94 value now to baseline (1 Viewer)

[TankTheLC]

Just trying to decide where to start with all the leaks.
Opinions on spraying this down with easy off and pressure washing ? Before getting started

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Mines leaking just as bad, we probably have the same issue (Front oil pump leaking, not looking forward to it). I was able to completely and easily clean it by spraying foaming gunk engine cleaner x2 underneath and then washing it all off. It pulls it off really nice. Although the leak is fast it gets gross again really quick. Let me know what you find.

 

[Jason YY]

Began with a quick oil change , removed the Napa gold filter , installed Toyota 90915-YZZD3 with some fresh 10-30.
Interesting observation on the plug wires 93 build date,
Like C Dan says you have to eat a elephant one bite at a time.

 

[BigAxeJack]

Most people start by replacing all fluids, first to hit a reset on them, second to take a look at how much was in there and what it looked like.

Then start with the cooling system. R&R the heater valve, thermostat, rad hoses, etc. Check fan clutch. Find and fix any and all coolant leaks. Consider a more accurate coolant temp monitoring system (koso, OBD1 scanner, Raventai mod, etc). I'd put the cooling system high on your PM list, definitely above your oil leaks. Oil leaks are messy, coolant leaks are deadly.

Just my 2c.

 

[Jason YY]

That is my plan - I have the one know coolant leak. Haven’t actually tried to find it’s source, it definitely is a steady leak. Dry it up , it redevelops the puddle in a few miles of driving

 

[AndrewInf]

My bet would be water bypass tube/water bypass outlet o rings. You can search the part numbers (bold) and find a few threads on Mud about the job

It's a pretty straightforward R&R, just need to drain the coolant (as much as will come out of the radiator petcock, no need to crack open the block or anything unless you want to flush/change coolant).

Water bypass tube: 16268-66010 (need 1, $9.37 when I looked a few months ago)

O rings: 90301-29006 (need 3, $3.82/ea when I looked a few months ago)

You may be lucky and able to get the bypass tube out without damaging it and re-use it. Mine was mangled from someone wrenching on it in years past, looked like they used vise grips to pull it out so I replaced it, I wasn't confident the mangled tube would allow for a good seal. Mine was tough to remove anyway, so once I saw it was mangled I just used a screwdriver to dig into the side a little and pry it up bit by bit.

The water bypass outlet is another thing you may want to consider consider (the outer part), mine was fine once I cleaned it up but others have posted about finding pitting/cracking that made it impossible to get a good seal with the water bypass tube.

Water bypass outlet: 16351-66010 (MAY need 1, maybe reuse, $32.57 when I looked a few months ago)

Once you have the parts it's easy. Just make sure to use a torque wrench on reinstall and don't overtorque the bolts. I'm not 100% sure on the torque spec so you should look elsewhere, don't want to tell you the wrong thing. Good luck!

 

[Jason YY]

Is this the part with the arrow ?

Water bypass outlet: 16351-66010 (MAY need 1, maybe reuse, $32.57 when I looked a few months ago)

 

[rc51kid]

Most people start by replacing all fluids, first to hit a reset on them, second to take a look at how much was in there and what it looked like.

Then start with the cooling system. R&R the heater valve, thermostat, rad hoses, etc. Check fan clutch. Find and fix any and all coolant leaks. Consider a more accurate coolant temp monitoring system (koso, OBD1 scanner, Raventai mod, etc). I'd put the cooling system high on your PM list, definitely above your oil leaks. Oil leaks are messy, coolant leaks are deadly.

Just my 2c.

Solid advice. All fluids. Then full coolant system while the radiator is out do the oil pump and front main seal.

Then do stuff one area at a time. Maybe front end. Do full birfeild along with new wheel bearings, rotors and pads. Maybe new calipers. Then rear pads, rotors, wheel bearings and axle seals. If you think like that you don't have to get into the same area over and over.

 

[AndrewInf]

Yep, that's the water bypass outlet

 

[SmokingRocks]

Coool rig. I love my cloth seats they outlast leather 100:1. Wicked deal.

 

[CaptClose]

Great find and an even better price.

Do NOT spray oven cleaner to degrease the undercarriage. It’ll eat right through any painted surface and you be left with bare unprotected metal when your done. Just pressure wash it real well. It’ll clean up nice.

The leaks are common. Anytime you buy an unknown truck, I always recommend doing a complete cooling system refresh. This would include:

Radiator
Water Pump
Thermostat
Fan clutch
All hoses
All belts
And new coolant of course

While you have the front torn down, replace the three most common oil seal leaks

Front crank seal
Oil pump cover seal
Distributor O-ring

Might as well do plugs, wires, cap and rotor while you’re there too.

Then start baselining all other fluids. Once you get to this point, you still won’t even be close to the amount you should have paid for this truck if you hadn’t tripped over this lucky somehow.

Good luck and have fun man!

 

[Jason YY]

Not the first on my list, but it needed addressing. New positive terminal and fuse able link.

 

[Jason YY]

One of the easiest upgrades so far , dealer cut key from the VIN.
It came with 3 keys one worn Toyota 2 other off brand. They all work, not smooth but they did start and unlock the car.
The VIN cut key works way better smooth no hang ups in the tumblers.

 

[amgraham]

One of the easiest upgrades so far , dealer cut key from the VIN.
It came with 3 keys one worn Toyota 2 other off brand. They all work, not smooth but they did start and unlock the car.
The VIN cut key works way better smooth no hang ups in the tumblers.

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That was one of the best things I did when I got mine is new dealer cut keys. They couldn't pull mine from the VIN though but they were able to cut it from the code on the passenger door key cylinder.