93 LC- Inner Axel and Birfeld Replacement (1 Viewer)

[dpeshkin]

Hi -
I've narrowed down my questions.

Question: To remove and replace the Birfield joint and the inner axel shaft, do I need to also separate the tie rods? I'm asking because the DIY videos show this being done when replacing the inner seals and if that is needed, then I need to get an additional tool which I prefer not to.

Side note: I'm using OEM 95' Birfields with 95 flanges.

 

[dpeshkin]

Help-
I need to replace the inner and outer axels on my 93 LC 220k. When I had the inner seals serviced a couple months back, the Toyota tech showed me a groove on the inner axel where it meets the seal. He said its getting worn out and soon it wouldn't properly seal. The gears on the inner axel were also becoming rounded. He also placed the Birf spindle into the flange and shook it back and forth showing play where the parts should fit together
.

The 93 axels are NLA. Correct me where I am wrong (and I'm sure I am), from what I learned on the MUD forums, I think that I can use the 95 inner and outer axels, but I will need to change the outer flanges to 95 to accommodate the longer axels.
I can transfer the bearings over from the 93 Birfs so I don't need to buy new ones (they have less than 5k miles on them.) I will need:
2 snap rings for the front axel hubs
2 Snap rings for where the inner axel and /Birfs meet. (I saw a video where an Australian mechanic uses a zip tie, but there are several posts on MUD about the difficulty involved.)
2 gaskets for the knuckle spindle.
2 gaskets for the outer axel flange.
2 gaskets for the axel housing plug.
2 new caps for the outer shaft flange
2 washers for the wheel adjusting lock
Bearing grease.

I will also need to drain the diff , so fluid and pump.
The Birfs come with a new ABS gear, this will need to be presses in by a machine shop? (I don't have a press.)
Am I missing anything? I am under the impression that this project is less involved than replacing the inner axel seals, or am I kidding myself that I a novice like myself may be able to accomplish this? I saw a list of tools required for replacing the inner seals so I think that tool list would apply to this job (minus the seal puller)? Most of the videos and how to's are about replacing the seals, if there's some good content on the axels please point me to those.

Please let me know if I am missing something or getting myself into something over my head.
Thank you,
Dan

Help-
I need to replace the inner and outer axels on my 93 LC 220k. When I had the inner seals serviced a couple months back, the Toyota tech showed me a groove on the inner axel where it meets the seal. He said its getting worn out and soon it wouldn't properly seal. The gears on the inner axel were also becoming rounded. He also placed the Birf spindle into the flange and shook it back and forth showing play where the parts should fit together
.

The 93 axels are NLA. Correct me where I am wrong (and I'm sure I am), from what I learned on the MUD forums, I think that I can use the 95 inner and outer axels, but I will need to change the outer flanges to 95 to accommodate the longer axels.
I can transfer the bearings over from the 93 Birfs so I don't need to buy new ones (they have less than 5k miles on them.) I will need:
2 snap rings for the front axel hubs
2 Snap rings for where the inner axel and /Birfs meet. (I saw a video where an Australian mechanic uses a zip tie, but there are several posts on MUD about the difficulty involved.)
2 gaskets for the knuckle spindle.
2 gaskets for the outer axel flange.
2 gaskets for the axel housing plug.
2 new caps for the outer shaft flange
2 washers for the wheel adjusting lock
Bearing grease.

I will also need to drain the diff , so fluid and pump.
The Birfs come with a new ABS gear, this will need to be presses in by a machine shop? (I don't have a press.)
Am I missing anything? I am under the impression that this project is less involved than replacing the inner axel seals, or am I kidding myself that I a novice like myself may be able to accomplish this? I saw a list of tools required for replacing the inner seals so I think that tool list would apply to this job (minus the seal puller)? Most of the videos and how to's are about replacing the seals, if there's some good content on the axels please point me to those.

Please let me know if I am missing something or getting myself into something over my head.
Thank you,
Dan

This seems like the type of part that could strip on the trail so there’s probably been some quick trail fixes, right?

