95 fzj 80 Coolant Leak (1 Viewer)

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I got my 80 about two months ago and I've already put 5k on it. It has run like a top. I'm really stoked!

However, I'm noticing that I'm losing coolant. I first noticed when I lifted the hood and there was a little spray seemingly from the radiator cap. I read that this can happen, so I wasn't too concerned.

I topped the coolant off and watched it again. I had a 750 mile trip today. About 1/3 of the way in, I popped it and saw the same spray, but coolant level was still alright. A few hundred miles later, I popped it and there was no new spray, but the coolant level was approaching low.

I'm not smelling coolant burning, nor do I see any obvious large leaks.

I've checked other threads, but I am fairly new to DIY auto work, so some of the acronyms immediately went over my head.

Any help or guidance is appreciated.
 

clx16

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I recommend a new toyota radiator cap. It shouldn't spray out. Also, a cheap obdII scanner, bluetooth or direct connect would be good to monitor temperature, don't rely on the dash temp gauge as if it starts moving to hot it is already overheating. Also once you replace the cap keep checking for spray and look hard to make sure you are accurate one where it is coming from. I've found loose hoses etc but tracking them down isnt always easy.
 
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I lifted the hood and there was a little spray seemingly from the radiator cap. I read that this can happen, so I wasn't too concerned.
100% incorrect. The coolant system must hold pressure up to 13 or so psi as regulated by the cap. Excess pressure bleeds off into the overflow reservoir. Under normal conditions you should NEVER see liquid coolant outside of the cooling system.

With a COLD NON-RUNNING motor, the RADIATOR should be filled to the tippy top of the filler neck.
The OVERFLOW BOTTLE should be filled to the "full" mark on the side.

The coolant level should rise and fall in the overflow bottle with engine temperature. When the motor is hot, the level in the overflow will be higher than when the motor is cool. This is normal operation.
 
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Listen to Jon, above.

Where exactly are you seeing the "spray"? What is your temp gauge reading after the engine warms up to normal operating temp (after about 5 or so minutes of driving)? You don't necessarily need to be immediately concerned, because it could be a number of things, but the cooling systems on these things have to be taken care of. A little more info might help you get some better answers.
 
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@clintb I also had this problem. You can replace the radiator cap but the fzj80 doctors prescription was as followed:

  • replace pesky heater hose
  • replace radiator cap
  • replace heater valve (orange brown color appearing (pic below)

I am going to follow up with replacing about 7 hoses, thermostat and about 4 o rings when I switch to Toyota red. you may want to ask yourself how in depth you want to go on this, bandaid approach or nip it in the butt permanently. Use only oem genuine Toyota parts.

669BD01E-14DE-4B91-8823-65722B922545.jpeg
 
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I don't doubt that Ip2k has properly diagnosed his problem and found a solution. But the OP's description appeared - to me at least - too vague to start throwing parts at it. He really needs to hammer down on exactly where the "spray" is coming from. For instance, if the spray is at the front of the engine bay next to the radiator, then replacing the PHH (while a good general maintenance idea) isn't going to solve it, since it's not in the same vicinity.

I have experience with spray coming from near the radiator, and it had nothing to do with the rad cap. It was a blown head gasket causing coolant to boil out of the overflow tank.

Just cautioning not to go down the road of replacing parts without knowing the cause. Been there, done that.
 
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yea you are right about the “throwing parts” at it mentality.

If HG is the concern, the best way to confirm that is to have some of the oil sent to blackstone labs for analysis so they can see if in fact the coolant is mixing with the head gasket. If not, then that can be ruled out.

 
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Listen to Jon, above.

Where exactly are you seeing the "spray"? What is your temp gauge reading after the engine warms up to normal operating temp (after about 5 or so minutes of driving)? You don't necessarily need to be immediately concerned, because it could be a number of things, but the cooling systems on these things have to be taken care of. A little more info might help you get some better answers.
Thanks, guys. The "spray" appeared on the underside of the hood nearly directly above the radiator cap. In addition, there was some coolant in the engine bay that appeared to have come from that area. There was also a small amount of coolant gathered and pooled on the top of the radiator.

After warming up, the temperature gauge is at dead center or just a touch below center.

Thanks for the follow up q's and requests for clarification. I did go ahead and replace the radiator cap as suggested above, but have not driven since.
 
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i have used less evidence to justify more parts than anyone has suggested above ha.
Our trucks are not remotely near new, anything rubber must be replaced, why put it off when I (or the original poster) can do it now and reap the benefits while enjoying my rig ya know? Lol - oh yea I got the parts cannon for sure!
 
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I agree with the above, but the OP didn't mention the shape of his hoses. For all any one of us knows, they could have been replaced (maybe even several times) by the PO. I guess I'm just trying not to make any assumptions. At any rate, hope his new radiator cap solves the issue.
 
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Closing the loop here. Replaced the radiator cap and that seems to have done the trick. Let’s hope the rear lift gate, the occasional brake fade, the non functioning passenger seat and whatever else I find next are just as easy to diagnose and fix 😆😂🤣
 

clx16

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My non-functioning seats turned out that the plastic caps that hold the wormgear in place were spinning. I screwed them in to the point where they worked again and then created a set screw to keep them from backing out again. been working great for 3.5 years now. Previous owner gave me extra seats which also had the same issue haha. took me an hour to figure it out and fix. Now it would be a 20min fix.
 

bencallaway

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Glad you seem to have found the solution.

yea you are right about the “throwing parts” at it mentality.

If HG is the concern, the best way to confirm that is to have some of the oil sent to blackstone labs for analysis so they can see if in fact the coolant is mixing with the head gasket. If not, then that can be ruled out.


While blackstone labs is great and they can give you a definitive answer, the best way to confirm is with an exhaust gas test. Its the next step after water pump, pesky, radiator cap, etc.
 

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