'99 LX 470 Steering issue (what did I do incorrectly?) (3 Viewers)

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YezusLX

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 28, 2021
Threads
5
Messages
650
Location
ATL Shawty/PCB
Readers Digest Version:
I had a massive blowout leak on the passenger side of the inner tie rod billow. R&R with reman rack, 555 tie rods, and OEM bushings with new bolts. 5 weeks later (today 07/03/22). Turning left out of the parking lot. The steering wheel rolls left with no problem, but the LX continues straight with a rightward drift. Yank the wheel hard left so as to avoid oncoming vehicle traffic LX begins to turn slowly left. Pulls hard to the right with torque steer upon small throttle application. Turn it around back to home base safely after a few tries. No noises, or CEL/DTC just a brief disappointing flash of my life. I did notice a small drip of a reddish-colored fluid under where hardlines meet the rack but cannot ID in the weather appears to be coolant but cannot confirm. Not viscous. Luckily it started raining before my cursing vocabulary got any better. Open to all ideas, suggestions, and ridicule.

Parts used:
442506005084
4551560010
9010514043 x4
9010514159 x2
9010514121 x2
4436060210
555 Tie Rod ends x 2

2 quarts of new OEM fluid was used and filled to just under the max line of the reservoir (No bubbles after filling, running, and moving lock to lock)
new hoses and OEM gaskets
junkyard OEM PS pump and pulley
Indy alignment



TLDR: Steering no worky good. Help!

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Update 07/05/22:
Small drip (one or two drips then nothing) only seems to occur when the engine is running. Potentially residual fluid from rack swap? Still no other noises per other family members. All bolts were tight and secure. Visually appears passenger front tire seems to be aimed inward slightly. Could be the slope of the parking lot. Steering wheel slightly left when wheels are straight. I am beginning to suspect I somehow knocked alignment out making that initial turn to the left. Beyond that, I am at a loss.
 
Did you get it aligned after replacing the rack? The '99 is not drive by wire so maybe the refurb rack has an internal issue? Does the steering continue to have issues after the original incident or did it seem to work correctly after that?
 
I have not driven since this incident took place. LX was aligned by the indy shop after installation. LX drove fine for about 100 mile round trip after alignment. Then sat for a few days and this occurred. Has me a little gunshy at the moment after the small heart attack.
 
Just took a look now. It appears the steering shaft has backed off the rack binding with something I cannot tell exactly what at the moment.

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Not really sure how this has backed off. Bolts are tight. So, I may not have had it seated it entirely or the grooves on the existing shaft are stripped. I have not yet taken it apart as there is no shade right now and it is dangerously hot in the parking lot. The old rack was a disaster so it is possible I suppose. Maybe @2001LC has an idea? In your expert opinion do you have any idea what I messed up here?
 
Who remanufactured the rack?
 
Not really sure to be honest. I picked it up off the classifieds here. It was in a Toyota reman box. and was still in the original plastic when I received it. I had just purchased the truck from another mud member and the rack blew out on the way home from purchase ruining the ps pump. Needless to say, having the truck for nearly seven months and not being able to use it has been shall we say frustrating?
 
Not really sure to be honest. I picked it up off the classifieds here. It was in a Toyota reman box. and was still in the original plastic when I received it. I had just purchased the truck from another mud member and the rack blew out on the way home from purchase ruining the ps pump. Needless to say, having the truck for nearly seven months and not being able to use it has been shall we say frustrating?
I am sorry to see you struggle with this. Moat Cruisers are well-behaved but yours look like it has had some neglect in the past.

Having had my LX being inoperable for almost 6 months last year, while I saw the whole summer pass me by was rough.

Hopefully you can get this one last thing sorted out and get to enjoy it for a long time.
 
I am sorry to see you struggle with this. Moat Cruisers are well-behaved but yours look like it has had some neglect in the past.

Having had my LX being inoperable for almost 6 months last year, while I saw the whole summer pass me by was rough.

Hopefully you can get this one last thing sorted out and get to enjoy it for a long time.
Thank you, my friend. It will happen one day. I am almost about to just get a house here since I cannot seem to get it home, Haha
 
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Just when you thought it was over... Them brand spanking new bushings decided to take a break from holding the rack in place. I know you are all jealous. But I promise you would not want this. It is not as much fun as it seems. About to cross that dollar threshold where is it more cost-effective to let it rot in the yard or have the insurance company total it and take the loss?

