97-97 brakes and rotors and lines and LSPV (1 Viewer)

Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
1,110
Location
Minneapolis, Mn
Why don't you just replace the pads, bleed it and call it done? Why are you replacing things like lines, master cylinder and booster if they aren't needed?
That MOTIVE brake bleeder works great! Get the kit with the universal cover, follow the simple instructions and you are good to go. Remember to bleed the LSPV too
 

on the rocks

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
771
Location
Colorado
there is a special brake line pressure gauge or something? and you need to adjust the LSPV so you get the correct values from the FSM at the various locations in the LSPV is that right?
Surprisingly, very few threads here on this. This is a universal set that has been suggested as working. And yes, the FSM lists the recommended pressure your looking for.

 

FMC80

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
2,542
Location
Jonesborough, TN
I find the motive brake bleeder SUCKS unless you get the attachment that Malleus posted a pic of. Take his and other’s advice, get the power bleeder but also the attachment that prevents you from pissing brake fluid everywhere from the MC like I did.
 

flintknapper

SILVER Star
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
11,226
Location
Deep East Texas
I find the motive brake bleeder SUCKS unless you get the attachment that Malleus posted a pic of. Take his and other’s advice, get the power bleeder but also the attachment that prevents you from pissing brake fluid everywhere from the MC like I did.

Agreed. The BA10 adapter will prevent a 'blow out' or leak at the reservoir.

It can be done with the universal cover....but be careful to fit it well and don't apply too much pressure (keep at 10 lbs or so).

With the BA10 you can get a very snug fit and apply 15 lbs or a bit more.
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2016
Messages
2,283
Location
Oregon
does it self adjust once you add a lift?
Uh. I just said:

you only adjust the LSPV if you've installed a lift. Or removed one.

*You* only adjust the LSPV if you've installed a lift. Not "the LSPV adjusts itself". If it adjusted itself then nobody would be talking about adjusting it.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
9,688
Why don't you just replace the pads, bleed it and call it done? Why are you replacing things like lines, master cylinder and booster if they aren't needed?
That MOTIVE brake bleeder works great! Get the kit with the universal cover, follow the simple instructions and you are good to go. Remember to bleed the LSPV too
I recommend because brakes are an important vehicle safety system. The boosters seem to not last forever. Most at this point are on the brink of going out. If you replace it and not the master as well you risk killing the seals in the master and sending brake fluid into the new booster which will ruin it quickly. The bleeding process on a old master can over stress the old seals in the master mkving them to travel where corrosion inside the piston area sits.
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
10,978
Location
New Jersey
Website
www.sdsysdesign.com
Replacing flexible brake lines that are now 25 years old should be common sense.
Inspecting and rebuilding calipers on all 4 corners somewhat regularly should be as well.

I personally have never had an issue bleeding either my 91 or 97 the old school way using a Snapple bottle and a clear hose. I keep 2 full sets of calipers. 1 on the truck and a completely rebuilt set in the garage ready to slap on. I gravity bleed all 4 corners first, flush the LSPV along with the rears one more time. Go for a drive and activate ABS a bunch of times to cycle the old fluid out of the unit, bleed again with fresh fluid, done.

Yes, it takes some time to do it correctly, but I don't rush things.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Messages
1,897
Location
tejas
Replacing flexible brake lines that are now 25 years old should be common sense.
Inspecting and rebuilding calipers on all 4 corners somewhat regularly should be as well.

I personally have never had an issue bleeding either my 91 or 97 the old school way using a Snapple bottle and a clear hose. I keep 2 full sets of calipers. 1 on the truck and a completely rebuilt set in the garage ready to slap on. I gravity bleed all 4 corners along first, flush the LSPV along with the rears one more time. Go for a drive and activate ABS a bunch of times to cycle the old fluid out of the unit, bleed again with fresh fluid, done.

Yes, it takes some time to do it correctly, but I don't rush things.
thanks for that.
are there four different sets of calipers on the rig? and do you buy new, put those in and rebuild the old ones and keep the rebuilt ones the shelf? i've never rebuilt calipers actually so not sure what is involved.
and on the LSPV you just disconnect it clean it up and flush it while it is connected in the truck?
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
10,978
Location
New Jersey
Website
www.sdsysdesign.com
thanks for that.
are there four different sets of calipers on the rig? and do you buy new, put those in and rebuild the old ones and keep the rebuilt ones the shelf? i've never rebuilt calipers actually so not sure what is involved.
and on the LSPV you just disconnect it clean it up and flush it while it is connected in the truck?
You have 2 front calipers and 2 rear calipers. The fronts go on the front, the rears go on the rear.
I picked up a 2nd set of OEM calipers some years ago from Mcgeorge. At the time we were doing fairly extensive road trips each year, and it just made sense to swap calipers, bleed the system and be good to go. The calipers I remove get rebuilt with OEM parts, all new hardware and paint over the winter, are loaded with new OEM pads, and vacuum sealed for freshness.

Brakes are the single most important system on the vehicle. You don't have to go, but you absolutely need to stop.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Messages
1,897
Location
tejas
THANKS gents,
so if i had it all together and wanted to do full boat - it is:
new master cylinder
new brake booster
new LSPV
OEM100 series front pads (per preference) OEM 80 series pads rear.
4 new rotors (rebuild old ones as time allows).
three or four cans of DOT 3 (overkill i would guess)
motive brake bleeder.
overflow jug or jugs.
extra helper to bleed the system.
rags.
set of brake dual gauges with toyota fittings to verify line pressures?

