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Yes, I'd say you can almost if not fully populate your connector since most of these connections will be pretty universal to whatever you get.
Yes, I'd say you can almost if not fully populate your connector since most of these connections will be pretty universal to whatever you get.
I used this great diagram @PabloCruise put together:
All of the connections highlighted in orange will be needed. In order for your antenna to go up and down, you'll need to have it wired in the connector, where it connects on the new head unit will depend on whether it has a separate antenna trigger wire or not. Mine didn't, so I had to tie it together with the amplifier trigger.
Don't forget to pry up the little strain relief on your new connector before you insert the pins, then snap it back down when you're done. It clamps the insulation and helps prevent the pins from being pulled back out.
Once I crimped everything together with my new head unit's harness, I also tested continuity on each wire with my multimeter to be sure everything had a good solid connection before putting it in the truck, saves lots of frustration.
No problem, I learned about those from someone else on here too. I'd never seen one like that before, Toyota...they thought of everything.
Your antenna function will be modified. When the aftermarket HU powers up, your antenna will extend to the "stubby" position at minimum (higher if you left it there via the dash switch). The function to only, automatically extend the antenna while listening to the radio on the stock HU disappears.
Now THAT is quotable, full stop.
Yes, the way it works is whenever that antenna wire on pin 5 of the connector gets power, the antenna will extend. When power is cut, it will retract. The stock HU would power it on when selecting radio, and off when selecting any other input. Since most newer vehicles have gone away from power antennas, many aftermarket HUs don't have a separate antenna trigger wire. In that case, it usually gets wired to the amplifier trigger wire, so it will work almost exactly the same way as factory, except that it will be extended at all times the unit is on, and will retract when the unit is off, regardless if source is radio, CD, tape, etc.
I remember making that - good times!Yes, I'd say you can almost if not fully populate your connector since most of these connections will be pretty universal to whatever you get.
I used this great diagram @PabloCruise put together:
All of the connections highlighted in orange will be needed. In order for your antenna to go up and down, you'll need to have it wired in the connector, where it connects on the new head unit will depend on whether it has a separate antenna trigger wire or not. Mine didn't, so I had to tie it together with the amplifier trigger.
Don't forget to pry up the little strain relief on your new connector before you insert the pins, then snap it back down when you're done. It clamps the insulation and helps prevent the pins from being pulled back out.
Once I crimped everything together with my new head unit's harness, I also tested continuity on each wire with my multimeter to be sure everything had a good solid connection before putting it in the truck, saves lots of frustration.
I had similar thoughts while reading, but was trying to "filter" my thoughts...
