Builds '97 VZJ95W to Canada - Ontario - Misc Blathering on (1 Viewer)

[billblyca]

OK - Went to Rock for the SKF variant of bearing and inner and outer seal

Will be tearing it down Sunday to do the LBJs and passing the steering knuckle to local shop Monday. Hopefully back on the road Tuesday.

Canada post site said the LBJs should have been here yesterday - Hopefully, they show up today.


As a funny side note one of the local dealers quoted the job with me bringing the knuckle into the shop already removed - Over $800 they said - I said no thank you.

What I think the problem was is that they do not have a book rate for knuckle out and just quoted the entire front end tear down rate.

 

[D21FJ60]

This thread has been great. Looks like next year the oldest 90 series can be imported to teh US. Will be keeping my eye on them for sure. Seen a few on various JDM import sites that look nice.

 

[billblyca]

Thanx for the kind words

Yes it will be interesting what happens to 90series prices when the clock ticks over 25 yrs for sure.


Today I did the left Ball joint. The front tie rod took a lot of force with a Princess auto ball joint breaker (Like US harbour freight) . The puller did not tear nor distort the tie rod bearing but about 1/2 a thimble of grease came out so I am not sure that will affect the remaining life of it. Had a Doh moment when I realized I did not buy a cotter pin for it so that is for tomorrow - Also have to charge up the great in the trailing arm.

The bushing kit was a little awkward - Using the thicker washers with the Moog trailing arm I could not get the nut started so I went with the bushing kit washer on the top - Tomorrow, when I do the right side with the front wheel bearing, I will use only the bushing kit washers.

Below is old out before new in....

Then with all new in..

About 3 hours - I tried to use a puller for the LBJ but after a bit of jurry rigging, I just opted for the pickle fork.

 

[billblyca]

So the other side is apart

Knuckle

You can see the heat score from the old bearing..

The old LBJ was really stiff as well. - On the ground - I think a little bit of water came from it as well when I compressed the boot.

I used the board (now boards) to knock in the spindle, knock off the rotor and as a buffer to the knuckle to release the ball joint. The entire country (Canada) is made of wood, might as well use it.

Even the trailing arm bushing on this side was a bear. Something happened to this side of the truck which I may never know.

The entire trailing arm went to whether so much smoother with the Bushing bearings - I will take apart the trailing arm on the other side and use only the energy washers.

Will drop off the bearing, seals and new snap ring to the shop tomorrow morning.

 

[billblyca]

Finally hunkered down and got the trailer light controller wired.

I did have to use <shudder> one of those crimp splicers for the right side.

There are nice punchouts with plastic covers on the back of the bumper mount structure - Drilled out the punch and gooped it up with silicone.

It will make a fine spot to run the back work lights as well. The illuminated missile fire type cap switches arrived from eBay 2 weeks ago and I plan to use that for the two work lights on the hitch.

My biggest worry for the Prado was the hitch with so little info on line - But in the end it was the most simple and so far the cheapest upgrade at less than $125 all in.. (Well excluding gas to pick up the hitch)

I have the tire tubs and will zoom off to the bolt store to get them mounted again, moving the plate off from the tail to the tubs. New side lights are on the way via Ebay as well with one yellow and one red burnt out on this 12 yr old trailer.

 

[JDM Journeys]

So Bill... Did you look for a t-type wiring connector for the truck? I'm suddenly needing to wire for a 4 flat. Is there a harness out there that you've found? I was hoping we could luck into a 4runner solution or something...

 

[billblyca]

In the end, I took the left-hand side trailer "tap" point (see the pix a few posts back) and snipped each one with heat shrink and spade lugs - On the right side the harness was far too buried underneath the rear AC so I just used a crimp connector on the right signal line .

You can see the breakout still hanging in the bottom left with the reverse lights still commented.

The Hopkins one I used has a breakaway 4 pin flat connector that is easy to replace should it get damaged. I routed that cable through the plastic punchouts at the back of the bumper with a healthy goop of silicone to seal it up. There are foam plugs in the body that you need to pull out to knock the plugs out.

 

[billblyca]

So it is time to dive into the water pump/timing belt.

I looked into the Schley tool but it is priced in $US with really steep shipping to Canada. eBay came to the rescue with a generic for $60 CDN inc shipping.

