99 LX470 build up for an around the world trip! (1 Viewer)

[yukon]

Hello all, I figured I would start a thread detailing the maintenance and build of my new to me 1999 LX470. The goal of this build is to end up with a vehicle capable and comfortable for an around the world trip that I have been dreaming of since completing the Mongol Rally in 2017 and thinking "that was fun, but I can do it better".

I have been searching lightly for a cruiser for a year or so, when all of the sudden a rust free beauty pops on in Arizona. Cali car, moved to AZ, enough scratches to make it affordable but NO rust. Having wrenched on Michigan cars my whole life all I really wanted was something rust free; I can fix anything as long as it moves without a torch.

Went down and checked it out, needed a touch more work than I expected. I initially walked on it over $500, but the guy called me the next morning and I got it for $7000 with 138xxx miles on it, and brand new tires! Lucky for me because I had no way to get the 8 hours back to Colorado if I hadn't bought it.

Look at that happy new owner!


It drove like a dream all the way back to Colorado where I am pretty sure I showed it its first snow.

And now I've put it in temporary storage while I get some maintenance and mods done.

The goals of this build are:

1. Reliability. Do all maintenance and mods right the first time, cut no corners. Everything is done knowing 40,000+ miles of washboard are in the future. This also means making sure everything can come apart again in the bush if needed. Also means keeping everything as close to stock as possible, Mr. Toyota is smarter than me, and did it the way he did for a reason.

2. Comfort. That's a lot of miles, better not be miserable.

3. Practicality. I'm going to be living out of it, does it really need all the farkles (do overlanders say farkles, or is that just an ADV biker term?). Obviously some farkles are needed, but I probably don't need solar panels and a hot water shower system (well... showers ARE nice....).

4. Fuel economy. Aux tank is in the plans , but shaving 500 pounds, and not having an RTT can add 2 or 3 MPG, and that translates into more dollars for food, fuel, and not sleeping in the back of a car.

5. To be filled in at a later date to make me look really smart and forward thinking.

6. Stock looking-ish. I don't know how I'll accomplish this, its going to look like a gringo rig no matter what. Basically try and keep the cab looking stock so the thing doesn't get stolen.



I already have a partial build planned on it.

So far I've already ordered
Tough Dog suspension from Trail Tailor
40 gallon aux tank from Long Range Automotive
Lou's Projector upgrade
Audio upgrade

Pending are
ARB Bar with lights and winch
BIO Rear bumper
ASFIR alu skids
Dual battery setup
Lockers? $$$
Rear camper setup that I have to plan and build
10+ gallons of water storage with some type of filtration system


Ok that's enough for this first post. I'll follow up with a second one with more pics that are on my phone.

Feel free to chime in with thoughts!

 

[yukon]

So it's way easier to post photos directly from your phone than to transfer them from phone to laptop, but it's was harder to type on the phone. Huh, oh well.

Anyways, first mod was to upgrade the audio. I went with DB6502 front and DB652 (I think) in the rear.

It was actually really easy,no drilling or cutting required. I removed the panels, removed the speaker boxes and screwed the new ones in.

I tapped into the stock harness for wiring, and so I can keep the stock head unit for now.

By saving the factory connection I was able to solder the wires to the new speakers and use a lot of existing stuff

They're marine and UTV rated, so hopefully they won't die if I sink it in some water, or choke them with dust.

Sounds better, good upgrade, cost 200 bucks. Not terrible.

 

[yukon]

Last night I finally got the vehicle up on jack stands and started poking around to see what maintenance needs doing. I rented a shop space about an honest 40 minutes from the house, but its way better than wrenching in the snow. Plus is covered and lighted!

Really hoping I don't need a new steering rack, but... Surprise! Pretty sure I do.

Hard to see possibly, but there is a small pool of fluid in the bottom of the rack.damnit.

Someone tell me that stop leak is the proper tool to fix that, please? Ordering a new rack later today I suppose. As well as some ball joints and TREs from Cruiser outfitters. How fun!!

At least the hubs look normal. The pass side has some play in it though when you grabbed the wheel. I ran out of time and calories before I could disassemble more

So, do I need a new rack?

