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96 Land Cruiser problems. Can anyone help?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Big Top GT, Dec 22, 2003.

  1. Big Top GT

    Big Top GT

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    I have a 96 Land Cruiser my father in law bought with a salvage title... It's got some frame damage and is in generally poor condition. I think he paid about $9k for it per his brother in law's crappy advise... sigh..

    Anyway... :/

    It needs what I think are axle seals out back (both sides, i think) and a bad CV shaft up front...

    It also binds up really badly when you try to move the truck and turn at the same time. It's so bad you can't idle through a turn. The car won't move until you step on the gas.

    Is that normal and are these things I can do myself? I'm pretty mechanically inclined (I'll be installing the blower on my Cobra soon) so I can do just about anything.. Do I need special tools or anything?

    Lastly, where can I get door panels and tan leather seats to replace the ones that are badly torn? (or parts in general)

    Thanks for looking guys.. I know there's a Land Cruiser forum but there's not much traffic over there.

    Thanks again guys,
    Alan
     
  2. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Binding at a turn could be real bad birfieds but more likely the center diff is locked in the t-case or a bad VC in the T-case.

    Put the t-case in Low and see if you can hear the center diff lock and drive to see if it binds the same.
     
  3. Big Top GT

    Big Top GT

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    [quote author=Nimrod link=board=2;threadid=9110;start=msg79228#msg79228 date=1072135188]
    Binding at a turn could be real bad birfieds but more likely the center diff is locked in the t-case or a bad VC in the T-case.

    Put the t-case in Low and see if you can hear the center diff lock and drive to see if it binds the same.

    [/quote]

    What's a "birfied"

    What do you mean "VC"?

    Am I looking for binding or no binding (less?) when I put it in low?

    I'm not all that familliar with 4wd vehicles...

    Thanks!
    Alan
     
  4. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    Birfield is the CV joint. VC is a viscous coupling, which resides in the transfer case. You might see if there is a Cruiser club in your area and get some local assistance.
     
  5. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    A birfield is a Constant velocity joint. It's in the steering knuckle housing rather than in a boot like most cars.

    A VC is a viscous coupling. It keeps the center dif able to move the axles at different speeds. It's only in AWD vehicles. (All Wheel Drive)
     
  6. cary

    cary

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    The short answer is it is not normal.

    The VC is the viscous coupler, think of it as a limited slip (or posi unit) between the front and rear axles, when you turn it allows the front and rear wheels to turn at different speeds. If the VC fails it can act as a spool (same as when you engage 4 low) and cause problems when you turn. Also, not that they should work in high range, confirm that if there is a locker switch on the left side of the sterring wheel that it is turned counterclockwise.

    Cary
     
  7. Big Top GT

    Big Top GT

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    Thanks guys.. i really appreciate your input.

    If it was my Cobra I'd have it fixed already.. lol..

    Do I need any special tools for the repair? (other than a press for some of the bearings.)

    Also, could the frame being bent be causing the binding?

    Alan
     
  8. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Now that I am NIMROD spelling english will be hard. :D

    Alen, when you put the t-case in L do you get a light on dash showing the center diff is locked?
    Do you have a switch left of the steering wheel that you can lock the Front and Rear Diff?
    On hard pavement while truning round and round, which tires seem bind?
    Do they bind or pop?
    Go to gravel p-lot and do the same in H and L and let me know what happens.
     
  9. Big Top GT

    Big Top GT

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    I'll have access to the car tomorrow. I'll let you know..

    Thanks guys,
    Alan
     
  10. Big Top GT

    Big Top GT

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    And, now that I think about it, there IS a rotary knob you can twist to lock the front and rear diff. In either position the car acts exactly the same.

    I don't think the switch/knob does anything at this point.

    Also, there's a constant "click, click, click" coming from what i think is the driver's side front tire. It's worse at low speeds.

    I'll have to check to see what it does when you're turning though.

    Alan
     
  11. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Alan,
    One of your questions was about tools. Since it's beginning to sound like one (or both) of the birfs are shot you can reference here to see if you have these tools. It's unlikely that you will have a 54mm hub socket and some of the others might be new to you. You may also be able to determine if it is a job you're up to doing by yourself.

    For starters, be sure you keep that rotary knob in the "Off" position until you can gain more knowldedge about the special capabilities of that truck. After you get it fixed we can begin testing the diff locks; center, rear, and front.

    The rear axle seals are an easy job; it's a full floater if you've ever worked on one before. There are several recent posts of the SST to tighten the rear hub nut. The posts also show some home made tools and advice others have on getting the correct torque setting for the rear hub.

    >>Also, could the frame being bent be causing the binding?<<

    Dunno. Post pics.

    -B-
     
  12. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    The Front Rear diff lock switch wont lock till you are in Low range.
     
  13. lagwagon

    lagwagon

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    I think what you should do is sell it to me :D :D and save yourself the hassle!