I could have gone Red Green on it with the 2x8 board version with bolts but thought I would just get an adequate tool for now.

Watching Timmy the ToolMan's videos a few times I also opted for the Bearing puller version of harmonic balancer removal. It as well was pretty pricy from Amazon but the same seller of the above tool they had that kit as well for $51CDN.

It is a long delivery (13 to 20 days) but it gives me time to order up the Rad and the belt kit.

Since I plan to keep the truck for a good long time (10 yrs plus) I figure I should just get the right tools.

It looks like Amazon Canada has the OEM Asin kit for$254 CDN while Rock is $236 CDN - With prime I think I may go with Amazon for that one.

Mind you the Denso radiator is 1/2 the cost from Rock vs Amazon @ $140 CDN.

I am set on doing an Auto trans supplemental cooler at the same time as well. Still figuring which one I will get for that.

 

[jnadaf]

Try Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama for parts they are quick and the cheapest. Use the postal system for shipping. All my parts come from them.

I have a similar VZJ95W-GKPGK, plug in that on the Amayama website and you will get all the OEM parts for that Prado. You should find a similar model description under the hood.

Mind you, though very similar with the 4Runner of the same year, the O2 sensor and the suspension parts have different part numbers.

The Prado is a far superior ride than a 4runner and a pleasure to drive. (I also have a 2.7L 98 4Runner and I love it)

Things like timing belt, ignition cables are cheaper on Amazon.

Denso radiator is good.

You say you have the shop manual for the 95 is it Toyota or Haynes?

Good Luck with the Prado.

 

[billblyca]

The shop manual was posted by another member as a link - It is on JDMjournies build thread posted by another fellow - Drago I think his name is - I just downloaded it as PDF - I do plan to print it, just have not yet - It looks like the UK or Australian FSM

I just priced out a few things on those folks and they are pretty competitive - The front wheel bearing with them was $70 CDN for the part and $40 ish for shipping. Amazon had the OEM Bearing ar $140ish on Prime. I did find the Koyo bearing (the Toyota OEM, just not with Toyota's part number) at another Canadian retailer for $95 ( Koyo-manufactured W0133-1616490) - I just did not google enough before I bought the SKF at Rock for $100..

_So_far_ the numbers have jived right from the Prado look up at EPC-data lookup to Rock, Amazon or others.

Just for giggles, I looked up the steering rack (One of the few things I doubt I could find here easily) and for that, they stated they would not ship to Canada

 

[billblyca]

So on the left side door sil there were two crushed spread nuts.

Ebay to the rescue.

20 Pcs Nylon Nut #10 Screw Grommet Clip For Toyota 90189-06010

Just had to snip off the old spread nut

It sits a little proud, but better than before when it was just wiggling in the socket.

 

[billblyca]

While I was at it I thought I would fasten down the floor mats from creaping up

You can see the carpet hook unused here.

An EBAY 10mm punch and die set.

Eyelet set

And there she is hooked in place.

And Yes - I do need to Vacuum

 

[billblyca]

Ordered from Rock last night.

Denso rad

Asin Thermostat

Asin timing belt kit (Bearings, Belt tensioner, Belt, Asin waterpump and gasket)

Al in, including shipping and taxes to Ontario, is $567 including a $20 off Rock code

Mid market generic radiator cap (the old one looks original - No use reusing it)

The listed above removal/install tools came in Tuesday morning.

Looks this will be my Canada day job.

P.S. After some friends complained on my Facebook thread I vacuumed my truck (Re: the mat eyelets)

 

[jnadaf]

The shop manual was posted by another member as a link - It is on JDMjournies build thread posted by another fellow - Drago I think his name is - I just downloaded it as PDF - I do plan to print it, just have not yet - It looks like the UK or Australian FSM

I just priced out a few things on those folks and they are pretty competitive - The front wheel bearing with them was $70 CDN for the part and $40 ish for shipping. Amazon had the OEM Bearing ar $140ish on Prime. I did find the Koyo bearing (the Toyota OEM, just not with Toyota's part number) at another Canadian retailer for $95 ( Koyo-manufactured W0133-1616490) - I just did not google enough before I bought the SKF at Rock for $100..

_So_far_ the numbers have jived right from the Prado look up at EPC-data lookup to Rock, Amazon or others.

