95 FZJ80 overheated - thoughts? (1 Viewer)

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eimkeith

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Friday afternoon my wife came rolling into the driveway (I was waiting for her to arrive so we could head to the mountains for the weekend) telling me through the passenger window that the FZJ80 was overheating. When she turned it off, coolant steam started coming from the cowl area, and the gauge was pegged above the red. I hopped in, turned the ignition back on, ran the heater/fan on high to try to circulate the coolant, then popped the hood to see what was going on.

One of the small hoses must have split (or the clamps failed under pressure) as there was steam coming from the rear of the head and a slow drip onto the ground at the rear of the engine. She said the temp had risen to red and she stopped at the gas station 1/2 mile from the house, shut it off, let it cool, and then drove home from there when she couldn't get me on the phone. The hose leak occurred as she coasted into the driveway, so it probably isn't the cause of the overheating issue.

The head and upper radiator hose were both really hot - I thought I was hearing oil boiling in the head, but it could have been coolant boiling after the hose started leaking, I suppose. Lots of ticking/cracking noises (it was hot, as I said.) The overflow tank was dry, and the lower radiator hose was cool and empty when I squeezed it, and the thermostat housing was likewise cool to the touch. I filled the coolant reservoir twice with cool water and the radiator drew it all in.

Meanwhile, the gauge came back down to reasonable temps, so I started the engine to see what head/head gasket damages had occurred, and it sounded and ran normally. Additionally, my wife never experienced any loss of power or rough running indicative of a head/head gasket issue. Exhaust remained clear.

When we returned from the mountains this evening (we took another vehicle, of course), I popped the hood on the 80 and the reservoir was empty again. I removed the radiator cap and could not see coolant, so I temporarily filled the radiator and reservoir again, and started the truck. It idled, revved, and sounded normal, without any trace of coolant in the exhaust, so I'm hoping we dodged a bullet (I bought it with a blown head gasket, if you guys recall)

So here are my questions: Do these radiators get blocked over time? It seems that the hot coolant in the head wasn't making it down to the radiator outlet/intake hose to the thermostat? Would a thermostat failing closed mimic a blocked radiator? Is there a chance that the water pump can fail in such a way that it isn't pumping, with no external sign of failure (noise, or otherwise)?

I'm likely going to shotgun the cooling system, as this is my wife's daily and our usual family vacation vehicle, but it looks like the radiators are NLA from Toyota?

Your thoughts?
 
Friday afternoon my wife came rolling into the driveway (I was waiting for her to arrive so we could head to the mountains for the weekend) telling me through the passenger window that the FZJ80 was overheating. When she turned it off, coolant steam started coming from the cowl area, and the gauge was pegged above the red. I hopped in, turned the ignition back on, ran the heater/fan on high to try to circulate the coolant, then popped the hood to see what was going on.

One of the small hoses must have split (or the clamps failed under pressure) as there was steam coming from the rear of the head and a slow drip onto the ground at the rear of the engine. She said the temp had risen to red and she stopped at the gas station 1/2 mile from the house, shut it off, let it cool, and then drove home from there when she couldn't get me on the phone. The hose leak occurred as she coasted into the driveway, so it probably isn't the cause of the overheating issue.

The head and upper radiator hose were both really hot - I thought I was hearing oil boiling in the head, but it could have been coolant boiling after the hose started leaking, I suppose. Lots of ticking/cracking noises (it was hot, as I said.) The overflow tank was dry, and the lower radiator hose was cool and empty when I squeezed it, and the thermostat housing was likewise cool to the touch. I filled the coolant reservoir twice with cool water and the radiator drew it all in.

Meanwhile, the gauge came back down to reasonable temps, so I started the engine to see what head/head gasket damages had occurred, and it sounded and ran normally. Additionally, my wife never experienced any loss of power or rough running indicative of a head/head gasket issue. Exhaust remained clear.