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Just when you thought it was over... Them brand spanking new bushings decided to take a break from holding the rack in place. I know you are all jealous. But I promise you would not want this. It is not as much fun as it seems. About to cross that dollar threshold where is it more cost-effective to let it rot in the yard or have the insurance company total it and take the loss?

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View attachment 3056510

I am having some serious doubts about your "remanufactured" rack now :(
 
Your rack should not be moving like that if the rack bolts, bushings, washers and nuts are properly installed. There will be lots of movement driving it like that, and you're apt to take out your dip stick tube if it starts knocking into that. I know you've spent a lot of coin on it lately, but you may want to take it to a dealership for a new oem rack and warranty.
 
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I have got some super pro bushings en route. I believe the washers are there if memory serves. I did order some more anyway from Lexus this morning. It seems like due to a large amount of movement everything else is coming disconnected, leaking, and good call on the dipstick @2020 Rocks . It seems the bushings were peeled up around the nut. I cannot see the washer and maybe you are correct and I simply forgot it. Once parts arrive, it looks like I will be doing this job again. I really wish I had purchased an OEM rack in the beginning. Considering everything else is OEM. But due to budget constraints with all the other issues, this pile of junk has had thus far. It is really difficult to justify paying the nearest dealer that damaged the truck once already (used standard power steering fluid instead of type IV or WS) to do some more work and hope they get it right. $2,500.00 ($1K for rack ~ $100 for additional parts ~ 7.5 * $150 per plus an additional $25 per after 5 hours) This is the only dealer I have EVER witnessed charging more money for more hours. I had to ask three times to make sure that was indeed true also, I cannot hear so that may have contributed to multiple repetitions. Confirmed by service director.

Having been a former dealer employee (tech, writer, service manager) I know you pay for the peace of mind of having their expertise, installation, tools, and being responsible for it. This dealer is old-school "stealership" here. No warranty, no responsibility, and get off their property if you have an issue because they really are the ONLY game in town. They actively avoid older than 15-year-old vehicles, After discussions with the service director, because there are multiple issues with older vehicles that compound the work previously completed (like in this case). This is an easy way to avoid these headaches. I would do the same if I were in their position, especially with no competition and more work than I could accept. I can't blame them. I spoke with corporate Toyota via email and had I been the original purchaser they would warranty it after I shipped it to them without an issue.

SO, the moral of this story is: DO NOT be a cheap ass. Even if you cannot afford it. The old adages are true. "If you think a professional is expensive. You should see what an amateur (me) will cost you." I should have just parked it some more. saved up, waited, towed it home to Atlanta, and had one of my old Toyota techs there handle this for me. I have no one to blame but myself and that hot-ass Florida parking lot.

More tips are welcome. Thank you to everyone who has contributed. It is embarrassing but I own this. No one else. 👍 🤷‍♂️
Hoe-well...
Thank you mud.
 
So the dealer used the wrong fluid originally? Is that what killed the original rack and required you to have to replace it with the non OEM? I would seriously be pushing for them to cover replacement costs if that was the case and if they refused I would look to go the legal route like small claims court etc.
 
Chin up bud! This too shall pass!
 
So the dealer used the wrong fluid originally? Is that what killed the original rack and required you to have to replace it with the non OEM? I would seriously be pushing for them to cover replacement costs if that was the case and if they refused I would look to go the legal route like small claims court etc.
See, what had happened was…
The dealer was the first place I took it upon driving it home from purchase from mud member. I noticed a leak. Requested they add some fluids to my ticket upon post purchase inspection since tech mentioned low fluid level. I didn’t notice the wrong fluid until it was too late. So, is it the dealers fault? Maybe. Mine. Definitely. Cause of the blow out? Unlikely. Perhaps accelerating its demise. Age, and use are likely culprits of blowout. Because I cheap’d out and got rack secondhand is why I am in this situation. Plus maybe I am missing washers. But that has yet to be detirmined due to a rain delay currently.
 

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