A 100 is expensive and a labor of love (MUDD appreciation thread) (1 Viewer)

OwnerCS

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I'm sure everyone is tired of the subject, but the thing that happened to me with this 100 series purchase is roughly 5 weeks after I purchased it, the pandemic sent my normal 5 days 45-hour workweek to become 6.5 days and well over 60 hours. This started during the discovery part of baselining, so it was an hour here and an hour there and simple jobs seemed to take forever. Now I can't finish the build because the parts that I ordered from companies based in Australia are not being shipped to the US like last year. I'm having to substitute some parts into my suspension list because they are the only ones available just to finish the build.
 
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The long and short of it is that we love the vehicle, how it's built, how it performs and how it feels underfoot when well maintained at whatever expense input we choose. Everytime I hop into a new or newer vehicle I can't wait to get back to my cruiser. Anything else feels like a POS in comparison; a 21 year old vehicle that I wouldn't trade for anything. I can drive over sh#t whenever, I have great visibility and the rig owns the road at 75mph cruising under full load. It's never left me stranded, what with all the PM! It's also close friends with all the gas stations.:) 'Oh What a Feeling' used to be Toyota's tagline I believe....
 
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Still less expensive than a Land Rover... which I dropped $4k (oil change, brakes, vacuum pump, coolant crossover valve) into in its final month before the final death spiral that was going to cost minimum $8k (head gasket) or $30k (new engine after head gasket didn’t fix it)... *only* spent a total of $10k in maintenance in 3 yrs. I’m looking forward to the cost burden of an LX!
 
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Missouri
Still less expensive than a Land Rover... which I dropped $4k (oil change, brakes, vacuum pump, coolant crossover valve) into in its final month before the final death spiral that was going to cost minimum $8k (head gasket) or $30k (new engine after head gasket didn’t fix it)... *only* spent a total of $10k in maintenance in 3 yrs. I’m looking forward to the cost burden of an LX!
And you have the user name to prove it
 
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Charlotte
T
Man...you made me do it. I tried to recall what I have done and recorded what I consider the bare minimum to keep my 100 going.

1999 100 series was purchased in 2015 with 246,000 miles from the original owners widow. Had a stack of maintenance records from the Toyota dealer up to 230,000 miles, when I assume the original owner passed away and his son started driving the 100. Purchase price was $6,500. As of this posting I have put 95,000 miles on the Cruiser.
555 Ball Joints
$179.00​
Toyota Steering Rack
$480.07​
Toyota Shocks
$176.76​
Denso Ignition Coils
$430.24​
Toyota MAF
$97.53​
Denso Spark Plugs
$68.64​
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
$41.73​
Toyota Denso Re-manufactured Alternator
$282.46​
Toyota CV Axles
$809.60​
Toyota Hub Flanges
$104.92​
Toyota Rear Upper Control Arms
$307.88​
SPC Rear Lower Control Arms
$249.95​
Timken and Koyo Wheel Bearings
$126.80​
Denso O2 Sensor
$43.43​
Toyota Rear Driveshaft
$349.31​
Aisin Timing Belt Kit
$167.81​
Aisin Fan Clutch
$84.78​
Toyota Radiator
$463.04​
Toyota Brake Booster Assembly
$2,479.26​
Toyota Denso Starter
$168.68​

And the total? $7,111.89 All labor done in my garage, by me, so there are no labor costs. This doesn't include preventative maintenance items like the heater tees, radiator hoses, serpentine belt, 4 bearing repacks, two sets of tires, the ever ending oil change supply for the motor/trans/tcase/diffs or any mods.

Dear lord, please don't let my wife find this :doh:
This list is like when a guy feels guilty about being a pack a day smokers finds out that his friend smokes 3 a day.

Good for you my friend, I bet your truck runs like a dream now.
 

87warrior

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
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This list is like when a guy feels guilty about being a pack a day smokers finds out that his friend smokes 3 a day.

Good for you my friend, I bet your truck runs like a dream now.
Outside of front suspension bushings (passenger side UCA has started to creak), I should be set until 410k miles when the timing belt will need replaced again. I am hopeful the new steering rack will hold out to 500k miles.
 
