97 Crank and No Start (1 Viewer)

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Update on my diagnostics.
Checked voltage at +B at diagnostic on firewall. - .4V
Checked voltage at connector under power steering reservoir (key in "on/rum" position) - fluctuated between .0198 and .2V
Checked continuity from female side of plug under reservoir to +B - .4

So, is diagnosis the fusible link?


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Damn. Me too. Ran when parked Saturday. Tagging on here.

I just did a new fuel pump. I’m hoping that it just came unplugged.
Thanks, and let me know what you find out. I have ordered a fusible link and waiting on it to arrive. I called my self, working my way back from the ECM to the connection under the PS reservoir. Not getting voltage on the battery side of the connection. So, i am assuming that fusible link is issue. I have replaced fuel pump relay in engine compartment and power relay at driver kick panel.
 
Thanks, and let me know what you find out. I have ordered a fusible link and waiting on it to arrive. I called my self, working my way back from the ECM to the connection under the PS reservoir. Not getting voltage on the battery side of the connection. So, i am assuming that fusible link is issue. I have replaced fuel pump relay in engine compartment and power relay at driver kick panel.
I’ve got 2 new in bag fusible links just down the road from you in canton
 
Does that wire power the ECU? Is it tied into the diagnostic, B+ on the passenger side firewall?
Yes, and yes. If you have power in the diagnostic port on B+! Then the socket in my picture is likely OK. Lack of CHECK ENGINE light does mean that wire has failed somewhere.
 
Power flows:

1- from battery to fusible link
2 - from fusible link to EFI fuse
3 - from EFI fuse to EFI relay
4 - from EFI relay to various drops on way to diagnostic connector B+

If you checked the under hood fuse box and the EFI fuse is good, then you can check the EFI relay right next to it. Simple way is to put a finger on it and key the ignition on - you should feel it click. You can also use a volt meter to ensure the relay socket is receiving power. If these check out, and your check engine light is still not illuminated, then your fusible links are likely ok and you’ll be looking at wiring issues between the fuse box and the diagnostic connector:
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New fusible link installed.
Turned key and still no CEL.
Thanks Jeeper.

I’m at my wits end. Regrouping to see what to do next.

I’m going to look at Jeeper list. I’m not sure which slots to test for power. I tried to read electric manual. Seems not that smart.

Don’t want to send to Toyota. One more shot.
 
New fusible link installed.
Turned key and still no CEL.
Thanks Jeeper.

I’m at my wits end. Regrouping to see what to do next.

I’m going to look at Jeeper list. I’m not sure which slots to test for power. I tried to read electric manual. Seems not that smart.

Don’t want to send to Toyota. One more shot.
Did you try a jumper wire from B+ on the battery straight to the B+ pin in the diagnostic port?
 
Back from additional testing. Removed the EFI relay from box on fender. Took relay from side kick panel that powers the sunroof. Placing this relay into the socket for the EFI relay resulted in +12V at the +B Diagnostics pin. It also resulted in an illuminated CEL. But the truck would not crank. Had light for charging, ABS, The EFI relay was replaced (they said) at Toyota.

I have ordered an EFI relay 90987-02004.

With CEL lit, what would now cause truck not to crank?

Is there something that would cause the CEL to fail?

I have replaced the fuel pump relay, and the fusible link.

Interesting note, I had 12V at +B. But there was 0V at pins 1 and 12 on plug E7. Yet the CEL lit.
 
Here is where I am as of today.

It began with truck cranking, with no start. Installed a new starter because the starter occasionally would not turn over. Truck cranked and driven home. 5-6 times after new starter, the truck started. On the 6th or 7th try, the truck would crank, but not start.

Took back to Toyota. Mechanic pulled power relay from inside driver kick panel and substituted for EFI relay. Truck cranked so a new EFI Relay was ordered and installed.

Truck driven home. Started 5-6 times. Then truck would crank, with no start.

Ordered and installed new fuel pump relay. Truck cranked and started 5-6 times. After that, crank with no start. At this point checked for and found the check engine light was not illuminating. It had illuminated when truck would start.

The truck decided to start one morning, and then decided this was a bad idea and went back to crank, no start. I noted that the CEL did not illuminate. Checked for 12V at +B in diagnostics port on fire wall, and pins 1 and 12 on plug E7 (22 pin plug in ECU). No voltage found on either.

Replaced the fusible link. Crank no start. No CEL. Checked for 12V at +B in diagnostics port on fire while, and pins 1 and 12 on plug E7 (22 pin plug in ECU). No voltage found on either.

Substituted power relay for sunroof with EFI relay. Got CEL. 12V at +B. But little or no voltage showing at E7 pins 1 and 12. Truck cranks. No start. Have ordered another EFI relay.

I have taken a test light and connected to neg post on battery and negative battery cable. When the key is off, no light. When the key is on, the test light glows. When the key is off, and the door is open with "key in ignition" warning buzzing, the light glows dimly. I pulled all fuses and EFI relay while key on, with no change.

There is 12V into 15-amp fuse for EFI. I called myself checking continuity of connection from fuse box to single connection under power steering reservoir, to diagnostic box on fire wall.

I am now stumped, know I am missing something, but out of ideas.

Thoughts?
 
Confirming that you are saying that you now have 12v at the B+ terminal on the diagnostic connector, but do not have 12v on pin 12 of the E7 connector feeding the ECU. I don’t believe you should have a CEL lit if this is the case. Can you confirm?
 
Here is where I am as of today.
You said you are not getting voltage to E7-1. Was the key in the ON/RUN position when you tested this???
If yes, then this is your issue.
If the ECU does not "see" an IGNITION ON signal, the CEL will not illuminate and you have a 6000 lb paperweight.
Since this appears to be intermittent, then the very first thing to do is reseat/replace the 7.5 amp IGN fuse.
After that you need to work backwards to the ignition switch and to the power source.

You might want to stop needlessly cranking the starter. NO CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position=NO START.
 
I have a 1997 LX450. It began with a crank no start. Took the truck Toyota and they replaced the relay in kid panel on the driver side. The truck crank and ran. I brought it home and the truck continued to crank approximately for several days. Then it would not crank. I research and read "crank no start" threads and replaced the electric fuel pump relay in the engine compartment. The truck again cranked and ran. I ran the truck for several days. Yesterday I drove the truck and then parked it. Tried to restart and could only get crank, no start. This morning I tried the truck again, and it started. I did not drive the truck. This afternoon I again tried the truck, and it would not start. The check engine light does not come on. It did light up when the truck did crank and run.
All this has occured over the past 4 weeks.

The fusible link appears to be in good shape.

I am at the point of needing help on what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Having the same problem with mine ran great yesterday nothing .. just crank no start Have been trying to diagnose ever since. It's so weird because I drove it and parked it And now it won't start.. Checked all fuses I believe it's a spark issue hit her with a little fire juice and she didn't pop. Going out today to see if I can't find a spark. Of course it would happen when it's 5゚
 

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