'93 vs '95 Birfields (1 Viewer)

[musgravecycles]

My father has a '93 FJ-80 ( mint, with over 300K miles) that he was getting ready to sell along with the '95 because they just picked up a FJ-Cruiser. They decided to give it to my baby sister (lucky girl) instead of selling it, so he's been going through the whole thing from one end to the other first.

Anyway he replaced the birfields but could only find ones from a '95 at the time. The only difference was that the outter was a bit longer, which didn't seem to be a problem. However it'll nock the axle cap on the driver side off once every 500 miles or so now. Any suggestions...

 

[landtank]

buy and install the appropriate drive flange for the longer Birf.

 

[IdahoDoug]

It's just the stub axle's splined section that's longer, eh Rick? I can't recall for sure but believe that to be the case. The new drive flange is a good call and only takes about 15 mins/side - don't even have to jack it up. Just pry off the wheel center and then the tapered washers/nuts. Be sure to know the proper (low) retightening torque and how to get the washers loose without losing them. And be sure to use the loo before you get into the project. Sorry, had to work in another word with those letters.......

DougM

 

[landtank]

It's just the stub axle's splined section that's longer, eh Rick?

Yes Doug that is it. Besides the cap being forced off the narrower flange will allow the birf to drift slightly in it's position and give a little resistance the during the next turn as the birf is no longer centered in the housing.

These flanges should always be replaced when installing a new birf in an older truck as the new longer birfs are all that are available.

 

[musgravecycles]

thanks guys, thats what we figured. Ordered the parts this morning while I was at the dealer picking up an accelerator cable for my FJ-62.

 

[alia176]

I- don't even have to jack it up. Just pry off the wheel center and then the tapered washers/nuts.

DougM

I must be a dud because I'm not able to swing by brass hammer to release the cone washers while the wheel is mounted

Ali

 

[IdahoDoug]

Ali,

Boink it on the ends of the studs after backing the nut out so it is flush with the end of the studs. You can also use a heavy bar to directly bang the drive plate to get them to release. I did this a couple times to get a good front wheel bearing preload after driving it a few thousand miles.

DougM