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Round Rock, TX
I like this thread, and share some of your "priorities". I've never counted (don't need evidence the wife can get a hold of) but I guess I have $30K+ into my '99 UZJ100, which I've owned and daily driven since 2007 without any major issues (logging 150K+ miles since). Judging by the selling price of similar UZJ100s on places like Bring-a-Trailer, I think I can sell mine for about what I have in it or close to it. Amazing! I've enjoyed every minute I've driven, wheeled and tinkered on the old girl and look forward to many more years of enjoyment.

Melon hunting.jpg
 
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DC
my wife jokingly calls it the u$j100

it’s not that bad for a 22 year old vehicle. She just doesn’t have any other reference points other than a much newer Subaru that was a lemon and my fj62 (which gets more $). I just remind her to be thankful that my hobby cars aren’t German or British 😂
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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If you are referencing my above list, I assure you what I listed was absolutely necessary for repairs of a failed or failing part over 5 years and nearly 100k miles.

It gets even more exciting after 300k miles.

I think he was referencing your list. You listed a lot of items that have rebuild kits, for example.

It's not lost on anyone that there is a cost to actually rebuilding that component in time, energy, and there's the cost component to the kits.

CV, master cylinder assembly, alternator, driveshaft, starter, etc. have options that don't include the full assembly.

If the goal is MINIMUM to keep it running, you could have also gone with aftermarket components which many successfully do.

Still less expensive than a Land Rover... which I dropped $4k (oil change, brakes, vacuum pump, coolant crossover valve) into in its final month before the final death spiral that was going to cost minimum $8k (head gasket) or $30k (new engine after head gasket didn’t fix it)... *only* spent a total of $10k in maintenance in 3 yrs. I’m looking forward to the cost burden of an LX!

This is a bad comparison, people with money to burn buy land/range rovers, lunatics who WANT to burn money buy land cruisers.
 
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IThis is a bad comparison, people with money to burn buy land/range rovers, lunatics who WANT to burn money buy land cruisers.

Well, I neither have nor want to burn lots of money. I am hopeful that most the money I do spend on it will go to improve the truck rather than simply keep it on the road (or just going towards figuring out what bigger issue is the real problem)!
 

87warrior

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
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I think he was referencing your list. You listed a lot of items that have rebuild kits, for example.

It's not lost on anyone that there is a cost to actually rebuilding that component in time, energy, and there's the cost component to the kits.

CV, master cylinder assembly, alternator, driveshaft, starter, etc. have options that don't include the full assembly.

If the goal is MINIMUM to keep it running, you could have also gone with aftermarket components which many successfully do.
There is some truth to your point. I always explore the aftermarket and rebuild options first. The 'bare minimum' of safety and reliability can mean something different to different folks.

The alternator and starter were no name aftermarket parts that had failed. They did not look like the OEM parts I replaced them with and wasn't sure rebuilding those were an option. The OE rear driveshaft needed new splines in the slip joint as it was loose causing a wobble and vibration. An aftermarket driveshaft could have been built by Tom Wood/Coast/Adams/HAD. The only local driveline shop wouldn't touch the LC shaft for new slip joint splines, they want to build an entire shaft. Before I found the worn slip joint, I was going to use Spicer u-joints to replace the loose OE joints. I could have replaced the outer stubs on the CV's vs the entire assembly at 2/3 the price of the entire assembly, but aftermarket was not an option. I was torn on what to do with the brake booster assembly. It failed at 320k miles. I would have rebuilt the master cylinder, replaced the accumulator and got the motor rebuilt at about 2/3 the price of a new assembly.

I don't believe $7k was too much of a price to pay over 5 years and 100k miles on a vehicle that has exceeded 300k miles. My brother-in-law purchased his low mileage LX for what I now have into my LC. He is going to replace the rack next week. All of my big ticket items are done and should hold me over to 500k miles :)
 

D21FJ60

I'll get to it
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The long and short of it is that we love the vehicle, how it's built, how it performs and how it feels underfoot when well maintained at whatever expense input we choose. Everytime I hop into a new or newer vehicle I can't wait to get back to my cruiser. Anything else feels like a POS in comparison; a 21 year old vehicle that I wouldn't trade for anything. I can drive over sh#t whenever, I have great visibility and the rig owns the road at 75mph cruising under full load. It's never left me stranded, what with all the PM! It's also close friends with all the gas stations.:) 'Oh What a Feeling' used to be Toyota's tagline I believe....
Exactly. My 99 needs a ton of work- steering rack, suspension, new tires wouldn't hurt, yadda yadda yadda.
Still drives better than our '16 pilot with 1/3 the miles.
Despite not having working AC and a mystery exhaust smell every now and then, i take the cruiser every chance i get.
 