 

[BILT4ME]

This seems like the type of part that could strip on the trail so there’s probably been some quick trail fixes, right?

No, you do not HAVE to pull the tie rod ends to replace the inner axle shaft and Birfield.

You will remove the caliper, hub and rotor, spindle, then you can pull the axle and birf. If you want to replace the trunnion bearings, this is the time to do that as well (I recommend doing it) and that can be done without removing the tie rod ends, but it is more difficult because you have to remove the lower steering arm that has the tie rod ends attached.

So, to answer the direct question, no.
To answer the "While I'm In There" stuff, yes. However, you can rent/borrow the tie rod end removal tools from your local FLAPS.

 

[dpeshkin]

No, you do not HAVE to pull the tie rod ends to replace the inner axle shaft and Birfield.

You will remove the caliper, hub and rotor, spindle, then you can pull the axle and birf. If you want to replace the trunnion bearings, this is the time to do that as well (I recommend doing it) and that can be done without removing the tie rod ends, but it is more difficult because you have to remove the lower steering arm that has the tie rod ends attached.

So, to answer the direct question, no.
To answer the "While I'm In There" stuff, yes. However, you can rent/borrow the tie rod end removal tools from your local FLAPS.

Got it. Thank you for your response. This is a novice question, but do I also need to drain the front diff fluid to change the axel?

 

[BILT4ME]

Got it. Thank you for your response. This is a novice question, but do I also need to drain the front diff fluid to change the axel?

No. You may get some seepage if you tip the axle housing during disassembly, but you do not have to drain it.

 

[LandLocked93]

You will need the 54mm socket to get the torque correct.
Otherwise it's pure yeet gauge (which, can get it close for trail (temporary) repairs)

 

[dpeshkin]

You will need the 54mm socket to get the torque correct.
Otherwise it's pure yeet gauge (which, can get it close for trail (temporary) repairs)

Thank you. Do you think I will also need that fish scale to gauge about 6 lbs of pull when torquing and seating the hub bearings or can I rely on hand tightening it?

 

[BILT4ME]

Thank you. Do you think I will also need that fish scale to gauge about 6 lbs of pull when torquing and seating the hub bearings or can I rely on hand tightening it?

No. Use a torque wrench.

Torque the inner nut to 35 lb-ft while rotating and the outer nut to 45 lb-ft.

 

[dpeshkin]

No. Use a torque wrench.

Torque the inner nut to 35 lb-ft while rotating and the outer nut to 45 lb-ft.

Got it. I thought the inner-bolt was torqued to something like 42 lb-ft and then, after rotating the hub, back out and then hand tightened to 4 lb-ft? I found this cheat sheet that a member put together.

 

[BILT4ME]

Got it. I thought the inner-bolt was torqued to something like 42 lb-ft and then, after rotating the hub, back out and then hand tightened to 4 lb-ft? I found this cheat sheet that a member put together.
View attachment 2943940

Do the higher numbers. The FSM is incorrect on this part.

4 lb-ft is not enough.

 

[LandLocked93]

Got it. I thought the inner-bolt was torqued to something like 42 lb-ft and then, after rotating the hub, back out and then hand tightened to 4 lb-ft? I found this cheat sheet that a member put together.

I see what they are doing here...

Curious.
Fwiw, 2 years ago at knuckle rebuild I did the adjusting nut in accordance to the 'tighten, hand-spin/loosen, hand-spin/repeat to comfort' method. No idea actual torque value.
Then the lock nut @45ftlbs (10+ corrected-fsm value) per t-wrench and 54mm socket. On a hunch.
Took it for an alignment about 25 miles later and shop declined. They said one wheel wobbled unloaded.
Took it home and re-tightened both nuts on that wheel. Did 10ftlbs on the adjusting nut and 55ftlbs on lock nut.
No issues since. Including 2 more alignments after other driveline/suspension component refreshes.
Point being, lots of headroom on 80 series hubs if you're in dire straits.