> one more thing. is there some kind of pro level bleeder systrm i could buy used if i found it cheap? like if i wanted to go total overkill with some kind of pro level shop brake bleeder?
 

FMC80

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
2,542
Location
Jonesborough, TN
three or four cans of DOT 3 (overkill i would guess)
motive brake bleeder.
extra helper to bleed the system.

> one more thing. is there some kind of pro level bleeder systrm i could buy used if i found it cheap? like if i wanted to go total overkill with some kind of pro level shop brake bleeder?
You don't need an extra helper if you have the Motive brake bleeder. Just make sure you get the adapter that Malleus and Flintnapper pointed out.
You'll probably need more than 3-4 bottles of DOT 3. buy extra, and return what you don't use.
Just get the Motive bleeder. You don't need anything more than that for your uses.
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2017
Messages
4,064
Location
Charlotte, NC & Alexandria, VA
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
3,386
Location
Phoenix, AZ
THANKS gents,
so if i had it all together and wanted to do full boat - it is:
new master cylinder
new brake booster
new LSPV
OEM100 series front pads (per preference) OEM 80 series pads rear.
4 new rotors (rebuild old ones as time allows).
three or four cans of DOT 3 (overkill i would guess)
motive brake bleeder.
overflow jug or jugs.
extra helper to bleed the system.
rags.
set of brake dual gauges with toyota fittings to verify line pressures?

> one more thing. is there some kind of pro level bleeder systrm i could buy used if i found it cheap? like if i wanted to go total overkill with some kind of pro level shop brake bleeder?

I am exhausted
 

Ozark Bushwalker

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 20, 2021
Messages
1,007
Location
Northwest Arkansas
I recommend because brakes are an important vehicle safety system. The boosters seem to not last forever. Most at this point are on the brink of going out. If you replace it and not the master as well you risk killing the seals in the master and sending brake fluid into the new booster which will ruin it quickly. The bleeding process on a old master can over stress the old seals in the master mkving them to travel where corrosion inside the piston area sits.
How common is this to actually occur? I just replaced my booster but left the MC as I didn't wanna deal with bleeding the system after struggling with the booster.. I suppose I might order a new MC though and bleed the brakes if it's more than likely to ruin the new Seiken.

Also I'm wondering why some members on here insist on replacing brake lines and hoses preemptively? My lines appeared to be in great shape: no rust or kinks. The hoses seemed to be in decent shape as well, no leaks. I'm not trying to argue or say anyone's wrong (maybe I'll learn the hard way) but other than the booster nothing seemed on the brink of failure, but of course I could be wrong as I lack experience with these things.

Is it common for lines and hoses to suddenly fail catastrophically? Thanks
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
9,688
How common is this to actually occur? I just replaced my booster but left the MC as I didn't wanna deal with bleeding the system after struggling with the booster.. I suppose I might order a new MC though and bleed the brakes if it's more than likely to ruin the new Seiken.

Also I'm wondering why some members on here insist on replacing brake lines and hoses preemptively? My lines appeared to be in great shape: no rust or kinks. The hoses seemed to be in decent shape as well, no leaks. I'm not trying to argue or say anyone's wrong (maybe I'll learn the hard way) but other than the booster nothing seemed on the brink of failure, but of course I could be wrong as I lack experience with these things.

Is it common for lines and hoses to suddenly fail catastrophically? Thanks
If the master is original and you just replaced the booster you should definitely replace the master. After a part is like 25 years old and cycles thousands of times a year, just replace it. How much longer will it last? Who knows its a gamble. If you replace it now, you get another 25 years. If you replace the master, replace the lspv. The lspv also cycles thousands of times a year and is not well protected from the elements. As far as the hoses, do they have cracks? If no cracks you can probably leave them. Depends what your budget is and how thorough you want to be. When a truck is old and or high miles, you have to be at least somewhat proactive and thorough in baselining. A lot easier to do work at home than in a auto zone parking lot in some small town 15 minutes before they close because of trying to save some effort or money. The lines last forever if they aren't rusty or crossthreaded.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
3,667
Location
South west utah
Joined
Apr 14, 2016
Messages
2,283
Location
Oregon
Also I'm wondering why some members on here insist on replacing brake lines and hoses preemptively?

Not a fan of dying, myself.

Polymers degrade continuously from the moment they're made. The molecular chains literally break. If it gets really bad, you might be able to see damage, like the "dry rot" cracking of an old tire. It's exacerbated by things like UV, heat, and ozone exposure, but it's still happening even inside the outer cover of brake hose.

Also, this forum seems to be generally made up of folks with money. Most of us can afford to spend a few hundred dollars on the single most critical safety system in a vehicle.
 
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
3,667
Location
South west utah
Also I'm wondering why some members on here insist on replacing brake lines and hoses preemptively?

So you don't have to use a pair of vise grips and zip ties to drive 30 miles back to the pavement or home.

20210225_175811.jpg
 
Joined
Jan 1, 2020
Messages
962
Location
Oregon
What break booster are people running? OEM? $600! Master cylinder $250! LSPV $200!. I get it’s the most important system, just wanted to see if anybody has any good alternatives that have been field tested? Thanks Wes
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom