96 LC, 37", Part Time Conversion, E Lockers, Chromo Shafts, Opinions?? (1 Viewer)

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So am I going to be stuck buying aftermarket wheels or are there OEM options with less back spacing than my stock LC wheels?
 
I dunno, I run spacers, 2" in the arse end, 1.5" at the nose of her, and cragar 17x9 wheels, 92 SF axle though...

If you wanna drive all the way to Calgary I'll give you a deal on 5 with 38" yoko's.
 
You can stuff 37's on stock wheels whats the problem?

I dont know, that is why I ask. One might assume that a 4" lift, 37" tires on stock wheels and axles might have some interference issues and slight loss of stability. I dont want to run spacers if I dont have to. I will be putting lots of miles on this rig and I dont want to worry about them. Also 37" tires with 16R are not common. Looking to go to a 17" wheel.
 
If you are going to wheel with 37’s you want lower transfer case gears even with 5/29s
 
If you are going to wheel with 37’s you want lower transfer case gears even with 5/29s
I disagree. Purely depends on your driving style. I'm very happy on stock t-case gears and 5.29's.
Wheel studs, Hub studs
There are other opinions out there, but I've never seen any reason to change the stock hardware. I have heard of folks who have changed it and regretted it for one reason or another. I'd suggest wheeling it and fixing things that break, or are known to break.
 
I dont know, that is why I ask. One might assume that a 4" lift, 37" tires on stock wheels and axles might have some interference issues and slight loss of stability. I dont want to run spacers if I dont have to. I will be putting lots of miles on this rig and I dont want to worry about them. Also 37" tires with 16R are not common. Looking to go to a 17" wheel.

OK with all the question why do you think you need 37's in the first place? More stuff needs addressed if you want stuff 37's, just running 37's is easy.
 
OK with all the question why do you think you need 37's in the first place? More stuff needs addressed if you want stuff 37's, just running 37's is easy.

I dont need 37s, I want 37s and have proceeded accordingly. 4" lift, caster correction plates, adjustable control arms, part time conversion, sway bar drop brackets, bump stops, brake lines, etc...... What else needs to be addressed? I am assuming that there are other members with similar setups and could recommend a wheel or approximate back spacing. I understand the benefit of lower T-case gears, I had 4:1 in my last rig and would love to do the same right now. I might pull the trigger and get the gears, but I have other things that are absolutely critical like tires and wheels that need to be addressed soon. Times ticking.
 
You can run 37’s on the 16’s & do the TC gears later if you like - I had the Interco Boggers that were ~36.5” on the factory 16’s on my old LX450/5.29’d.
J springs / L shocks & FR spacers from previous owner, I didn’t even need to adjust the steer bumpstops, took the wheels to Discount & mounted tires, brought home & installed myself.

Where’s the issue?

What is the specific 37” you’re trying to get into?
 
I disagree. Purely depends on your driving style. I'm very happy on stock t-case gears and 5.29's.

There are other opinions out there, but I've never seen any reason to change the stock hardware. I have heard of folks who have changed it and regretted it for one reason or another. I'd suggest wheeling it and fixing things that break, or are known to break.
 
Ya if like fire roads you be fine
 
Ya if like fire roads you be fine
Come run some of our fire roads.

I know folks who run pretty technical trails on stock gears and 37's. It takes a bit more skill than it would with lower gears, but it's pretty hard to stall an 80. With anything near a stock final drive ratio it's damn near impossible, and 37's with 5.29's are lower than that. You might get a little more control by going even lower, but it comes with sacrifices as well. The difference in ratio between stock t-case low range and the aftermarket low range gear set isn't significant enough to dramatically change the abilities of the vehicle.
 
Huh? I beg to differ.
That's your right. The slightly lower gears (3.1:1 vs. 2.49:1) make things easier, but don't give the truck a significant increase in ability. Even on stock axle gears I never was stopped due to lack of torque. Maybe with larger than 37" tires and 5.29's the lower low range gear would make things possible that are otherwise impossible with that setup, but I'd imagine they'd have to be pretty big tires.
 
Try your truck on the Con or the Dusy then come back and say that lower transfer case gears and 5.29's in the pumpkins don't make a difference.
 
I just got back from the con. My reg 37’s 5:29s & the lower Tran gears. It walked right up the soup bowl to the amazement of onlookers. I don’t think I could’ve done it without the lower gears it was video and will be on YouTube soon
 
I won't argue that lower t-case gears make a difference, they do. But are they an absolute "MUST HAVE"? Not in my opinion. Will it give better control, of course. But as nothing more than a voice of dissent I have been through the Rubicon in an 80 and do a fair bit of difficult trails with my 80 and have never had lower t-case gears and it's never been a problem.

Sure there is the idea of "while you're in there" to swap the gears if the t-case is out and apart for a part-time conversion, I get that and support it, but also realize some are working on a budget and there are other items that might be more important even if it means some inconvenience later to pull the case again. The T-case does come out pretty easily though so I don't see it as a huge deal.

As for wheel/tire combinations, there are very few options now for the 16" wheels if you want to go 37's. The Interco Trxus is one of the few still available for a 16" wheel. Nearly all other options require at least a 17" wheel.

Frankly, if this were my build, I wouldn't have bothered with the part-time kit and possibly done the t-case gear instead (I know, the same "while you're in there" argument) purely for the juggling of budget. I'd also upgrade the rear control arms. I'd have gone a different route with the suspension but that's personal preference.

For the winch, you can do a better winch the the Warn 8000 for similar money by going with a COMEUP 9.5 rs. I've seen the 8000 on some 80s in the past bog down on pulls. I've had no such issues winching with my ComeUp winch. There is also a 12.5 available.
 
I sure the con is Doable without the lower transfer case gears. while you were on the run did you try the Soup Bowl obstacle that’s what I was referring to but I thought I couldn’t of made without the lower gears.
 

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