Hi y'all,
I just sold my beloved companion of nearly 12 years, my 1984 BJ60. It was a great truck but now I've got two little ones and it was getting driven about 25,000km a year. When I sent her away it had 610,000km. All summer long, no AC up to 2000km trips in 35c heat and the rust was of course creeping in and a certain member of the family was displeased about the crudeness of the ol' truck so I found a 91 FJ80 with AC, no rust, triple locked and 2" lift in good shape for a good price. The problem is I hate the 3FE and auto. My old turbod 3B had more useable power and got 10L per 100km all day long around town and out in the bush whatever it didn't matter winter or summer. I couldnt burn a tank in less than 550km if I tried. Now this 80 hogs gas and is gutless. I get best 14L per 100km and around town up to 20L per 100. Also I hate autos. Truck is great other than that So ive been digging around and have determined that what I'd like to see powering my otherwise perfect truck is a Hino W04C-T mated to a ZF5 out of a F350, mated to the full time tcase. I think the Hino is the perfect displacement, industrial cylinder liners, gear driven cam, fuel pump etc, often equiped with exhaust brake (I know most of you are going to say overkill but hey it would still be nice) should physically fit ok, being Japanese diesel should start well in winter, should be a thrift on fuel and should last a long long time. From what I found they are around 150hp and close to 300 ftlb torque. More than enough for me.
Now for the ZF5 trans they are OD (I don't think Hino had an OD trans mated to the W04C-T). They are known to last a long time in bigger trucks with much more power (7.3 powerstroke). The gear ratios are good about 5:1 first and .77 fifth. Also they are dime a dozen and cheap to rebuild. They are aluminum case to save weight too and PTO options.
As for the Toyota full time case I want to retain that as if my wife drives it in the winter I would be more confident sending her out. I once tried to explain how one needs to be careful about understeer particularly going downhill in 4WD or when it is best to be in 4wd or not but it's just not there. Not going to happen. Plus I like how well it works too. I dont miss locking and unlocking hubs.
All of this hub bub to see what everyone has to say. I know this is a big task. I am a HD mechanic and I can get my way through most tasks but does anyone has a blatant reason that this is not going to work so don't try it? I am aware I'm in deep mixing and matching parts here but I'm thinking the only way to REALLY find out is to do it.
I just sold my beloved companion of nearly 12 years, my 1984 BJ60. It was a great truck but now I've got two little ones and it was getting driven about 25,000km a year. When I sent her away it had 610,000km. All summer long, no AC up to 2000km trips in 35c heat and the rust was of course creeping in and a certain member of the family was displeased about the crudeness of the ol' truck so I found a 91 FJ80 with AC, no rust, triple locked and 2" lift in good shape for a good price. The problem is I hate the 3FE and auto. My old turbod 3B had more useable power and got 10L per 100km all day long around town and out in the bush whatever it didn't matter winter or summer. I couldnt burn a tank in less than 550km if I tried. Now this 80 hogs gas and is gutless. I get best 14L per 100km and around town up to 20L per 100. Also I hate autos. Truck is great other than that So ive been digging around and have determined that what I'd like to see powering my otherwise perfect truck is a Hino W04C-T mated to a ZF5 out of a F350, mated to the full time tcase. I think the Hino is the perfect displacement, industrial cylinder liners, gear driven cam, fuel pump etc, often equiped with exhaust brake (I know most of you are going to say overkill but hey it would still be nice) should physically fit ok, being Japanese diesel should start well in winter, should be a thrift on fuel and should last a long long time. From what I found they are around 150hp and close to 300 ftlb torque. More than enough for me.
Now for the ZF5 trans they are OD (I don't think Hino had an OD trans mated to the W04C-T). They are known to last a long time in bigger trucks with much more power (7.3 powerstroke). The gear ratios are good about 5:1 first and .77 fifth. Also they are dime a dozen and cheap to rebuild. They are aluminum case to save weight too and PTO options.
As for the Toyota full time case I want to retain that as if my wife drives it in the winter I would be more confident sending her out. I once tried to explain how one needs to be careful about understeer particularly going downhill in 4WD or when it is best to be in 4wd or not but it's just not there. Not going to happen. Plus I like how well it works too. I dont miss locking and unlocking hubs.
All of this hub bub to see what everyone has to say. I know this is a big task. I am a HD mechanic and I can get my way through most tasks but does anyone has a blatant reason that this is not going to work so don't try it? I am aware I'm in deep mixing and matching parts here but I'm thinking the only way to REALLY find out is to do it.