 

[geanes]

Nice LX. If you're serious about planning an "around the world" trip, I'd add lockers both front and rear. The pre-2000 models had "weak" 2-pinion front diffs. I don't really think it's that big an issue and frankly overinflated (never had any problem with my 98 in 3+ years of hard off-roading). But, you don't want a broken diff in the 3rd world. The LSD rear is fine IMO, but I don't get in the deep muck like you're probably going to find. Don't forget to extend ALL of the breathers: front and rear diffs, transfer case and transmission. You want ALL of those to be well above water line. Additionally, you'll want 2 spares and a tire repair kit.

I saw no mention of a roof rack. For those long expeditions, I'd think that would be of paramount importance. You gain a TON of storage space for boxes, 2nd spare, jerry cans, etc. Sure, it adds top weight. But, you're not going to be going 80mph. If you want a solid full-length rack, I'd whole-heartedly recommend the Gamiviti with the 8 tower option (maximizes dynamic load capability) with his side-ladder.

Finally......lights......LOTS of lights. Forward facing driving beams on the bumper, a lightbar on the roof, lights on the side and rear of the roof and rock lights. You'll be in areas where light will be a premium.

Here's my 98 LX for reference (IronMan front, BIOR rear, Gamiviti rack, OPOR sliders and lots of extra stuff)

 

[katit]

So, do I need a new rack?

You need to rebuild yours, but since it's not popular (to rebuild) - then yes, you need new one.
On my 195k LX stop leak seem to be helping, but I'm just buying time before I replace it. If you plan for 40k trip I'd definitely replace it along with many other things

 

[geanes]

Depending on the severity of the leak, you might be able to get away with some ATP205 added to the reservoir. Worked really well for me. However, in the case of an around the world trip, I'd replace with a new rack to be absolutely safe.

 

[yukon]

Nice LX. If you're serious about planning an "around the world" trip, I'd add lockers both front and rear. Don't forget to extend ALL of the breathers: front and rear diffs, transfer case and transmission. You want ALL of those to be well above water line. Additionally, you'll want 2 spares and a tire repair kit.

I saw no mention of a roof rack. For those long expeditions, I'd think that would be of paramount importance. You gain a TON of storage space for boxes, 2nd spare, jerry cans, etc. Sure, it adds top weight. But, you're not going to be going 80mph. If you want a solid full-length rack, I'd whole-heartedly recommend the Gamiviti with the 8 tower option (maximizes dynamic load capability) with his side-ladder.

Finally......lights......LOTS of lights. Forward facing driving beams on the bumper, a lightbar on the roof, lights on the side and rear of the roof and rock lights. You'll be in areas where light will be a premium.

Great call about the breathers, I'm adding that to my list.

As far as lockers, I know its the right choice, just hard to stomach the ~$3000 bill for them. We'll see how tax season goes, would be nice to get it done here as I'm really close to some good LC shops who can setup the diffs for me.

Roof rack. Again undecided, if I have more space, I'm hoping to build in lots of strage in the rear camper area. Weight is lower, and some constraints so I can't just bring everything. Also with the roof rack it removes the option to carry an RTT, which I still may do if I add a second person to the vehicle.

Second spare, I'm having an issue finding a bumper that can carrry a second spare. I love hte BIO rear (plus the price is great, and local). And the stock location will be taken by the aux tank.

Lights: Yes. just yes to all of that. Driving in the 3rd world at night is in a word: Terrifying.

 

[Ayune]

Omigod change those heater T’s.

DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important*

Today I replaced my Pipe T's for the heater hoses. This should be included in your 90k service, but most shops (even Toyota) usually don't do it. If your service was done at Slee, they are one of the few that do it. That should tell you something. It could leave you stranded and overheating...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[nukegoat]

I would focus on repair equipment and know-how. Patch tires, etc. What does the route look like?

 

[geanes]

Great call about the breathers, I'm adding that to my list.

As far as lockers, I know its the right choice, just hard to stomach the ~$3000 bill for them. We'll see how tax season goes, would be nice to get it done here as I'm really close to some good LC shops who can setup the diffs for me.

Roof rack. Again undecided, if I have more space, I'm hoping to build in lots of strage in the rear camper area. Weight is lower, and some constraints so I can't just bring everything. Also with the roof rack it removes the option to carry an RTT, which I still may do if I add a second person to the vehicle.

Second spare, I'm having an issue finding a bumper that can carrry a second spare. I love hte BIO rear (plus the price is great, and local). And the stock location will be taken by the aux tank.

