97 Gremlin will not get past 2200 rpm till warmed up!

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Dec 8, 2006
Sudbury, Ont. CA
Need some ideas.
Starts well, idles well, runs great once hot.
Between these times she will not get past 2200 rpm and stalls till you back off on the skinny pedal.
Bit of a headache in morning traffic...

New cat, exhaust, ignition wires, plugs, distributor, rotor.

Have checked vacuum lines, and bypassed the fuel relay resistor beside ant.

I am thinking FPR or coolant sensor above oil filter, the one closest to driver.

BTW no codes and cannot even make a code happen!
Maybe with all the new parts the computer is not recognizing the flow through the exhaust so retarding the engine... or a bad plug wire or cross wires
No those parts were in before this happened.
Runs like a champ once hot.
Runs like a champ when warm or run like a champ when hot or runs like a champ when in closed loop?
Runs great when hot...after a few miles, therefore closed loop.
I have roughly 6 miles to travel to work, the first five suck and the last mile is great.
Just finished over 500 miles of road trip with no issues and a hot engine.

Tonight I reconnected the fuel relay resistor, cleaned up the EGT probe which was pretty clean, Sea foamed the vacuum lines and fuel tank.
Exchanged fuel relay in DS kick panel.
Tomorrow I will hot wire the ECT probe (Engine Coolant Temp)
I am trying to purposely eliminate the easy things first and not do everything at once .
Yes the CEL light works.
Thinking sensor as well .
I had a similar problem on my '94. After 9months of heavy lurking here I finally found the solution: the NSS barrel connector. Filled the cavity with dialectric and I was good! Exactly ZERO problems since.
Using my Blue Driver OBII I have discovered that the TPS is at 0% till my ECT gets over 190 degrees.
Once my TPS becomes active I am reading 11 % at idle and almost 77% at WOT as adjusted last night.

Next step is to test the second of two temp sensors....wiring visual, jumper bypass and maybe even continuity.
Suspect a broken or loose wire/s

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