‘93 1FZ-FE Transmission Cooling Line

[Belov]

Hey Everyone,

The connection between my passenger side transmission cooling line and the entry into the radiator failed spectacularly last Friday.

The part is on order, thanks to a very patient parts guy at the local Toyota dealership, but I’m worried that something else went wrong and caused the failure.

Has anyone had this problem before? Is there anything I need to check before I just swap out the broken piece with the new one?

It looks straightforward, just slide the hose over the metal attachment, hose clamp it, use the nut to attach it to the radiator fitting, then refill the transmission fluid.

T

 

[LandLocked93]

If the hose was vintage or otherwise perished and ready for replacement, no other issues to look at that i'm aware of.

 

[Belov]

If the hose was vintage or otherwise perished and ready for replacement, no other issues to look at that i'm aware of.

Cool. The hose looks solid. I'll swap the part, and fire it up.

 

[Kernal]

"just slide the hose over the metal attachment, hose clamp it, use the nut to attach it to the radiator fitting,"

Are you replacing the metal barb or the hose or both?? What actually failed or ruptured?

Posting up a photo or two would help us help you.

 

[bhsdriller]

Hose failure happens. The fitting on the radiator probably not so much

 

[Belov]

Parts are at my house. I'll take a pic of the part to be replaced. It's the metal pipe that connects the hose to the threaded fitting that comes out of the radiator. It is weird that it failed. Hoses I'm used to, this kind of thing is a first for me.

 

[Kernal]

OK,. would be interesting to see how that pipe failed.

 

[Belov]

OK,. would be interesting to see how that pipe failed.

Here it is, new on the left, broken on the right:

 

[Kernal]

So more than failed, it looks damaged (twisted/bent/pinched) and missing a bit off one end?? Had the radiator been removed and stuffed back in?? Did someone try to bend it with pliers or??

Either way, glad you found the culprit.

 

[80t0ylc]

Looks like possibly damaged on a previous radiator exchange.

 

[JoeCova]

It's pretty straight forward however adding that radiator connector kind of sucks.

I recommend replacing all of the cooler lines, typically when one goes the others kind of follow. Unfortunately they are discontinued from Toyota so I used Gates 3/8 400PSI transmission cooler line and Bellmetric CTC16BAND12.

Remove the battery and tray, grill and driver headlight and you can access the 4 lines there. I followed this thread but DO NOT order the Contentinel line recommended in the first post because it does not meet specs.

Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts

what about instead of a unicoil just getting a 90 degree section of 3/4 heater hose or similar? I would think it'd be stiff enough to maintain the bend, but maybe not. could also 3D print a little curve that holds the hose. I was able to find the right part.. not on amazon but its available here

forum.ih8mud.com

Or Don't, just a personal recommendation while everything will be mostly drained.

 

[Belov]

Following up on this. This was actually a crazy series of events.

Last year, I pulled the head because the gasket was blown. That’s a job that’s right at the limit of my abilities and tolls. As soon as I got the head off, I realized I needed a full rebuild. Which I should have known in the first place because of my oil usage, but this job firmly pulled my head out of the sand.

My shop is unusually understanding and accepted the truck with a pile of parts. They put the whole thing back together, and it’s been running great.

Until three weeks ago, when I hear a clunk, and the smoke starts, see above. I get new belts and fittings for my transmission heating line. I strip the threads on the radiator fitting, which comes with the radiator. I bypass the tranny heater for the moment, and order a new oem radiator, then start trying to install the new belts.

During the failure, I lost the AC belt, and the front alternator belt. I take note of the belt path, and then pull the second alternator belt. I install the AC belt, and go to work on the other two.

I cannot get those two on. I legit spent 6 hours trying to figure out how to get them the same as my shop did. I finally give up and look at the belt path in my shop manual, and voila, my shop installed the belts wrong. Probably had to buy slightly longer belts.

So my theory is that the belts were strung way too tight, one snapped, and took the AC belt and the transmission heater fitting with it.

Good news, the truck runs fine, and I’ve got my 15 yo with working on swapping the radiator, which was some after market POS. Which’ll go on the “What did you do to your 80 this weekend” thread.

Thanks everyone for their input. I guarantee I would not have my 80 without this site.

 

[Kernal]

Glad you figured it out. The mis-routing of the alternator belts is fairly common, people sometimes assume the belts wrap on the inside of the alternator idler pulley probably because it "looks" right. Been discussed in the past but that idler pulley probably should be called something like a belt anti-bounce/anti-whip/stabilization pulley.