A 100 is expensive and a labor of love (MUDD appreciation thread) (1 Viewer)

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or, the better way to say it is IT IS MORE EXPENSIVE than I thought. even more if you dont do some of the wrenching yourself.

One of the parameters I had for buying was "major maintenance" recorded.

The carfax stated TB/WP done at 180k, front and rear brakes done as well among other things. The seller even had a PPI done at a Toyota Dealership. My seller was the 3rd owner and took it in as trade. The PPI was his from buying the car from 2nd owner who had it for about 100k miles.

I suspect the 3rd owner really wanted to keep it, but shortly later i bought it, I found it had the dreaded VSC Traction control problems that made me ALMOST sell it myself...
until I found the fix here on mudd. VSC OFF switch install. here was a vid of the issue:

The alternator died on our first major trip on the LC. $600 at a mechanic shop in Savanah GA.
AND right after I got the rig back from the mechanic, I had the immobilizer problems. Once again mudd came through: EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470

Got us home by jumping the efi relay and ordered medtro kit.

A month later the starter died and followed a thread here to DIY fix it myself. Thanks mudd! (cant find it at the moment).

This was the first 2 months of ownership. My wife is scared to do long trips in the 100 because of these.

since then, Ive done:

necessities:
> Snorkel
> Driver Full Front IFS Rebuild : CV Axle, Hub and everything in it, Wheel Bearings and the like.
> Repack Passenger Bearings + New CV Axle
> Inner and Outer Tie rods
> FULL Front Brake Rebuilds ( disc, caliper, pads, brake lines, flush)
> Rear Brake Rebuild (Disc, pads, ebrake, brake lines, flush)
> 2 inch Ironman Lift + Aftermarket UCA
> Change Rear Medium Ironman to Heavy 2863
> Aftermarket double din install, new amp
> New ECU computer with 2 new master keys (only had valet keys)

not maintenance:
> Dual Battery System
> dometic Fridge
> 33 inch tires, then to 34s, now going to 35s
> rear Timbren Extended Bumpstops for 35s
> TJM front bumper
> Wilco spare tire carrier


these are just what I remember from the top of my head. my 7500 initial rig is now past 3 times that in total cost in mods and maintenance (in 1.5years of ownership)...

BUT I feel like it will last another 20 years and 300k more miles, I daily drive this rig 70miles roundtrip each day.
This is not a classic for the feint of heart or wallet, but it is easy to work on if you are semi-ok with tools AND the information held here on mudd.
 
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Joined
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Haha. I literally replaced the exact same part on my 2000 LC the first year I had. Starter was too time consuming for me, had a shop replace it instead.
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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If you had to take it down to what you actually needed to do to keep it on the road reliably I think you'd be surprised by how cheap it was to keep running.

Repack bearings instead of replace. Rebuild CV's instead of replace. Suspension left stock. Radio left stock. Caliper rebuild vs replace. Buy an vehicle that comes with the master key.

No doubt the immobilizer, starter, electronics scares are a real thing and stopped it from running. But it sounds like you could have kept a few grand in your pocket but chose to get it ready for another 100k.
 

Kabanstva

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Any used high mileage car or older car is going to be a money pit more times than not. Nobody is "baselining" or doing all the maintenance on a car they're thinking of selling. You would have to get stupid lucky to find one that needs little to no work. Plus most people that sell used cars like an old 100 series are sketchy and will either play dumb and be ignorant when you point out everything you think it needs to be 100% or they will lie about stuff like "accident free", "no paint work", "grandma driven" etc. If you're not paying TOP dollar, do not except a ready-to-go vehicle. Be prepared to spend a few grand to get it where you want it.

I noticed any CLEAN used cars I've come across, be it a Land Cruiser, or a Toyota Camry, the nice ones that truly are free of accidents/crappy paint work, etc, cost almost double the average price of the comparable year "used and abused" models. You're either paying a premium up front or buying the cheaper, more abused car and spending your time and money down the line to make it nice again. Either way you're gonna pay.

Plenty of people bought ragged out 100s and dumped thousands into them just to get them road worthy when they could've just spend more and got a cleaner, lower mileage truck initially.
 
Joined
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Owning any 20 year old vehicle with hundreds of thousands of miles can be expensive, but its not just 100 series. The difference is 100 series owners stare at these threads on mud all day and panic fix parts before they are even broken.

I have seen 100 series go well over 200kmiles with little to no maintenance.

Maybe I am the only one who thinks you don't need to put a lift kit from and accessorize your truck from bumper to bumper to make this truck capable of 95% of trails. I see way to many threads of new 100 series owners, first post is always "what is the biggest tire or advice on lift kit"
 

MongooseGA

Learns things the hard way
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Owning any 20 year old vehicle with hundreds of thousands of miles can be expensive, but its not just 100 series. The difference is 100 series owners stare at these threads on mud all day and panic fix parts before they are even broken.

I have seen 100 series go well over 200kmiles with little to no maintenance.

Maybe I am the only one who thinks you don't need to put a lift kit from and accessorize your truck from bumper to bumper to make this truck capable of 95% of trails. I see way to many threads of new 100 series owners, first post is always "what is the biggest tire or advice on lift kit"

Man, you are spot-on. Reading through the forums, which is a concentrated location for threads about problems to begin with, will absolutely create hypochondriacs.
 
Joined
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Man, you are spot-on. Reading through the forums, which is a concentrated location for threads about problems to begin with, will absolutely create hypochondriacs.

And then the hypochondriacs get together with the OCDs and the hard core off-roaders to lament that "these things are expensive". When you come to a forum like this for advice you should keep in mind that the internet loves to spend your money. I think it's a manifestation of the old adage that misery loves company. I pissed away a bunch of money - you should too.
 

MongooseGA

Learns things the hard way
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And then the hypochondriacs get together with the OCDs and the hard core off-roaders to lament that "these things are expensive". When you come to a forum like this for advice you should keep in mind that the internet loves to spend your money. I think it's a manifestation of the old adage that misery loves company. I pissed away a bunch of money - you should too.

"He who expires with the most s***, wins"
 
Joined
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Salt Lake City, UT
On my last 80, I definitely spent too much time around here finding out what all the ‘preventative maintenance’ stuff is that should be addressed. Which led to me, at 140k, replacing full coolant system, full brake system, all fluids, all belts, and many other things I don’t care too remember. JUST IN CASE. Meanwhile, my uncle buys a clean, 1 owner ‘96 with full dealer records with 180k, and proceeds to drive it to 340k (and counting), with nothing but oil changes. Lesson. Learned.

I did replace the heater T’s and timing belt in my Hundy though. I’m not a barbarian.
 

GTV

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Si'ahl
"Expensive" is subjective.

As directed by everyone here on mud I bought the newest, lowest mileage, best maintained vehicle I could find (and paid a lot for it). Immediately I had AHC issues (luckily I was saved by another 100 series enthusiast, no cost other than destroying a pair of tires) and then the brake booster s*** the bed within the first 2,000 miles to the tune of $772. Repairing the PO's ham-fistedness has got me quickly adding to that figure even though the baselining was 100% done just 40k miles ago. I was hoping that once I have it sorted out I can keep the costs under $300 a month or so but I'm already doubting if that's possible. So f*** you guys, it's all your fault :flipoff2:
 

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