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Still less expensive than a Land Rover... which I dropped $4k (oil change, brakes, vacuum pump, coolant crossover valve) into in its final month before the final death spiral that was going to cost minimum $8k (head gasket) or $30k (new engine after head gasket didn’t fix it)... *only* spent a total of $10k in maintenance in 3 yrs. I’m looking forward to the cost burden of an LX!

What flavor of Rover are we talking here? I ran two DII's from late 99 till I sold the last one in August of 18. Dealer prices are insane! I'd been quoted similar figures in the past from the local dealer here. I've done two full engine swaps and neither cost me more than $1200. Head gaskets with fresh heads can be done for under $1k and a few hundred bucks if your original heads are straight. Of course this is assuming you're turning the wrench yourself.

Back on topic...I've been extremely impressed with the ease of ownership of the 100. All I've had to do to mine so far has been replace leaking power steering hoses between the pump and reservoir (very cheap with Gates hose), heater T's and a new starter earlier this summer. I do need to replace the timing belt as I can find no documentation of it ever being changed and the radiator is turning brown. Still need to do diff and transfer case fluids also. I think I've spent less than a grand on this truck since I bought it.

I've got a list of smaller things I'd like to address and/ or modify, but the "have to" expensive as have been minimal. I'm into my rig for under $10k still.
It's very easy to start reading on these forums and go wild with "elective surgeries". Thankfully my wife keeps me in check!
 
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What flavor of Rover are we talking here? I ran two DII's from late 99 till I sold the last one in August of 18. Dealer prices are insane! I'd been quoted similar figures in the past from the local dealer here. I've done two full engine swaps and neither cost me more than $1200. Head gaskets with fresh heads can be done for under $1k and a few hundred bucks if your original heads are straight. Of course this is assuming you're turning the wrench yourself.

Back on topic...I've been extremely impressed with the ease of ownership of the 100. All I've had to do to mine so far has been replace leaking power steering hoses between the pump and reservoir (very cheap with Gates hose), heater T's and a new starter earlier this summer. I do need to replace the timing belt as I can find no documentation of it ever being changed and the radiator is turning brown. Still need to do diff and transfer case fluids also. I think I've spent less than a grand on this truck since I bought it.

I've got a list of smaller things I'd like to address and/ or modify, but the "have to" expensive as have been minimal. I'm into my rig for under $10k still.
It's very easy to start reading on these forums and go wild with "elective surgeries". Thankfully my wife keeps me in check!
It was a 2011 LR4. We had everything done at a local LR indie shop in south Denver. Not dealer prices but not cheap. An oil change, rear brakes and vacuum pump three weeks before the final drive cost $3200. After it broke down, the shop said they needed to fix the coolant crossover pipe ($800) before determining it was at least a head gasket if not more and that was $8200 (head gaskets + Timing chain and tensioner + labor). We had replaced control arms, had rear gate issues and were not going to gamble it was just the head gasket and was not more problems in the engine. Ironically, when we bought it we found out it had a new engine at 67,000 (we bought at 85k) because of same issue. We figured we had a diamond in the rough, but we just had the typical rough go with a LR. No warning (temp sensors suck) and car just died after apparently losing coolant (yes, it was 100° that day hence why we were heading to mountains). Our friend around the corner has an 80-series and we are happy to finally join the LC/LX community after our LR detour. BTW our other car is a 2010 Prius with which we’ve had zero issues. Gotta love Toyota!
 
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Sacramento area, CA
Yep pretty expensive. Maybe a new vehicle is what you should have, nothing goes wrong with them...
2020 Land Cruiser $90,000
2020 Land Rover Defender $55,000
2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon $40,000
2021 Bronco $40,000

Me, I am pretty happy with my built 2000 LC, both performance and cost.
 
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Bought mine for $8200 after it was listed at a Toyota dealer for $12k w/ 247k. They felt the need to “give it a once over” and suggested $5800 in services. I said no, so they adjusted the price. 18 months and 9k miles later, I’ve replaced; front broken diff w/ ARB and OBA, 555ball joints, new OEM CVs, replaced all fluids except tranny, new KO2s, new bearings and grease. Did all the work myself except rebuilding the front diff. ( still installed it). My baseline was fluids, heater Ts, and tires. All in I’m just over $4k in parts.
 

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