97 LC80 vs 98 LC100 maintenance cost (1 Viewer)

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Lets say we've got a clean 97 LC80 and a clean 98 LC100 with say 150k miles on em. Both are well cared for vehicles.

Over the course of 3 years which do you think you'd spend more on maintenance?
 

Nottajeep

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Oh s***, here we go again... both are bad ass, one has a timing belt and one has a tedious front axle seal. Paying for the service in a shop you'll come within $200 breaking even on the two services. If you do them yourself, you'll pay a little more for a timing belt. Neither of these items require service every 3 years anyway so who cares? Buy the ride for the place you want to go.
 

e9999

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not obvious, but if I had to hazard a guess it would be the 100 that'd be more expensive. I'm thinking the 2nd timing belt would be due soon, that's already over $1000 if you have it done by a shop. Of course, if the 80 needs a HG, that might even things out a bit.
The 80 is simpler to work on generally speaking, so less likely to end up in a shop vs DIY?
I'll admit my thinking may be colored by our 80 / 100 dual personality situation where the 80 has never been in a shop but the 100 has...
 
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Sorry if this is a dead horse, I've been on here a while and perhaps just glazed over this question when it's come up before.

My intuition was that the 80 series LC's where cheaper to maintain because it was an older less tech vehicle. However that doesn't seem so true. Seems to be right on par with 100 series maintenance.
 

tabraha

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I can't imagine my dealer charging 1k for a t-belt!!! Mine was $453 at my local Toyota dealer and that included doing the main drive belt, that was at 90,000. This time at 201,000 I did t-belt, water pump, plugs and both front O2 sensors for $780, but not at the dealer, I supplied O2's via cdan. (Sadly I bought both O2's from Dan in 2007, and this DIY project never materialized so I had my guy slap 'em on while he had it this week. Sometimes you have to come to grips with the fact you don't have time for everything!)

Anyhow, at 150k mi and if both are well cared for the only maint you should have on the 100 is a t-belt at 180k ish over the course of the next 3 years. Giving a 20k mile a year avg that would be 210,000 miles at the end of the 3rd year and no reason not to expect plenty of trouble free miles on either ride for quite some time thereafter. There's no real scheduled maintenance for quite some time after that t-belt at 180k on the 100, I cannot speak to the 80 in all honesty. Plugs might be worthwhile too, as I was on my original Denso's which is why I changed them @ 201,000. :hillbilly: Also of note is if you average 10k a year as opposed to 20k a year you wouldn't even be changing the t-belt in that timespan but would most likely be due for it at the end of the third year if the PO changed it at 90k on the button. Many procrastinate which delay's the 2nd t-belt to 90k from the mileage the original was changed at, often 100k.

Interesting sidenote: Even with original plugs, both front O2's out I was getting 14mpg on 33" Cooper STT's. That's not bad!
 
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When it comes to regular-ole stuff I think they are similar.

There are a few expensive things/repairs though on 80's that have a high concentration of failure that don't exist on the 100. (And no...please don't start with starter contacts and manifols as they freeuncy of failure are not close).

*Rear main seals
*Pan Arch seals
*Head Gasket failures
*Air conditioning/cooling troubles

All the above are EXPENSIVE to fix and folks deal with them all the time on 80's. The 100's utilize newer technology and it's obvious now that the V8 has surpassed the I6 in terms of reliability and longevity.
 
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I've been on a light search to potentially add an 80 to my driveway. I really love the way they look, however I almost feel that It might be more cost effective to spend an extra 2k-3k and put an older 100 in the driveway instead.
 

AimCOtaco

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I was looking for an 80 when the right priced 100 came available. We obviously went with the 100.

In retrospect I would have saved a lot of money on the 80 I think but the wife loves the 100 and I don't think the 80 would be nearly as well loved. Plus after a drive from CO to Austin TX and back the 100 earned it's $$ in speed/comfort on the road.

That said, I have a t-belt to do, exhaust is shot, front diff will fail, ignition is a general nightmare (broken keys, programming keys, replacing ECU's, connetor rod failure, coil packs,etc.) front suspension is higher upkeep as well, steering rack R$R also not cheap/easy. Bleeding brakes is a trick or trip to dealer. Don't know what and 80 MC costs but the 100 MC $ could soil your pants. Windshields on a 100 $$$, don't know on 80... my list for my 100 has been expensive so far, more than I expected. Still love the 100.

For a DD just get the 100 and plan on a bit of extra $$. For a trail truck/snow vehicle I would save cash by going the 80 route. Thats my 2c...
 

AimCOtaco

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My intuition was that the 80 series LC's where cheaper to maintain because it was an older less tech vehicle.
After owning a 60 and now a 100 my intuition agrees with yours.

PS: don't forget about the integrated stereo/climate/nav screen thing that dies and sucks $$$ on the newer 100s. 100 is high tech for better(fun,fast,safe,cool) and worse($$$, less field serviceable/mod-able).

--would have edited last post but not currently allowed?--
 
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After owning a 60 and now a 100 my intuition agrees with yours.

PS: don't forget about the integrated stereo/climate/nav screen thing that dies and sucks $$$ on the newer 100s. 100 is high tech for better(fun,fast,safe,cool) and worse($$$, less field serviceable/mod-able).

--would have edited last post but not currently allowed?--
I know that screen/climate/nav thing all too well. I have an 04 and it went on me. Luckily I had it fixed for $900 instead of the $5300.
 
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Some of you forget or are not aware however that the frequency of failures on the 100 vs 80 are far less. So while some 100 repairs can be costly too you actually have less of them.
 

AimCOtaco

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I have a 1990 Hilux and a 2001 Tacoma, both 4-cyl, both 4x4, both reg-cab. Same cost relationship as 80 v 100. Taco breaks less but takes a lot more $$ when it does and is harder to work on. Net result is that it costs more to operate the Tacoma than the Hilux. 1964 Jeep v 2000 Jeep, same again.... Fancy s*** is nice but fancy s*** costs more.
 

AimCOtaco

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^^^
Agreed, the OP asked about cost and I think costs are higher for 80 vs 100.
No way I would trade the 100 for an 80 at this point. A lot of the 100 issues are 1 timers that will not be expected to return over the normal 300-500kmile life.

If he's keeping the '04 then I would lean toward an 80 to keep things interesting, on the other hand if I was doing all the work at home and keeping a lot of spares and consumables on hand, he may save in the long run with 2x100 instead of 1x80 and 1x100.

OP, your're adding another cruiser so it's a win-win whatever you do!
 

AimCOtaco

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Doh, I think costs are higher for 100 vs 80.
I type like a fool and may need to lay off altogether until I figure out why I can't edit my posts anymore!
 
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Windshields on a 100 $$$,
I'm getting them installed correctly in my driveway for $220. Seems reasonable to me.

The idea that the ignition system is a "nightmare" is way off. All the problems mentioned are pretty rare. Coil packs set a code, then you swap an $80 part with a single bolt. ECU replacement ? Very rare, and even when replaced is not usually the problem.

One extra expense - You need to buy a code reader for the 100 (<$100). You don't trouble shoot it by randomly replacing parts like is popular among the 80s guys. You plug in the reader and the code plus FSM tells you what is wrong.
 
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I put 235k miles on my 80 and tracked every dollar. Doing the same on each of my 100's. I'll let you all know in a few years. ;)

So far I'm feeling like the 100's are less prone to maintenance.
 

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