96 LX450 4Lo Problem, help... (1 Viewer)

[skywalkerguy]

Finally got my 96 LX450 120,000 mile with Lockers on Friday, paperwork is still in the process. Here's my problem, and Yes, I did try searching for help, but didn't find anything as specific. If it's out there, just point me to it.

I try shifting from 4Hi to 4Lo. The shifter moves past neutral, as it does it shows the indicator on the console and then seems to move down into 4Lo. I think I hear a slight click as I shift into 4Lo. The indicator light does not come on as I shift into 4Lo. It will move at maybe 2 MPH at high RPMs while in 4Lo. If I try make a turn, I can hear a little tire movement trying to get a grip but it's intermittent and and, won't go any faster than around 2MPH. Now, I stop, put in Park and try to shift back into 4Hi. Sometimes it won't go in, sometimes it grinds a little and then after messing with it from 4Lo back to 4Hi, it'll go back into 4Hi and it then seems to drive fine.

What direction should I head with this? I'm getting ready to order the manuals, etc but am a little green at this point. Any help or direction is greatly appreciated. You guys are more full of information than anything I've ever run across...

 

[Romer]

So you place it in N, shift the 4WD shifter from Hi to Lo and put the automatic shifter in what gear? I'm trying to figure out if you are haveing this problem with the transmission in D, 2 or L.

Also, do you have a Center diff lock switch?

 

[skywalkerguy]

I place it in Park, shift from 4Hi to 4Lo and then put it into Drive...Have not tried shifting from 4Hi to 4Lo while in Neutral or driving it in 4Lo while in 2 or L.

I have the FR, FR-RR switch to the left of the steering wheel.

Thanks Romer...

 

[Poriomania]

You should have the transmission in neutral when shifting the transfer case. That should improve the shifting.

 

[Romer]

And the switch (Lockers) to the left of the steering column is turn all the way to the left (OFF). Thats different from the CDL switch.

Are you sure the shifter knob is all the way down in Lo? Try doing it from Nuetral just to see and try D, 2 and L to see if there is any difference.

The CDL switch is an option that goes in your dash around your Hazard lights. It allows you to engage your vehicle into 4WD (from AWD) while in H. Before you tear into your Tcase, you might want to get one from CDAN, Slee or maybe a Toyota dealer. It would help isolate it it down between activating the Center differential to the H/Lo linkage to your T-case.

Plus, having the CDL will allow you to engage 4WD in High so you can use it in Snow, Bad weather and Mountain roads that don't require the lower gearing.

Good Luck

 

[skywalkerguy]

All right here's what I have so far -

Yes the Locker switch is Off, all the way to the left. Thanks for the heads up on the CDL switch. I'll do a search and see about doing this.

When I shift into 4Lo while in P, as I past neutral the A/T P light comes on and then no light as I shift into 4Lo. When I shift into 4Lo while in N, the gears do seem to engage, but no light and I haven't had a chance to drive it like this yet. Will the RPMs be higher in low gear or just slower travel with more torque? It now seems to engage into 4Lo and 4Hi while shifting in N. IOW I can get it to shift cleanly both ways. I'll drive this afternoon as see what happens. Still no light, but that may be simple? Also, tried the Lockers while in 4Lo and they still blink. But, my gut is that this vehicle never saw much action in 4Lo and probably never any action with the Lockers.

Thanks for your continued help.

 

[elmariachi]

Will the RPMs be higher in low gear or just slower travel with more torque? But, my gut is that this vehicle never saw much action in 4Lo and probably never any action with the Lockers.Thanks for your continued help.

That is the whole premise of 4WD and 4LO, to get the truck in to a lower gear range for dealing with offroad terrain. Your truck sounds like it is going into LO, but the indicator is not working.

As for the round knob, that allows you to selectively lock the rear (RR) or front and rear (FR-RR) axles and wheels, thus transferring power to all four wheels equally for maximum capability. If you want to experiement further, do it on dirt or grass and not pavement. Once you go into LO and rotate that knob, as you start turning, the locking differentials will likely lock up and stop flashing red.

You really need an owner's manual so you can read about how this system works. Using it wrong (like on pavement) can cause stress and possibly component failure. And....once you have a factory service manual you can crawl under the truck and inspect the linkages...they may be damaged from the shifter being yanked around, or they may be rusty or in need of lubrication.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Read this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=44416&highlight=Diff+Lock+Dash+Light

I had a similar problem and the info from this thread helped me fix it! All better now!

 

[skywalkerguy]

Great! I got it to shift into 4Lo today in Neutral, once a drove a little the Center Differential light and ABS light came as they should. It seems to be working fine now in 4Lo and 4Hi. Although it still seems to work at high RPMs in 4Lo. It may be that I'm just not knowing how it should sound in 4Lo. It goes and does get better as it shifts the first time.

Still could not get the Front and Rear Lockers to engage and stop blinking. Unless there's a quick way to figure this out, I'll do a search for more info on this... - Thanks.

I do have two other problems I'll search for: There's a slight whining sound as I turn the steering wheel at low speeds, could be power steering pump? And, it rained here last night, trucks under cover, but as I drove off it squealed slightly just before upshifting the first two times. Then it was fine after that. I'll search... Thanks again guys.

 

[Romer]

Did you drive a bit when you tried to engage the lockers. I am talking 20-50 feet

 

[skywalkerguy]

Yes, I did drive a little, maybe 50 feet. I can almost guarantee the Lockers have never been used, at least not in 4 or 5 years. I was afraid to drive too far or too fast with them trying to Lock. I'll try driving a little more later today.

 

[elmariachi]

Yes, I did drive a little, maybe 50 feet. I can almost guarantee the Lockers have never been used, at least not in 4 or 5 years. I was afraid to drive too far or too fast with them trying to Lock. I'll try driving a little more later today.

The lockers will lock when they detect an imbalance in the transfer of power from one wheel to the other, as if one were slipping. The best way to emulate this is by turning.....NOT ON PAVEMENT. Go get on dirt and lock them and start gently turning the wheel and driving in a circle at LOW speeds, they will lock.

As for the engine sound in LO, you do understand that by going into LO you are entering a much lower gear range, which in turn will make your engine sound like higher RPMs at slower speeds? Caution..don't go jamming through the gears or hammering the throttle in LO until you learn how it works....the engine's torque can easily break a driveline component.

 

[skywalkerguy]

I went back on some sandy/muddy logging road and here's where I'm at:

I can get it into 4Lo no problem now. When I try to Lock the RR it blinks forever, but when I switch to FR-RR the Front? seems to lock as the handling does change and the light goes on for the front but the rear keeps blinking. This was after driving in circles 3 or 4 times. Now when I turn it to FR-RR the Front light stops blinking pretty quick. Also, at one point I turned the Locker knob off and the FR light stayed on even after I switched into 4Hi. After I moved a little forward it did click and the light went out. Any other suggestions on the RR Lockers? I'm trying to order the FSM today or tomorrow.

 

[elmariachi]

knob off and the FR light stayed on even after I switched into 4Hi. After I moved a little forward it did click and the light went out. Any other suggestions on the RR Lockers? I'm trying to order the FSM today or tomorrow.

I'd keep trying with the switch on the rear only, turning slowly. If it still will not come on, I'd get the FSM and start diagnosing. The first step might be to inspect the condition of the rear axle oil. I would also look at the wiring harness where it connects to the rear actuator on the diff housing. Maybe its full of gunk and grime, or pulled loose.