Lights: Yes. just yes to all of that. Driving in the 3rd world at night is in a word: Terrifying.

You can still run an RTT on a full length rack with plenty of room for gear. I have used a Yakima MegaWarrior (they break down in the middle....I used one half mounted to the rack to carry several Rigid weatherproof boxes). Mike at BIOR might be able to due a dual-tire carrier for you. Give him a buzz and discuss. He's a super cool dude. If not, ARB absolutely offers a dual-tire carrier option as does Dissent.

 

[nukegoat]

You can still run an RTT on a full length rack with plenty of room for gear. I have used a Yakima MegaWarrior (they break down in the middle....I used one half mounted to the rack to carry several Rigid weatherproof boxes). Mike at BIOR might be able to due a dual-tire carrier for you. Give him a buzz and discuss. He's a super cool dude. If not, ARB absolutely offers a dual-tire carrier option as does Dissent.

View attachment 2148361

Ridgid cases ftw
I rock those too

 

[ajs]

You can still run an RTT on a full length rack with plenty of room for gear. I have used a Yakima MegaWarrior (they break down in the middle....I used one half mounted to the rack to carry several Rigid weatherproof boxes). Mike at BIOR might be able to due a dual-tire carrier for you. Give him a buzz and discuss. He's a super cool dude. If not, ARB absolutely offers a dual-tire carrier option as does Dissent.

I need that brisket sticker.

 

[whitenoise]

So far I've already ordered
Tough Dog suspension from Trail Tailor
40 gallon aux tank from Long Range Automotive
Lou's Projector upgrade
Audio upgrade

Pending are
ARB Bar with lights and winch
BIO Rear bumper
ASFIR alu skids
Dual battery setup
Lockers? $$$
Rear camper setup that I have to plan and build
10+ gallons of water storage with some type of filtration system

Have you calculated the additional weight from all of this stuff - you'll probably take up most of your 1250lb payload just with equipment? Is this built for solo or 2 people?

As a potential RTW traveller (congrats on being able to pull that off by the way) you need to be pragmatic about this. While I personally have not done a RTW trip, I have travelled in several parts of the world in different kinds of vehicles, none of which had these things - partly by choice and partly by necessity i.e. $$$ or time. I'm sure you can draw on your Mongol Rally experience in terms of minimalism, LOL. The amount of gnarly offroad trails you'll do is probably less than 2-3% of your total miles, and may be optional as well.

40 gallon aux tank from Long Range Automotive - That's an additional 370lbs of weight. Where are you traveling that you need almost a 1000 miles of range? Wouldn't their OEM tank replacement be sufficient?

ARB bar, lights and winch - There's lighter ways to mount additional lights. You should not be driving after twilight during a trip like this anyway but maybe unavoidable sometimes - HID retrofit should be plenty for that. Winch....now that is a personal choice depending on your mental makeup but IMO you'll be a lot more careful without a winch.

BIO Rear bumper - Consider something lighter, like a Wilco hitchgate, or even better, the OEM tire carrier.

Dual battery - Replace stock with deep cycle Gp 31 or 49, get the big alternator from 03+ or Sequoia, and add 100w of solar. Carry the best lithium jump pack you can find and charge it once a month to full capacity.

with these changes you likely don't need the aftermarket suspension either.

 

[flintknapper]

I'd definitely address the two pinion front diff issue (if you can call it that). A selectable locker up front would sure be nice. Rear wouldn't have to selectable right now if you wanted save money there, I believe there is one 'auto locker' available for it that will swap in place of the LSD.

Winch would be high on my list of things to add (with second battery). Some kind of reliable source for on-board air.

That steering rack needs to go....just replace it.

A compete set of the more common fuses and relays (including an immobilizer bypass) ought to be in your tool box.

I guess we don't need to tell you to replace your heater Tees...right away.

Obviously....you'll want to take along a couple of spare keys.

Make sure all your U-Joints are in good shape.

Besides fortifying the unit....try to think of the small (but easy to carry along) things that might leave you stranded. Don't pack things that you can't fix out in the field...or require tools that you won't have anyway. It's usually some small but important thing that ends up causing a problem (hoses, wiring, cam sensor, crank sensor, pulleys, etc).

 

[divemedic]

The best question asked here was; what is your planned route? The route should drive the vehicle build.

