94 80 Purchase On Ebay - Help

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New to the fourm, I was directed here from Thumpertalk.com, and have a couple of questions. I am looking at a 94 80 series in Houston, TX that is listed on ebay. I am currently the high bidder but I am sure a sniper is out there waiting to out bid me. I have owned a FJ60 and am aware of the issues these rigs had but the 80 series is a new beast to me. What are the major pit falls to watch out for, leaks, electronic issues etc. What type of maintence will this rig require on the near future, cost of owning and maintaining the 80 series. Anything you folks can think of that may help my cause would be good. The rig is a 94 with 145K on the ODO, has factory lockers, and APPEARS to be in good shape. The seller has nothing but good feedback and I have spoken with him as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-WHITE-TOYOTA-LAND-CRUISER-LOW-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4563876705QQcategoryZ6443QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
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There are two good links im sure some one will post up soon that will help you out. one off 80scool.com i think and the other off sleoffroad.com

The major pitfall of the 80 is the headgasket. you can usually tell how close it is by spotting any leaks up around the valve cover i think. someone correct me if im wrong. other issues include just basic front axle service. birfs needing repack, etc.

I say go for it. i have a 94 with 251k miles. your still has alot of life left in it.
 

Brentbba

Former Golfer
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Also see the FAQ section and do the reading there. Slee Offroad (see vendor section) has an 80's for newbies sections that you should read.

I also own a '94 with 149K on her. Replaced the head gasket (leaking) at 125K. '94's go thru O2 sensors about every 60K or so. Easy to change out on a '94. Rock solid truck.
 
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Go for it. Two things you need to know about ebay is that it needs to be over the reserve before the auction ends. If it gets close to the end of the auction without being over the reserve you can do two things one bid it up with yourself and anther (friends) ebay name. Or call the seller and ask him what the reserve is and if he if he is willing to go lower off of ebay. Second is that you don't care what the bid is or if you are the highest until 30 sec to go. then bet (best on high speed internet) what the max is your want to spend for said part/truck. This is a total that you will feel comfortable with but do not want to go over. Bet this at the last sec and you will get it for whatever lower price it is. If this doesn't make sence to you pm me I will try to explain it different. I just baught mine off of ebay but just through the seller not through the auction.
 
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Nice looking truck...if you can't see it in person I would ask for more pictures of the under carriage and under the hood. And ask what the heck the wire coming out of the grill is for! :doh:
 
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I've got my eye on something else on ebay, but have been checking everything out daily. There's nothing with teh BBB on the dealer you're looking at. Have you e-mailed any of his previous buyers? And, I'm assuming that's the air conditioner water puddling up under it?!?

By the way, if you are the high bidder, you haven't passed the reserve price so it doesn't matter. Usually teh reserve price is going to near the buy it now price. It's just like gambling, only you get something for your money...

And, I promise, no pinging here.
 
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clarkrw3 said:
Go for it. Two things you need to know about ebay is that it needs to be over the reserve before the auction ends. If it gets close to the end of the auction without being over the reserve you can do two things one bid it up with yourself and anther (friends) ebay name. Or call the seller and ask him what the reserve is and if he if he is willing to go lower off of ebay. Second is that you don't care what the bid is or if you are the highest until 30 sec to go. then bet (best on high speed internet) what the max is your want to spend for said part/truck. This is a total that you will feel comfortable with but do not want to go over. Bet this at the last sec and you will get it for whatever lower price it is. If this doesn't make sence to you pm me I will try to explain it different. I just baught mine off of ebay but just through the seller not through the auction.

Sorry to flame but this is crap advice. Be honest. If your maximum bid is above the reserve the buy it now will dissapear and it will say reserve met. So you can put the maximum you want to bid and see if it executes. Also if you want it bad enough click the buy it now button and enjoy the vehicle. Just make sure you want it and be honest when you purchase it.
 
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So bidding last second isn't honest?...that is why auctions have time limits. What I am saying is if you want to pay 15k for something and the current bid is 3k...you will be the highest bidder at 3100 but that my not put you above the reserve. If no one else bids you up you may never reach the reserve and get the car, even if the reserve is below 15k which is your max bid. I however don't understand people that have to be the highest bidder 5 days till the close of an auction when it is already above reserve or no reserve. If you are trying to get the lowest possible price it doesn't make sence getting in a bidding war with some other fool that thinks they too always must be highest bidder 5 days before close. In auctions it only counts who is the highest bidder at the close of auction, thus put it your max bid with 30 sec left and see what happens....this negates the bidding wars that drive the price up.


