I bought two of the same o2 sensors, Both oem Toyota Denso and Toyota ntk. My question is. Is the only different between the two is the heat shield on one and the other has a snap on hold down?
94 tlc Bank 1 and 2 o2 sensor difference (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TtyTyler
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DENSO NOT OEM for 93-94 it is for 95-97
forum.ih8mud.com
93 Land Cruiser O2 sensor location...FYI
Hi All, I've searched all over to find out where the 02 sensors were located on my 93 TLC and finally found them. I wanted to quickly add it here, just in case someone else had a hard time finding them. They're side by side just before the cat and I'll be replacing them with these Bosch 02...
forum.ih8mud.com
From another thread: "The original was NTK, part# 24044 has a long lead, will fit both, or 24080 is the correct short lead for bank 2."
I replaced a bad bank 2 sensor (heater circuit had less than 1 ohm) with the NTK24044 on my 94 after I got the error code 28. With the NTK 24044 installed I found that the vehicle did not run well (rough and poor acceleration). I replaced the NTK24044 with the NTK24080 and the vehicle runs well. But for some reason I'm still getting the error code 28 after engine gets hot. I installed the NTK24044 in bank 1 about one year ago and it's been working fine. Rockauto price of NTK24080 is higher than NTK24044. The Rockauto site says that the NTK24080 is for the Canadian spec vehicle. I purchased my vehicle in California back in 94 and I'm actually very confused.
Its my understanding that both sensors are identical only different in wire lengths. Is your wiring good? Can you verify voltage patterns at the Diagnostic port? Clean connections?
Wiring lengths are slightly different as well as sleeves for the wires. The finish of the 24080 looks identical to Toyota sensors. You can buy a 24080 for less than $100 from Amazon. I do not know how to check the voltage pattern. Do I need an oscilloscope?
Technically sure, but if you have a multimeter you should get an idea of where its at. I forget what terminal it is, but it is in the FSM.
You need to change both sensors at the same time replacing only one and using a very old O2 sensor with the new can produce bed idel
Thanks for mentioning that. Yes, I read that somewhere on the forum and I actually bought the NTK24044, 24080 and Toyota's 89465-69115. The NTK 24044 in bank 1, the NTK24080 in bank 2 seem to give me the best rides. The 69115 in bank 2 is also okay. Both combinations still give me the error code 28. The NTK24044 in bank 2 gives me a rough ride.
Are you sure your wiring isn't messed up?
I checked wiring. Connectors are all original and in good shape. I did continuity test on all 4 signal wires (2x2 sensors) from connectors to the ECM. Checked heater circuit voltage and they are in spec. I get the error code 28 after engine gets hot/normal operating temperature. The vehicle runs very well both before and after the CEL comes on. I'm considering purchasing and testing a Denso sensor, but the problem is likely caused by something else other than the O2 sensor.
Any update? You figure out what the issue is? I'm about to replace my O2 sensors and want to plan ahead. Thanks!
I got rid of the error code 28 some time ago. I purchased a Toyota, NTK and Denso sensors and found that they are all made by NTK. They all seem to work fine.
DrMontyBean
Don't Follow Me, I'm Lost
Was the O2 sensor the problem? Also where did you source the O2 sensors from.
Any tips/tricks to not break the studs off ??
Have seriously rough idle, and TOYOBD1 shows that Bank 1 O2 sensor is crapped out full lean.
Any tips/tricks to not break the studs off ??
Have seriously rough idle, and TOYOBD1 shows that Bank 1 O2 sensor is crapped out full lean.
I first had the error code 28 and the problem was a bad driver side O2 sensor. Its heater circuit was open. Even after I replaced it with an NTK purchased from Rock Auto, I was still getting the error code 28, but it was intermittent this time. I purchased more O2 sensors thinking there could be some incompatibilities: one from Toyota and one from Denso. I found that they are all made by NTK and differences were the wire length, crimping and protective sleeve. They all still gave me the intermittent error code 28. Then, I found a cracked vacuum hose under the intake plenum. I believe I was getting an intermittent vacuum leak which led to the intermittent error code 28. Error code 28 is gone after I replace all vacuum tubing. Unfortunately, I'm now getting the error code 25 and working on it for a while.
I had no rusts and issues removing the nuts on my O2 sensor. I read somewhere in this forum that some people had to use a torch and vise-grip to successfully remove rusty nuts.
I also had rough idle at first and it was a bad EGR valve. It's needle was stuck and leaking. If you have rough idle when the engine is cold, there could be other issues.
I had no rusts and issues removing the nuts on my O2 sensor. I read somewhere in this forum that some people had to use a torch and vise-grip to successfully remove rusty nuts.
I also had rough idle at first and it was a bad EGR valve. It's needle was stuck and leaking. If you have rough idle when the engine is cold, there could be other issues.
Lots of penetrating oil in advance. Gently take an air chisel to the side of the nuts (not to loosen or break them, just to disturb the rust bonds). Extra credit for heat. Then take the most snug 6 point socket that will fit, metric or otherwise (I like to find one that needs a little tapping with the hammer to slide on). Use a small hand which so as to not over torque, if it's ready to go it won't take much.
In the past month I replaced the 02 sensors on a 94 and a 97 this way (no heat) and with patience I had removed these nuts in 1 piece leaving perfect studs. I did have to pull the downpipes on the 94.
People also have reported good luck with nut remover tools, search will bring that up.