Other major questions not addressed, communication? Navigation? Tires (rims)? What type of external support are you planning? Traveling solo? Spares and tools?

 

[divemedic]

If I was planning something similar, I’d look to connect major cities every 7 days of travel. My route would be planned around 8 hours of driving with night driving eliminated as much as possible. Mileage may vary based on weather/terrain hence time goals vs mileage goals.

Basic truck goals on a 20 y/o 100, 100% up on all maintenance first this includes every soft line on the truck, new radiator and accessory components. Do the work yourself to learn and inventory actual tools needed. Bring spare 10mm’s. Good takeoffs used as spares.

Sheelmann drivers seat. Robust and simple suspension. Probably OME heavy 2.5” springs and Koni 90 shocks with a diff drop and adjustable UCA.

I’d do a 40gal replacement tank and 25 aux tank (I wouldn’t fill up both tanks all the way unless I actually needed a 1000 miles range. I’d fill 25 gallons of known good fuel in the aux tank for bad fuel emergencies and half fill the 20 gallon on the regular. Titrations fuel needs in thirds. I feel a second fuel filter is prudent.

Air bag compliant front bar with a pair of very good aux lights and a 10k comeup winch. Rear bar would have a single spare and I’d carry a carcass on the roof; tires probably Cooper ST Maxx in 255/85r16. Sliders yes, skids maybe.

Dual battery for sure; probably redarc isolator with solar supplement enough to power my electrical needs for 7 days without starting the truck.

For communication, for me, just two different sat phones and a basic global dual sim cell phone. I’d avoid hard mounted radios (ham, gmrs, uhf, etc...) they don’t help much unless in convoy, the antennas draw attention at boarder crossings, different countries have different common-use radios, and in some countries certain radios are illegal. Not worth it in my opinion.

Paper maps and two gps handhelds.

For recovery, enough shackles and straps to do a double line pull, and 4 maxtrax.

!!!! spare master key somewhere hidden on the truck !!!!

 

[Otis]

I'd definitely address the two pinion front diff issue (if you can call it that).

x2 on addressing the weak front diff... In over 30 years of wheeling Land Cruisers the front diff on my '99 LX470 is the only major component that I have broken on the trail. It broke climbing a small ledge in Moab when the wheel momentarily lost traction. The wheel barely spun before re-gaining traction and that was it... I was being easy on the truck and was not hammering the throttle. I would not trust the front diff in a '98-'99 for a trip like yours.

 

[yukon]

Lots of interesting replies, thanks for the input!

As far as the route, I don't know. Honestly I feel like with a good all around build a vehicle should be able to tackle any route, so that's what I'm building for. That said, I do have quite a knack for getting into more technical situations, so I lean a bit towards the more capable side with my builds.

The 40 gallon aux is excessive, but it was the same price and weight as the 24, so I figured why not. I don't have to fill it all the way.

Lockers will get added to the list. If I go lockers I may subtract the winch. That decision will get made once I get deeper into route planning. Pretty easy to add a winch.

Communications: Local SIM card, and a Garmin inReach mini. Should allow me to talk to whoever I need to.

I'm really hesitant to put stuff on the roof, theft being a primary concern. Its nice to be able to park wherever for however long and not worry that someone might be eyeing up your stuff.

 

[nukegoat]

Lots of interesting replies, thanks for the input!

As far as the route, I don't know. Honestly I feel like with a good all around build a vehicle should be able to tackle any route, so that's what I'm building for. That said, I do have quite a knack for getting into more technical situations, so I lean a bit towards the more capable side with my builds.

The 40 gallon aux is excessive, but it was the same price and weight as the 24, so I figured why not. I don't have to fill it all the way.

Lockers will get added to the list. If I go lockers I may subtract the winch. That decision will get made once I get deeper into route planning. Pretty easy to add a winch.

Communications: Local SIM card, and a Garmin inReach mini. Should allow me to talk to whoever I need to.

I'm really hesitant to put stuff on the roof, theft being a primary concern. Its nice to be able to park wherever for however long and not worry that someone might be eyeing up your stuff.

You definitely need a winch. Don't trade lockers for it.

 

[nukegoat]

Also, I recommend bulking up like a proud American before you head out. You're making this country look bad if you don't cross the border at 250-300lbs. Start pounding cheeseburgers like a man.