When we returned from the mountains this evening (we took another vehicle, of course), I popped the hood on the 80 and the reservoir was empty again. I removed the radiator cap and could not see coolant, so I temporarily filled the radiator and reservoir again, and started the truck. It idled, revved, and sounded normal, without any trace of coolant in the exhaust, so I'm hoping we dodged a bullet (I bought it with a blown head gasket, if you guys recall)

So here are my questions: Do these radiators get blocked over time? It seems that the hot coolant in the head wasn't making it down to the radiator outlet/intake hose to the thermostat? Would a thermostat failing closed mimic a blocked radiator? Is there a chance that the water pump can fail in such a way that it isn't pumping, with no external sign of failure (noise, or otherwise)?

I'm likely going to shotgun the cooling system, as this is my wife's daily and our usual family vacation vehicle, but it looks like the radiators are NLA from Toyota?

Your thoughts?

OK, I found some references to the radiator getting blocked/partially blocked from sludge... Although, I'd've assumed that would be a gradually worsening condition (whereas this seems to have occurred more or less suddenly)?
 
Sounds like PHH, mine exploded in grand fashion the moment I pulled into my driveway haha, didn't peg the gauge but it made a show of it. Could be rear heater garbage too, but location you described sounds like PHH to me.
 
As far as I know the radiator is still available from Mr. T. I bought one last Summer for my '94 and I think they are the same. For my '96 I opted for the Koyorad C1917 which I got from Amazon for little over $300. The quality is outstanding and the only difference between this and the Mr. T radiator was the strip of foam to seal the air gaps (Easy to add on the Koyorad). There are less expensive models available on Rockauto but the Koyorad is top notch.
 
As far as I know the radiator is still available from Mr. T. I bought one last Summer for my '94 and I think they are the same. For my '96 I opted for the Koyorad C1917 which I got from Amazon for little over $300. The quality is outstanding and the only difference between this and the Mr. T radiator was the strip of foam to seal the air gaps (Easy to add on the Koyorad). There are less expensive models available on Rockauto but the Koyorad is top notch.
Thanks - that's super-helpful!
 
First step in this for me is to get a real temp gauge. cheapest being OBD port reader. The factory gauge has large dead zone where it doesn't mover. Form like 180 to 220. Helps to know what is causing the rise in temp.
 
These regs chew through head gaskets like lizard people chew through @RFB s YouTube channel, censoring his covid truth
 
Any oil in the coolant? Would make froth or foam. The HG doesn't usually fail like that for us, but possible.

+1 on getting an OBD gauge hooked up to monitor actual temps while driving. When the HG started to fail on my 97 Cruiser I would see odd spikes over normal running temps, like a quick spike to 214*F when it normally ran 186-192*F max. My gasket failed at the rear of #6 cylinder and was pushing coolant into the exhaust. The problem was hidden for the most part because I was running distilled water for a time and it was being boiled off in the exhaust, but I could tell from the overflow needing refilled regularly that there was an issue.

As far as radiators go, I'm running the cheap knockoff radiators in two of the 80s and they work just fine at keeping the trucks cool with normal operating temps at ~186*F
 
If you replaced the HG with a factory HG, then you may be OK.

I would check the radiator cap for sure, but I'd be willing to bet there was a hose failure (rear heater, PHH, hard lines) and lost all the coolant there.

I would have NEVER allowed cold water to be sucked into a hot radiator like that due to sudden changes in temperature, however.

I had my radiator explode due to a sudden high pressure situation when a fan belt broke, locked the water pump, and the radiator cap didn't relieve due to sludge. The HG had been done 50K mile prior to the failure and I have since put 100K on the truck with no issues. You just may be OK.

I would do a complete hose change out, the radiator may or may not need it, depending on residual sludge.

Fill it with water and do a pressure test on the system to determine leak points.
 
OK, I found some references to the radiator getting blocked/partially blocked from sludge... Although, I'd've assumed that would be a gradually worsening condition (whereas this seems to have occurred more or less suddenly)?

Radiators can sludge up over time.
They can also sludge up FAST if you mix incompatible coolant types, such as adding green to Toyota red (don't ask me how I know)

Sounds like you may have dodged a bullet. Sounds like you're wife did the best thing in the circumstances. Stopping and letting it cool may have saved it.

Definitely sounds like the PHH is leaking. Whether this is the result of an overheat, or the cause is a bit of a guess.

