'96 NPR for coversion (1 Viewer)

[mjosoba]

Hey guys, I've been a long time lurker and former member for years. Lost all my info and such though a year or so back.
Anyhow, I've been following the new to me news for the 4BD-Toyota auto adapter eagerly. I've been searching for a few months and finally found what I beleive to be a decent deal.

I got a '96 NPR with 200,00 for $1800. It had sat for 6 months without being started and I was there when they started it. I was surprised it started up after very few cranks but only seemed to run on 2 cylinders for about 5 seconds until it smoothed out to run normally. While it was running rough, it puked out some black smoke but after that it ran clean. I assume it may have had some air in the lines and the fuel wasn't combusting properly with just two cylinders firing. Anyhow, I got the whole truck which I'll part out and keep the engine. The only other thing I was concerned about was once it was warm there seemed to be smoke coming from the breather tube by the oil filter. It didn't smell like anything burning though. It was almost like water vapor with a slight smell of oil. But not burned oil, it was Rotella T smell, like when you first open the lid on a bottle of it. I read this may have been water vapor from condensation, but figured I'd plumb your thoughts. Anyway, I'll get a compression test done and stuff and decide whether to rebuild it or not from there. Any other random stuff I ought to check?

Thanks, Michael.
(Pretty psyched to finally take a concrete step towards a diesel swap. Plan on getting engine squared away, then adapters and other odds and ends, then the Cruiser as I'm Cruiserless now.)

 

[doug720]

Michael,

Congratulations on the engine and starting down the road to a diesel!

These engines are heavy breathers, so they push a lot of air through the breather. You have 200K miles and the engine probably has more than a fresh engine.

Running rough on a cold start is not unusual if the glow system is not working correctly or if it has been sitting for a long time. 4BD2's can have head issues, so a compression check would be a good idea for this and breather pressure.

A rebuild is fairly easy and not to pricey. I'm doing one now and will have less than $1000.00 into it with factory liner kits.

I have this engine in my 60 as do many others here on mud. Check my build link below and look for flcruiser. longbow, dirtgypsy, jhill, dazed, and others I can't think of. All will be happy to answer questions as you go along. Have you been to 4BTswaps - Isuzu section? Lots of great info there also.

I think you will like the swap.

Doug

 

[mjosoba]

Doug, Thanks for the info. I've read alot on the Isuzu section over there but never joined as this was more Cruiser oriented. I'll continue to utilize it though. After the compression check I'd planned on removing the head to check the cups, valves, and areas between the valves for cracks. I'm considering just doing a rebuild while its out anyway. If I decide that, I may get some more pertinent info from you on what brands you like, etc. Thanks again, Michael

 

[ZombieResponseUnit]

We run NPR's at the farm here. The 4BD2TC is an awesome engine. I'm impressed how well it starts. Being indirect injection it must have good glow plugs to start. The factory system gives a lot of volts to the plugs for a start and then keeps pulsing at low volts until the engine is warm. I've since bypassed that system and can manually pulse the plugs if needed. Good luck on the transplant, I'll be watching for the thread.

If the engine's running well, which sounds like it is, I wouldn't bother taring it a part. These are industrial engines that are built for high mileage.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Sounds like you got a great donor. Only thing to watch on those 2T's is the heads other than that they are bullet proof. You also got the good turbo on that 96 as well.

 

[mjosoba]

@ZombieResponseUnit- I haven't decided if I should keep the factory glow timer and such or if I should switch to a simpler manual switch for whhen it needs the glow plugs. Does anyone have any preference either way?
@Wheelingnoob-I was kind of happy about that as well, as I don't intend to upgrade the turbo or anything for now. I've heard that plans like that have a way of changing though...

 

[FL cruiser]

A Ford starter solenoid mounted on the firewall works well. You can use a low amp (3amp) easy to push momentary switch and light 16 or 18 gauge wiring in the cab.

 

[mjosoba]

Good to know. Lots of tidbits to be picked up as I move along I'm sure.

 

[ZombieResponseUnit]

I'd say get rid of the factory glow plug system and rig something manually. It's a lot simpler and easy to trouble shoot (because you made it) and you can give it more glow plugs after it's started if need be. Make sure that whatever kind of switch you use drops back to the off position. I had a toggle switch in a Ford that was suppose to flip off when you let go, but it didn't. Ended up killing the batteries, after it burned the glow plugs out.

 

[doug720]

I have a manual glow plug system like FLcruiser described in my 60 with a 4BD2, and it works great.

I used a momentary push button and the Ford relay which makes a loud thunk when the relay closes or opens. This confirms when the relay is energized and acts like a safety, at least for me.

