93 HDJ81 Cruise Control Actuator Replacement

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Apr 23, 2010
Kamloops, BC
When I bought my truck, the cruise control worked. After a few years it now flashes CRUISE on the dash 5 times and then doesn't work.

It passed the Type A diagnostics:

-SET/COAST circuit is normal.
-RES/ACC circuit is normal.
-Control switches:
• Stop light switch
• Parking brake switch
• Neutral start switch

-Drive at approx. 40 km/h (25 mph) or below. - CRUISE on solid
-Drive at approx. 40 km/h (25 mph) or over - CRUISE flashing rapidly

I then did the Type B diagnostics, via the jumper on the OBD1 check connector. It spat back a single code, Indication Code 12 - Open circuit in safety magnetic clutch. I'm assuming this means the actuator is toast. There are a few more steps with the multimeter:

(Safety Magnet Clutch)
(a) Check that the arm moves smoothly by hand.
(b) Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to terminal
5 and the negative ( —) lead to terminal 4.
(Safety magnet clutch turned ON)
(c) Check that the arm does not move by hand.
If operation is not as specified, replace the motor.

Assuming these tests will fail, I'm trying to source a new actuator. The actuator part number changes from 1990-1992 vs. 1993-1997. In USA land, 1993-1997 part number is
Example: CRUISE SPEED REGULATOR 1996 Land Cruiser P/n: 88002-60030 R258013

I know the JDM part number may be different, but on physical inspection it looks the same (especially if you buy just the motor as in the ebay link above). Unfortunately the label with the part number on my truck has faded to the point I can't make out the part number. @Akella do you know? The cruise control actuator is on the same physical side on the US model 80.

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Should also mention, mine is 1992 build month 08, so it seems to have everything a 93 has.... except, on physical inspection my CC actuator looks like the 1992: part number 88200-60011


NOT like the 93:

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I had a look at mine, it's an '06/93 build, and the actuator has the black label like your '93+ pic. Have you tried punching your VIN into toyodiy and seeing what it calls for? I tried cross referencing the part # for the JDM truck (88200-60011) and got the following results, which at least show that the part # was used on pre and post '93 trucks, but all appear to be diesel models for some reason.

Model Dates: Matching Models: Model Options: Links to diagrams:
08/1996-12/1997 HDJ80L-GCMEX 84-08
08/1992-12/1997 HDJ80L-GNMEX 84-0884-08
01/1990-07/1992 HDJ80L-GNPEX 84-0884-08
01/1995-12/1997 HDJ80R-GNMNWQ 84-08
01/1995-12/1997 HDJ80R-GNPEWQ 84-08
08/1992-12/1994 HDJ80R-GNPEXQ 84-0884-08
01/1995-12/1997 HDJ80R-GNPNWQ 84-08
01/1990-07/1992 HDJ80R-GNPNXQ 84-0884-08
Ian, interesting. Cruiserparts.net shows 88200-60011 to be for 1990-1992 USDM spec. Maybe they use the same part? Would be amazing, lol.

Fleabay also has 2 results for that part number for FJ80s. 88200-60011 | eBay

EDIT: According to Toyodiy, with my VIN number, it calls for:


Cool :)
So I did the tests on the CC actuator, and they surprisingly... passed! The safety magnetic clutch worked perfectly. I also swapped in the USA ECU while I was at it. Went out for a test drive, and it still gives the same code. Indication Code 12 - Open circuit in safety magnetic clutch.

The connector plug looked mint. I suppose it could be wiring harness, but...........

Any other ideas?

(Safety Magnet Clutch)
(a) Check that the arm moves smoothly by hand.
(b) Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to terminal
5 and the negative ( —) lead to terminal 4.
(Safety magnet clutch turned ON)
(c) Check that the arm does not move by hand.
If operation is not as specified, replace the motor.
Alright, so after some wiring diagnosis and browsing thru several FSM and EWDs I believe I have the problem narrowed down.

Initial diagnosis by the CC ECU was... sort of correct. It said there was an open in the safety magnetic clutch. However, when I tested the actuator magnetic clutch itself, it passed the tests. As a further step in troubleshooting I borrowed a working actuator and swapped it out. It did not solve the problem. And since the ECU was also replaced, I dived into the wiring.

As per the FSM I tested continuity between Pin 5 of the actuator (in the engine bay) and pin 10 of the ECU. No continuity. According to the FSM there should be around 38 ohms between when the Stop Switch is not pressed (brake pedal not pressed down), and no continuity when the brake pedal is pressed.


So that lead me to start digging into the wiring. I then realized that between Pin 5 of the actuator and Pin 10 of the ECU there is the Stop Switch. So I tested and got perfect continuity between the Pin 10 of the ECU and Pin 3 of the Stop Switch (NOTE: Somewhere around 1993 the pinout of the Stop Switch changed. The 1996 EWD reflects this change. The 1990 FSM says Pin 2 should be connected to Pin 10 of the ECU, but 1996 EWD says pin 3 is connected. I verified by checking the other 3 pins to their respective locations.)

I then tested and got perfect coninuity between the Stop Switch and Pin 5 of the actuator in the engine bay. Meaning my thoughts of wiring harness through firewall issues was not the case.

This leaves an issue with the Stop Switch. NOW - when I did the Type A tests in the FSM, which the ECU checks the various things LIKE THE STOP SWITCH, it turns out it checks for the stop switch to send the cancellation signal to the ECU (by pressing the brake pedal). It doesn't check the "normal mode" of the Stop Switch. This explains why the Type A tests passed the Stop Switch, when in fact the switch is faulty.


Great work!
I also received this error on a 90' HDJ81. I believe the stop switch is the culprit as well. First off, it was adjusted such that the switch wasn't pushed all the way in to the screw body. Secondly, it seemed a bit sporadic when pushing down the switch during the test of the stop switch itself (p. BE-123).

I cleaned it up with electrical contact cleaner and actuated it a bunch of times. When I reinstalled I made sure it was pushed all the way down to the screw body. I believe this will fix it, if this doesn't work I'll update the thread.
Don't be afraid to replace the stop switch if it's acting up. Its an item with a limited life and is readily available at any parts store for cheap. I think I paid like $18 for my replacement.

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