I'd be inclined to change the oil and filter, suspect hoses, thermostat, run a flush through the whole thing and see what happens.
Test the thermostat before installing.

The water pump is unlikely to fail. Though it is a possibility.

Ps
Running the heater and fan without the engine running is not going to circulate coolant
 
If you replaced the HG with a factory HG, then you may be OK.

I had my radiator explode due to a sudden high pressure situation when a fan belt broke, locked the water pump, and the radiator cap didn't relieve due to sludge. The HG had been done 50K mile prior to the failure and I have since put 100K on the truck with no issues. You just may be OK.

I would do a complete hose change out, the radiator may or may not need it, depending on residual sludge.
Have you tested the thermostat to see if it opens ?
Good to hear; I did the HG job a couple of years ago - all factory parts. All hoses were in good shape at the time, although clearly at least one is leaking now (as evidenced by the steam escaping in the driveway)

I keep circling back to the radiator based on the full & hot upper hose, cool radiator fins, and relatively empty lower hose. Certainly seems to suggest a blockage.

Nothing has been tested yet; will dig into it later this week (or next, as my weekends are booked out of town for the foreseeable future)

Radiators can sludge up over time.
They can also sludge up FAST if you mix incompatible coolant types, such as adding green to Toyota red (don't ask me how I know)


The water pump is unlikely to fail. Though it is a possibility.

Ps
Running the heater and fan without the engine running is not going to circulate coolant

Coolant was replaced with the same Prestone that the PO used at the time of HG replacement, so probably good there, although flushing the cooling system is certainly in order now!

The thinking on the electric fan was to disperse heat in the cooling system, which it did rather well. It certainly doesn't pump fluid, but definitely better than being completely at the mercy of heat soak when there's no mechanical pumping available. 🤷
 
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As far as I know the radiator is still available from Mr. T. I bought one last Summer for my '94 and I think they are the same.
The factory radiator for the 91, to 94 came with a 3 row brass core. The 95 to 97 factory radiator came with a 2 row aluminum core. I just replaced my radiator in my 94 and both factory radiators were still available from Toyota
First step in this for me is to get a real temp gauge. cheapest being OBD port reader. The factory gauge has large dead zone where it doesn't mover. Form like 180 to 220. Helps to know what is causing the rise in temp.
Below are a few links that may help with his temp gauge problem.

 
Your PHH or FHH is steaming off your coolant. If it's not these, it's nearby. Replace coolant hoses.
 
How does the engine sound now?

After a much worse overheat in my LandCruiser, it developed a loud knock from the PS head area which turned out to be scored cylinders #4 & #5. The head gasket (~50k miles old) was still going strong, and it got HOT. Trust me, you'll know the sound if it's there - it's unmistakable as a serious problem.

From what you describe, it sounds like you may have lucked out. I read a bunch of search topics here and went with a TYC1918 aftermarket radiator off of Amazon for $130 and even though I had to supply My own sealing foam, it's been a solid performer. I live in the Sonoran Desert and the truck sees 118-120F regularly.

Do not skimp on the Radiator Cap - just add it to your parts order from Toyota. You'll feel better after replacing it, and my OEM never vented, which led to the steam explosion. (*Don't ask...).
 
How does the engine sound now?

After a much worse overheat in my LandCruiser, it developed a loud knock from the PS head area which turned out to be scored cylinders #4 & #5. The head gasket (~50k miles old) was still going strong, and it got HOT. Trust me, you'll know the sound if it's there - it's unmistakable as a serious problem.

From what you describe, it sounds like you may have lucked out. I read a bunch of search topics here and went with a TYC1918 aftermarket radiator off of Amazon for $130 and even though I had to supply My own sealing foam, it's been a solid performer. I live in the Sonoran Desert and the truck sees 118-120F regularly.

Do not skimp on the Radiator Cap - just add it to your parts order from Toyota. You'll feel better after replacing it, and my OEM never vented, which led to the steam explosion. (*Don't ask...).

honestly, it sounds great. I'm tempted to drive it the 2 miles to my shop, actually. (but I'm naturally unlucky, lol)

My primary concern is finding the actual culprit. I know everyone likes the PHH as public enemy #1, but the radiator stuff has my attention at the moment...
 

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