I very much resent the implication that I am being dishonest or underhanded in any way with this advice...I am just looking out for a fellow cruiser head. I am about as honest a guy you will ever meet I assure you!!
 
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clarkrw3 said:
So bidding last second isn't honest?...that is why auctions have time limits. What I am saying is if you want to pay 15k for something and the current bid is 3k...you will be the highest bidder at 3100 but that my not put you above the reserve. If no one else bids you up you may never reach the reserve and get the car, even if the reserve is below 15k which is your max bid. I however don't understand people that have to be the highest bidder 5 days till the close of an auction when it is already above reserve or no reserve. If you are trying to get the lowest possible price it doesn't make sence getting in a bidding war with some other fool that thinks they too always must be highest bidder 5 days before close. In auctions it only counts who is the highest bidder at the close of auction, thus put it your max bid with 30 sec left and see what happens....this negates the bidding wars that drive the price up.


I very much resent the implication that I am being dishonest or underhanded in any way with this advice...I am just looking out for a fellow cruiser head. I am about as honest a guy you will ever meet I assure you!!


Guess your missing the point. Having another person bid up the vehicle is bogus and against the rules. If your bid is higher than the reserve it will trigger regardless if there is any bids or not. Also I never said anything about sniping.

Also ebay frowns on exactly how you bought your vehicle.

Or call the seller and ask him what the reserve is and if he if he is willing to go lower off of ebay
I just baught mine off of ebay but just through the seller not through the auction.
http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/rfe-spam-non-ebay-sale.html

Just stating facts.
 
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A few things I could mention...
Get a carfax or what ever ebay uses, If you are serious about buying a vehicle it is money well spent to find out if there was a problem.
The seller is showing bidders, I have seen many that do not, I think it is a good thing to show them.
The buy it now it too high, IMHO.
Get in contact with them to let them know you are interested and to ask ANY questions.
When I was looking I found that most Texas vehicles had higher miles but the body looked to be nicer, I dont know what the enviroment is like there?
Dont get caught up in the "gotta have it" mode, There are other's
Other than that, I think if you could get it for around $7000 I think you would have done well.
Good luck!
 
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maybe I am missing it,,, but I dont see where it says it has factory lockers,,
 
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The picture could be of a switch that is not operative,...... but the door code showing k294 is the factory designation for the locker option, according to other posts from other threads. Looks like it has 'em.
 

mot

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TLCgrappler said:
,...... but the door code showing k294 is the factory designation for the locker option,

... unless someone has put in the DS door/sticker from a vehicle that had lockers...

I didn't come up with this, Cdan did! :D
 
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This is the last time I will post on this just to set the record streight.

Guess your missing the point. Having another person bid up the vehicle is bogus and against the rules. If your bid is higher than the reserve it will trigger regardless if there is any bids or not. Also I never said anything about sniping.

What I was saying about bidding it up was just to get it above the reserve. NOT to artifically drive the price up on the item so that someone else has to pay more, or driving up the price on your own item you are selling. Second is that i had no intention of buying my truck off of ebay!!! I called the seller to ask questions and request other pictures of parts of the rig. He is a power seller on ebay. He offered that he would need X amount and wanted to know if I was serious and if that was in my budget. I told him it was and if that was the reserve price. ( he wanted to know before he went and took more pictures and layed on the ground.) He told me that the reserve was more than that, but that was what he had to get out of it to sell it. After getting the rest of the info from him thinking about it and researching more, I called him up and told him that if the buy it now price was lowered to X price I would buy it. He then pulled it off of ebay and sold it to me directly. This was not my intention but it was what was on the table.

sorry if I have hit a nerve! Or if I am now considered cheating. It was not my intention......

Also sorry to thread jack you!!!
 
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Auto Check

Looks good. I took a look at it on Autocheck. Two owners as near as I can tell. It has records from mile 12 to 11/2004. Let me know if you want it and I'll email it to you if you haven't already checked it out on carfax or something.
 
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