need suggestions/help please!
I've read several dozen threads and tried lots of things - hopefully the solution is something easy
background:
97 40th fzj80, with 183k. ive owned it for the last 20,000 miles or so, and it has always been a reliable starter- no previous issues. The truck was running great prior to starting this job on Aug 13 - i have taken about 5 trips this summer at 500+ miles, cruising at 75mph with no issues besides 12mpg and it eats about a quart of oil every 1,000miles.
i am moving to a big city and wanted to do some work to it to make it more road driveable. i bought it with a 6" slee lift and 1" body lift installed, with 37s. i am in the process of shrinking it down to 4" lit with 35s and no body lift. while i had the job of exposing body mount bolts i went ahead and pulled entire interior to put down sound deadening and run cables/wires for a gentex rearview backup camera. found some rust spots that i fixed after exposing them. So far i have maybe a third of the sound deadening applied so seats, trim and carpet are still removed. I also need to swap coils, run the backup camera cables, and fix one more rust hole i found in the rear quarter panel. I broke off the passenger rear fender flare when i was putting my bumper back on and i think it took some material that was previously hold on with it.
BODY MOUNT REMOVAL
the two front body mount bolts were super stuck. the passenger side i was able to cut the bolt in half through the puck, back off the two bolts holding the bushing (cushion) in place on the frame bracket, lift up the truck an extra few inches (evenly front to back to minimize body torsion, of course), and then beat out the bolt from the bushing sleeve after it was removed. The drivers side was more difficult and seriously took me about 10-12 hours to get out, trying to beat it out. the bushing bolt that ties the bushing to the bracket stripped instantly like butter, so i ended up resorting to having to cut that bolt head off after a lot of struggle trying to get the bolt to get out of the bushing on it's own., including using an air hammer. After removing both bushing support bolts i could jack the body off the frame by about 3 inches and then get the bushing out. had to wail on the bolt for about 45 minutes with a 4lb sledge to get it to move. popped it back in, got the radiator bolts, fan and fan shroud, battery box back together, and attempted to start. no go.
It would seem like the obvious thing causing the issue was maybe i lifted the truck too high to get those bushings out, and a connection came loose or pulled out after getting stretched... The truck was running great before the body lift removal, and i didnt drop the body back onto the frame aggressively, (although i didnt beat on that stuck bolt with an air hammer).
NO START: just a light clicking noise (fuel pump relay), no cranking or starter click or anything.
- CEL is on. i changed the fusible link anyways, because that's always what someone suggests at first.
- A/T and oil lamp on the dash do not light up when the key is in the start position.
- the top right rectangle red light in the dash comes on, above the voltmeter gauge
- headlights, radio, interior lights all come on
- no RS3000 installed/under the drivers seat. the window has a sticker that hints that there may have been an alarm system in the past.
- battery is charged and sits at 12.8 volts. drops down to 11.7 volts with key in start position using code reader battery status monitor
- OBD2 code reader (INNOVA 3100) has "no powertrain DTCS or freeze frame data stored", with green circles (MIS) (FUE) (CCM) but red circles (CAT) (02S) (HTR) (EGR)
what we tried: @zuluzeugma, was over and we tried a lot of things
- tried jumping it with a 'jump start battery' - no change
- tried jumping it from another car - no change
- tried grounding the starter to the neg terminal of the battery - no change
- tried tapping on the starter - no change
- hooked up the fuel pump harness top left and bottom left to a battery - the fuel pump came on running strong.
- walked through FSM ST-13 troubleshooting procedure for start issues. - no change
- checked all grounds in the engine bay, on transmission/tcase, and elsewhere - all were tight
- checked all connections - none were loose or stretched. specifically checked O2 sensors off cats, and looked at neutral safety switch, and others.
- swapped out EFI relay - no change
- checked fuses in key panel - all looked good.
- swapped out fuel pump relay (clicked slightly louder)
- tried starting in neutral - no change
Some other ideas that @zuluzeugma and Leni (i dont know his handle) had - maybe the truck went into limp home safe mode/rollover mode due to all the jarring getting the lift off? would a toyota mechanic be able to read more definite codes and identify exactly which relay or harness/system would fix it?
my questions: (i'm not a very experienced mechanic and something may be super obvious that i didnt see or try
- why would the A/T and oil level lamps not be on - CEL is on, the other two are not
- what would be the cause of the red circles (CAT) (02S) (HTR) (EGR) on the code scanner?
- could it be the starter? i went ahead and ordered a replacement starter online, but i dont think it would have just failed all the sudden. it's original so it's about time to replace it anyways.
- thought about running a jumper from the starter to positive lead as a start signal, like i saw in a thread (not ideal i know)
- though about running a jumper from ignition to starter, bypassing NSS, like i saw in a thread (not ideal i know)
- what else should i try to do?
thank you for your help. since i am moving soon ideally i would get the truck running quickly so i can drive it to where we are moving to and not have to have it transported for me.