Doug

 

[mjosoba]

Awesome info guys. Thanks. Hoping to get it picked up tomorrow and start tearing it down throughout the week.

 

[Dazed]

Good luck! I will eventually write up a build thread once I get it in and running. You can find some threads on issues that I am having. Everyone here is really helpful, dont be afraid to ask questions!

 

[mjosoba]

Alright gents. And maybe lasses. I started getting ready to pull the engine today but before I did I drove it around for quite awhile. I have some vids of the exhaust when it was cool and also once it had warmed up. When it was cool the breaher tube blew out some vapors. However, once it was nice and warm it had quite a bit of blow by with almost nothing coming from the breather tube. I think it would be wise to rebuild it regardless. Just so I know what I'm starting with. (It won't let me post vids.) Anyhow, I'll keep researching rebuild kits. I know u don't want chrome liners and rings. Any recommendations are welcome.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Alright gents. And maybe lasses. I started getting ready to pull the engine today but before I did I drove it around for quite awhile. I have some vids of the exhaust when it was cool and also once it had warmed up. When it was cool the breaher tube blew out some vapors. However, once it was nice and warm it had quite a bit of blow by with almost nothing coming from the breather tube. I think it would be wise to rebuild it regardless. Just so I know what I'm starting with. (It won't let me post vids.) Anyhow, I'll keep researching rebuild kits. I know u don't want chrome liners and rings. Any recommendations are welcome.

From what i have heard its normal for this motor to breath a bit. I would do a compression test. I have just under $500 into parts for my rebuild so its not to bad if you are a smart shopper. You want hard chromed liners just not chromoly rings.

 

[Dougal]

Alright gents. And maybe lasses. I started getting ready to pull the engine today but before I did I drove it around for quite awhile. I have some vids of the exhaust when it was cool and also once it had warmed up. When it was cool the breaher tube blew out some vapors. However, once it was nice and warm it had quite a bit of blow by with almost nothing coming from the breather tube. I think it would be wise to rebuild it regardless. Just so I know what I'm starting with. (It won't let me post vids.) Anyhow, I'll keep researching rebuild kits. I know u don't want chrome liners and rings. Any recommendations are welcome.

Unless you are sure of problems, there is no point rebuilding it. The genuine pistons/rings/liners fitted are better than the aftermarket stuff.
You'll need to drive it a bit to work out the condition. Oil condition, water tightness etc.

 

[mjosoba]

As far as that's concerned, how hard is it to rebuild in vehicle? It has 200,000 miles on it and I don't know any history. When I held my hand over the oil fill it had enough blow by that I was getting oil flecks on my hand. I'm used to 7.3's and 5.9's so these are fairly new to me. Surprised if that is normal? I haven't read a lot that considers blow by to be a normal thing. But again, most of my knowledge isn't 4BD specific. I just don't want to ignore a rebuild able fix and ruin a block or something.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Im rebuilding my 4BD mainly as a percaution since I found enough issues with the recent rebuild to warrant concern. I would much rather rebuild mine now than once its in the truck and off the road for rebuild. I had thought about just getting new rings but I have been told hard chrome liners can not be honed at all with out damage. I also do not see how new rings would seat with out being run over a fresh crosshatch.

My engine had similar blow by to what you describe but had 380 psi across the board.

I saw value in knowing exactly the condition of my motor hence the full rebuild.

 

[Dougal]

As far as that's concerned, how hard is it to rebuild in vehicle? It has 200,000 miles on it and I don't know any history. When I held my hand over the oil fill it had enough blow by that I was getting oil flecks on my hand. I'm used to 7.3's and 5.9's so these are fairly new to me. Surprised if that is normal? I haven't read a lot that considers blow by to be a normal thing. But again, most of my knowledge isn't 4BD specific. I just don't want to ignore a rebuild able fix and ruin a block or something.

These engines do have a lot of blowby, they run large ring gaps stock. Large enough that you never have problems with them meeting and grabbing under high boost and high EGT's.
200,000 miles isn't high mileage for these engines.

You can't ruin these engines by running them.
They are also completely rebuildable in-situ. Apart from getting to the rear crank seal of-course. I used to think crank bearings couldn't be changed in-situ, but I've since discovered they can.

 

[mjosoba]

Good deal Dougal. That all makes sense to me. I guess for now I'll get it on a stand and get some compression numbers.

 

[mjosoba]

Hey where did all of you 4BD guys acquire your engine manuals. I seem to be hitting a wall finding one here in Wichita. Specifically 4BD2TC's. Appreciate any thoughts.