‘94 JDM Land Cruiser has bad transmission, just purchased, I do not know what to do. Please help

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Agreed. However, have we real ruled out the drive flanges? I feel like this is going to be much more simple than a roached transmission. Those A442’s last for a long time.
 
6 pages of talk :rolleyes: and can't get the OP to do a basic diagnostic🤷‍♂️

I say let him burn his money !!!
 
6 pages of talk :rolleyes: and can't get the OP to do a basic diagnostic🤷‍♂️

I say let him burn his money !!!
About to say the same thing. How are we on page 7 and op still hasn't gone and locked the center diff and driven down the street. This isn't rocket science stuff. Just do it. Nothing bad is gonna happen.
 
I agree, anxious to find out the results. But as an owner of the same JDM configuration-
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I appreciate all the advice and input incase I ever run into this situation.
 
He’s probably just low on fluid. Lol
 
I appreciate the help and I am doing the best I can. I am restoring 2 homes at the same time on my own plus I have my own business seperate from restoring the 2 homes. I am extremely business and I am trying to check the truck when I can. Like I said I appreciated the help. Anyway, I drove the truck a couple of times about 30-40 yards with the center diff. locked. It performed fine. Also, the last couple of days I have drove it I have not had the sluggish acceleration issue, but I only drive for about 8-10 miles on freeway and not a lot of in city driving. I know when it gets hot after driving for awhile is when I experienced the extreme sluggish acceleration every time I came to a light or traffic.
 
I appreciate the help and I am doing the best I can. I am restoring 2 homes at the same time on my own plus I have my own business seperate from restoring the 2 homes. I am extremely business and I am trying to check the truck when I can. Like I said I appreciated the help. Anyway, I drove the truck a couple of times about 30-40 yards with the center diff. locked. It performed fine. Also, the last couple of days I have drove it I have not had the sluggish acceleration issue, but I only drive for about 8-10 miles on freeway and not a lot of in city driving. I know when it gets hot after driving for awhile is when I experienced the extreme sluggish acceleration every time I came to a light or traffic.
Check your fluid level. DO NOT do a flush of the transmission, only do drain and fills.
 
I've been thinking this just never said it.
Could be over full too. Yes he better check his fluids. On level ground engine running and at operating temp!
 
I appreciate the help and I am doing the best I can. I am restoring 2 homes at the same time on my own plus I have my own business seperate from restoring the 2 homes. I am extremely business and I am trying to check the truck when I can. Like I said I appreciated the help. Anyway, I drove the truck a couple of times about 30-40 yards with the center diff. locked. It performed fine. Also, the last couple of days I have drove it I have not had the sluggish acceleration issue, but I only drive for about 8-10 miles on freeway and not a lot of in city driving. I know when it gets hot after driving for awhile is when I experienced the extreme sluggish acceleration every time I came to a light or traffic.
I suspected you were busy with other things from your first post.
So this only happens when it gets 'hot'? Or 'hot' just means operating temperature?
Recommend taking note of the suggestions you understand and can perform and report back. Be concise and articulate in describing what you find with each t-shooting step you take.
Consensus seems to be it's not as bad as the stealership led you to believe; tho keep an even keel and sort it as you can. Most of the potential fixes are easy.
 
I appreciate the help and I am doing the best I can. I am restoring 2 homes at the same time on my own plus I have my own business seperate from restoring the 2 homes. I am extremely business and I am trying to check the truck when I can. Like I said I appreciated the help. Anyway, I drove the truck a couple of times about 30-40 yards with the center diff. locked. It performed fine. Also, the last couple of days I have drove it I have not had the sluggish acceleration issue, but I only drive for about 8-10 miles on freeway and not a lot of in city driving. I know when it gets hot after driving for awhile is when I experienced the extreme sluggish acceleration every time I came to a light or traffic.
Were all busy, but we still try to help when we can.
 
I appreciate the help and I am doing the best I can. I am restoring 2 homes at the same time on my own plus I have my own business seperate from restoring the 2 homes. I am extremely business and I am trying to check the truck when I can. Like I said I appreciated the help. Anyway, I drove the truck a couple of times about 30-40 yards with the center diff. locked. It performed fine. Also, the last couple of days I have drove it I have not had the sluggish acceleration issue, but I only drive for about 8-10 miles on freeway and not a lot of in city driving. I know when it gets hot after driving for awhile is when I experienced the extreme sluggish acceleration every time I came to a light or traffic.
there has been so much information tossed around this thread, most/if not all helpful. if you really think its a "heat" issue, you are most likely looking at a hydraulic pressure issue.
most of the previous comments lean from "easiest" diagnosis to more complicated. what I'm about to suggest could be done by any reputable transmission shop or yourself if your up for it.
get some orange/red FIPG, drop the pan, inspect the magnet(s), inspect/replace the filter, check the valve body bolts for tightness, clean inspect o-rings on solenoids (if at a transmission shop, they can check them for leaks with a pressure tester), re-assmble and button everything back up. it's helpful to know how much fluid you've removed from the system(some will remain in the torque convertor)so your guess work at filling is lessoned.
last but not least check adjustment on the kickdown cable. depress the accelerator pedal and see if the kickdown cable is overly loose, if it is tighten it in small increments, to not over tighten it.

hope all your projects run smoothly!, good luck
 
there has been so much information tossed around this thread, most/if not all helpful. if you really think its a "heat" issue, you are most likely looking at a hydraulic pressure issue.
most of the previous comments lean from "easiest" diagnosis to more complicated. what I'm about to suggest could be done by any reputable transmission shop or yourself if your up for it.
get some orange/red FIPG, drop the pan, inspect the magnet(s), inspect/replace the filter, check the valve body bolts for tightness, clean inspect o-rings on solenoids (if at a transmission shop, they can check them for leaks with a pressure tester), re-assmble and button everything back up. it's helpful to know how much fluid you've removed from the system(some will remain in the torque convertor)so your guess work at filling is lessoned.
last but not least check adjustment on the kickdown cable. depress the accelerator pedal and see if the kickdown cable is overly loose, if it is tighten it in small increments, to not over tighten it.

hope all your projects run smoothly!, good luck
@Angeltech 100% agree.
Bring it in somewhere to a transmission shop

But if you want to try and do this yourself and are capable. Go thru the troubleshooting steps refer to AT-14

And get back to us


As for parts availability there are master kits available and include parts for full rebuild


TRANSTEC brand

Wholesale automatic transmissions if you want a upgraded valve body and or torque converter and parts.

You could also swap in a used unit or a rebuilt/remanufactured one.

Just do your diagnostics see what you need and go from there. You may just need something simple fluid, wireing, transmission ecu, solenoids…. Etc.
 
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there has been so much information tossed around this thread, most/if not all helpful. if you really think its a "heat" issue, you are most likely looking at a hydraulic pressure issue.
most of the previous comments lean from "easiest" diagnosis to more complicated. what I'm about to suggest could be done by any reputable transmission shop or yourself if your up for it.
get some orange/red FIPG, drop the pan, inspect the magnet(s), inspect/replace the filter, check the valve body bolts for tightness, clean inspect o-rings on solenoids (if at a transmission shop, they can check them for leaks with a pressure tester), re-assmble and button everything back up. it's helpful to know how much fluid you've removed from the system(some will remain in the torque convertor)so your guess work at filling is lessoned.
last but not least check adjustment on the kickdown cable. depress the accelerator pedal and see if the kickdown cable is overly loose, if it is tighten it in small increments, to not over tighten it.

hope all your projects run smoothly!, good luck
“there has been so much information tossed around this thread, most/if not all helpful”. Trust me I have been confused. Thank you for the help
 
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