I've read several dozen threads and tried lots of things - hopefully the solution is something easy
background:
97 40th fzj80, with 183k. ive owned it for the last 20,000 miles or so, and it has always been a reliable starter- no previous issues. The truck was running great prior to starting this job on Aug 13 - i have taken about 5 trips this summer at 500+ miles, cruising at 75mph with no issues besides 12mpg and it eats about a quart of oil every 1,000miles.
i am moving to a big city and wanted to do some work to it to make it more road driveable. i bought it with a 6" slee lift and 1" body lift installed, with 37s. i am in the process of shrinking it down to 4" lit with 35s and no body lift. while i had the job of exposing body mount bolts i went ahead and pulled entire interior to put down sound deadening and run cables/wires for a gentex rearview backup camera. found some rust spots that i fixed after exposing them. So far i have maybe a third of the sound deadening applied so seats, trim and carpet are still removed. I also need to swap coils, run the backup camera cables, and fix one more rust hole i found in the rear quarter panel. I broke off the passenger rear fender flare when i was putting my bumper back on and i think it took some material that was previously hold on with it.
BODY MOUNT REMOVAL
the two front body mount bolts were super stuck. the passenger side i was able to cut the bolt in half through the puck, back off the two bolts holding the bushing (cushion) in place on the frame bracket, lift up the truck an extra few inches (evenly front to back to minimize body torsion, of course), and then beat out the bolt from the bushing sleeve after it was removed. The drivers side was more difficult and seriously took me about 10-12 hours to get out, trying to beat it out. the bushing bolt that ties the bushing to the bracket stripped instantly like butter, so i ended up resorting to having to cut that bolt head off after a lot of struggle trying to get the bolt to get out of the bushing on it's own., including using an air hammer. After removing both bushing support bolts i could jack the body off the frame by about 3 inches and then get the bushing out. had to wail on the bolt for about 45 minutes with a 4lb sledge to get it to move. popped it back in, got the radiator bolts, fan and fan shroud, battery box back together, and attempted to start. no go.
It would seem like the obvious thing causing the issue was maybe i lifted the truck too high to get those bushings out, and a connection came loose or pulled out after getting stretched... The truck was running great before the body lift removal, and i didnt drop the body back onto the frame aggressively, (although i didnt beat on that stuck bolt with an air hammer).
NO START: just a light clicking noise (fuel pump relay), no cranking or starter click or anything.
- CEL is on. i changed the fusible link anyways, because that's always what someone suggests at first.
- A/T and oil lamp on the dash do not light up when the key is in the start position.
- the top right rectangle red light in the dash comes on, above the voltmeter gauge
- headlights, radio, interior lights all come on
- no RS3000 installed/under the drivers seat. the window has a sticker that hints that there may have been an alarm system in the past.
- battery is charged and sits at 12.8 volts. drops down to 11.7 volts with key in start position using code reader battery status monitor
- OBD2 code reader (INNOVA 3100) has "no powertrain DTCS or freeze frame data stored", with green circles (MIS) (FUE) (CCM) but red circles (CAT) (02S) (HTR) (EGR)
what we tried: @zuluzeugma, was over and we tried a lot of things
- tried jumping it with a 'jump start battery' - no change
- tried jumping it from another car - no change
- tried grounding the starter to the neg terminal of the battery - no change
- tried tapping on the starter - no change
- hooked up the fuel pump harness top left and bottom left to a battery - the fuel pump came on running strong.
- walked through FSM ST-13 troubleshooting procedure for start issues. - no change
- checked all grounds in the engine bay, on transmission/tcase, and elsewhere - all were tight
- checked all connections - none were loose or stretched. specifically checked O2 sensors off cats, and looked at neutral safety switch, and others.
- swapped out EFI relay - no change
- checked fuses in key panel - all looked good.
- swapped out fuel pump relay (clicked slightly louder)
- tried starting in neutral - no change
Some other ideas that @zuluzeugma and Leni (i dont know his handle) had - maybe the truck went into limp home safe mode/rollover mode due to all the jarring getting the lift off? would a toyota mechanic be able to read more definite codes and identify exactly which relay or harness/system would fix it?
my questions: (i'm not a very experienced mechanic and something may be super obvious that i didnt see or try
- why would the A/T and oil level lamps not be on - CEL is on, the other two are not
- what would be the cause of the red circles (CAT) (02S) (HTR) (EGR) on the code scanner?
- could it be the starter? i went ahead and ordered a replacement starter online, but i dont think it would have just failed all the sudden. it's original so it's about time to replace it anyways.
- thought about running a jumper from the starter to positive lead as a start signal, like i saw in a thread (not ideal i know)
- though about running a jumper from ignition to starter, bypassing NSS, like i saw in a thread (not ideal i know)
- what else should i try to do?
thank you for your help. since i am moving soon ideally i would get the truck running quickly so i can drive it to where we are moving to and not have to have it transported for me.
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