91 cruiser brake line issue (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 28, 2003
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I am trying to do my rear drum brakes for my 91 cruiser. When I got the one side off, I noticed that there was some seeping brake fluid on the brake cylinder. I pulled the cylinder off, and I replaced that. I put everything back together, and I was trying to perform a bleeding of the lines. I started with the back right,(which had the new cylinder), and I'm seeing a drip from where the brake line nut hist the cylinder. I'm wondering if there is anything I have to service on the end of the brake line,or is the line and nut just damaged, and I now have to consider changing the whole line(which would suck). It looks like the fluid is coming from the top of the nut(where the brake line comes in) rather than on the bottom where it compresses to the cylinder. When I tighten the hard line to the back of the cylinder, it definitely seems to buckle a little bit, which is worrisome. I tried pulling it off, and re-tightening, but it doesn't seem to help. HEre is a pic of the end of the line.



Any thoughts on things I could try, or look at?



Sony,

IMG_1505.jpg
 
Hard to tell from the pic, but the outer threads look worn down/stripped? If so, you won't get a good seal. Are the inner threads clean? This could also prevent a good seal.
 
yeah, I'm going to try cleaning it with brake cleaner, and see if it makes the seal better.
 
You can, if necessary, remove the flare and old nut, slide a new tube nut in place and reflare the tube. Way cheaper than a new brake line.

FWIW, denatured alcohol works better than brake cleaner and has many more uses. I stopped buying Brakleen years ago.
 
so Jon, I did use an Autozone $20 cylinder. That was probably a mistake. So here is a pic my old cylinder...is that original? I like the idea of a rebuild.

IMG_1506.jpg
 
I have seen plenty of poorly machined chicomm brake fittings that don't want to seal correctly.

New OEM ADVICS (Aisin) wheel cylinders are $20 from RA. Get 2 at that price and then the job is done right for another 30 years.
 
ordered...thanks
 
So interestingly, the picture in rockauto shows 2 brake cylinders, but I only got one. I"m sure they will say that the picture is not supposed to be what you get. I put in a complaint to see what they will do.. I just need the one, but it would be nice if they ship another one.
 
I was wondering if anyone who has done the brake cylinder for the 3FE has been able to get the cylinder off, without pulling apart the shoes and all springs. I'm guessing not, but I thought I would ask the question. I was going to try releasing the bottom spring, and see if that gives me enough room to pivot the shoes so that I could get the cylinder off.
 
So interestingly, the picture in rockauto shows 2 brake cylinders, but I only got one. I"m sure they will say that the picture is not supposed to be what you get. I put in a complaint to see what they will do.. I just need the one, but it would be nice if they ship another one.
Rock Auto picture shows you Front and Back of cylinder in one picture.
 
so the OEM brake cylinder seemed to do the trick. It has stopped leaking.
 
question on the parking brakes adusting, and getting it really to clamp in. If my e-brakes were fine before, is it just a matter of getting the shoes pushed out further, where it will grip the drums better when pushed out?
 
question on the parking brakes adusting, and getting it really to clamp in. If my e-brakes were fine before, is it just a matter of getting the shoes pushed out further, where it will grip the drums better when pushed out?
There's a procedure in the FSM for adjusting them. I typically have gone by feel.
Once the rear drums are put back together with everything properly lubed and working correctly, I would rotate the adjuster until the shoes bind on the drum on BOTH left and right wheels. Then work the handbrake a bunch of times to make sure the shoes are seated correctly. Make certain you're adjusting both wheels when you make changes.
Final adjustment should allow 5-7 clicks of the hand brake lever, and there should be no resistance when fully released.
This takes a while to get right between the internal shoe adjustment and the cable adjustment.
The handle/cable should remain under slight tension when released. If it's flopping around, then when you hit a bump the Cruise control will kick off.
 

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