needed the space on the firewall for other things.

Yes, we found that out when we locked the front hubs and still wouldn't go into 4 wheel drive. We saw the "vacuum actuator" on the firewall and traced a cable coming from it that went to the dash and actuated it by either pulling or pushing on the knob (I forget).

 

[68ToyCruiser]

PPPS: Is that alternator wire really as close to the header as it looks?

The wiring is a mess, Mark, and I told you I was planning on running steel fuel lines. I don't plan on driving it much until we get this nuances taken care of. I want to find out why the fuel pump doesn't work. I don't mind the electric fuel pump for now. I don't understand your major concern with exposed element air breather, but if it is not a Toyota carb, I'll need to find out what it is.

 

[4Cruisers]

What's the serial number on the engine? It's stamped on a flat on the block just to the rear of the distributor and dipstick. See Post #373 on Page 19 of this thread 2F serial number info... to get an idea of the production date of your engine.

 

[65swb45]

The wiring is a mess, Mark, and I told you I was planning on running steel fuel lines. I don't plan on driving it much until we get this nuances taken care of. I want to find out why the fuel pump doesn't work. I don't mind the electric fuel pump for now. I don't understand your major concern with exposed element air breather, but if it is not a Toyota carb, I'll need to find out what it is.

If you've been at this as long as I have, and seen engine fires caused or accelerated by open element air cleaners, you might begin to understand my concern.

I posted up a story some years ago , probably on a Pismo thread, about an open element engine fire I contributed a fire extinguisher to. We subsequently kicked the guy out of our club. I handed him a bill for $12 for recharging my extinguisher and he refused to pay it. Said 'I didn't ask you for your extinguisher and I didn't personally use it.'

 

[Living in the Past]

I see welded air injection tubes, so my guess would be in a 1973 engine.

I've seen enough engine fires from open element air cleaners to steer clear of them. If you're not 100%confident in that carb, I wouldn't even test drive it without making some provisions for the air cleaner.

You can cut some tin to make a sleeve around the element and add a snorkel to allow entry without exposing the whole element. @Land Cruiser Junky did that with his v-8. Doesn't allow for as much air flow, but it's a lot safer.

Or you could convert back to stock. I have all the parts.

P.S. I told you the filler cap would be threaded.

Curious about the air rail. My 68 has plugs in the air rail. @lcwizard had a 68 or 69 FJ55 that had the pump. Was 73 the first year the pump was standard and was common to when removed to weld the tubes?

Had one of the air cleaner fires back in the early eighties. Holley carb back fired and caught the oil coated foam filter on fire. Lucky other than paint the only casualty was one washer nozzle. I used the top piece of a stock air cleaner and sheet metal to adapt a factoy air cleaner to a Holley. Later located a correct one barrel carburator. Also dumped the header in favor of the stock exhaust manifold. Lost performance on the highway but can crawl up hills down to 400 RPM.

 

[Land Cruiser Junky]

You can cut some tin to make a sleeve around the element and add a snorkel to allow entry without exposing the whole element. @Land Cruiser Junky did that with his v-8. Doesn't allow for as much air flow, but it's a lot safer.

After wrapping the outside of the air filter housing and adding 2 snorkels, I used a smaller filter that made a good connection at the top and bottom but had about 1.5" of space around the outside of the filter for better air flow.

 

[Rusty 72]

but if it is not a Toyota carb, I'll need to find out what it is.

It's a Ford/motorcraft 2100 carb. Tag on top should have numbers on it. Can find out what it came off from that.

 

[68ToyCruiser]

It's a Ford/motorcraft 2100 carb. Tag on top should have numbers on it. Can find out what it came off from that.

The carburetor is an Autoline general purpose carburetor part # C 833. It has a separate black spacer/adapter.

 

[68ToyCruiser]

What's the serial number on the engine? It's stamped on a flat on the block just to the rear of the distributor and dipstick. See Post #373 on Page 19 of this thread 2F serial number info... to get an idea of the production date of your engine.

The number stamped on the block is : F 415351. As near as I can gather, it was built on or about November, 1972. If It is an F2, would it be stamped F2?

 

[Living in the Past]

The number stamped on the block is : F 415351. As near as I can gather, it was built on or about November, 1972. If It is an F2, would it be stamped F2?

Serial # would start with 2F if it was a 2F. Oil filter on the late Fee engine the thru 3F were on the passenger's side of the block.