Just for giggles, I looked up the steering rack (One of the few things I doubt I could find here easily) and for that, they stated they would not ship to Canada

Thanks for the link.
What I am missing is the Electrical Wiring Manual. For now I have been using the 2000 4Runner Electrical manual and it is similar in most aspects. Particularly the ECU external connections.

 

[billblyca]

Thanks for the link.
What I am missing is the Electrical Wiring Manual. For now I have been using the 2000 4Runner Electrical manual and it is similar in most aspects. Particularly the ECU external connections.

Take a look at this from the drop box link - It looked like the full electrical - I went through it for the trailer tap out - It is a big document

 

[billblyca]

Everything arrived from Rock safe and sound.

Got around to flushing the old rad and cooling system before nightfall tonight. Flush 1 to flush 4 right to left.

Top and bottom hoses came off easy peasy - Looselened fan clutch bolts with the belts attached so I did not have to fight the spin as I cracked the nuts.

The instructions say 2.5 hours to do the swap - I am giving me 6 - Happy Canada Day Eh !

 

[billblyca]

A few posts - I'll split up the stuff that was done.

The $51 EBAY tool worked good for breaking the crank bolt.

Both the gasket had failed (slightly) and the weep hole was flowing real good - I bet the weep hole was the majority of the slow leak.

The Idler pully between the cams had the back seal fall off as well.

Everything else came off quite well. The biggest issue was the frigging fragging fufudging PS belt - That set me back an hour and became an easy peasy removal after I took out the air box.

On to the "In"

 

[billblyca]

Everything arrived safe and sound from Rock - Ordered on a Thursday morning - At my house Monday night - $121 by Fed Ex..

So one real surprise for the water pump was this fitting which I assume is for some sort of EGR purpose on the 4runner, the Prado does not have a place for this too go. .

This was easily clamped off with some 1/2" ID Rad hose and a brass cap. It is right beside the oil filter so easy to keep an eye on for leaks when the oil is changed.

Unfortunately, the cheap Chinese pully tool could not handle 160ft lb pre torque of the 217 - SO I had to go all Red Green on it.

The 8mm bolts I had were not long enough to thread, but long enough to brace. 217 achieved, although I have read that they only need 195 for 1996-1999 - But I was not going to take the chance. I anti-seize-ed every bolt taken off _except_ the crank bolt - But I did give good skim coat of anti-seize between the crankshaft and the balancer.

The left cam did flop over while the belt was being installed which caused some trepidation. Lined it back up and spun the belted assembly 4 times just to be _sure_ it all stayed aligned.

And even with a 2' torque wrench - 217 is a B!TC#

 

[billblyca]

All the little tiddly bits were reinstalled, coolant refilled, everything checked twice and, eyes closed, The key was turned.....



Sucess,..... Phweeew..

I with the new cap...

The Asin record sticker...

I might see if I can get $20 for the old Rad and $10 for the old tensioner as they still work and may be of some value to someone with one of each that is broke (Literally and figuratively) The old tensioner had no oil leak.

A Big Big Big thanx to Youtuber Timmy the Tool man for giving me the knowledge, and more so the courage, to take this on

 

[billblyca]

Well, THAT was fun - I waited until 6:30 to start as it was 32C (91F) and Canadians melt above 85F eh...

you may have seen earlier in the thread where I suspected the O2 sensor gasket had failed because of a whistle above 60km/hr - Well I think that was true.

Since the skid plates were off I thought I would do the front Diff fluid change - Well I found my Prado has the 10mm and 12mm hex bolts - So I have to run out for a 12mm Hill Billy hex socket (12mm bolt and 2 nuts) tomorrow as I do not have a 12MM hex key socket, nor does it look like Princess auto does either.

So I turned my sights on the O2 sensor. The back bolt came off easy peasy so I confidently moved on to the front one.

Oh how wrong I was - In the pictures, you will see the leak was around the front bolt effectively cooking the front nut right proper.

A 35 min vice grip fight ensued with success on the 4th shot of PB blaster and a smaller vice grip oddly enough.

You can see the discolouration caused by the blow-by. This is the top face of the gasket.

Here you can see the easy removal back bolt face vs the blow by front.

The new gasket and 2 new nuts - They both got a slather of Copper anti-seize before being torqued to 12ft/lbs

Fingers crossed for a easy front diff and general oil change so she can get back on the road.