I bought a 91' 3FE with 208k several months ago as my first ever project vehicle. At the time I had virtually no mechanical experience.
Today I replaced the power steering pump. After re-assembly and starting the vehicle, there is now a horrific metal grinding sound as well as burning smell which was not present before the pump swap.
I don't think this has to do with the pump I replaced. Rather I suspect I made a mistake re-connecting the belts and tensioners.
Regarding the belt, I looked at an earlier post with photos and an awesome diagram:
forum.ih8mud.com
Any ideas or tips? Any specific methods for getting the tension correct for the belts and properly aligning the pump and alternator?
The following are the steps I did
1) I unbolt the bar between air pump and alternator. Top nut was 12 mm, the bottom bolt was also 12 mm.
2) I loosened the front bolt a little bit and loosen the back pivot/tension bolt almost all the way. Both are 12 mm. I pushed the alternator to the left as much as I can. It went about an inch and a half.
3) I loosened the pivot bolt and bracket bolt to make the PSP free to move downwards (turning counterclockwise), both of which were behind the pulley. I grabbed the pressure port and pushed down the pump as much as it can go.
4) I loosened the front bolt, 14mm and loosened the long bolt which is right behind almost all the way. I took the outermost belt off.
After replacing the PS pump, I did the above steps backwards to get the belt on.
The belt was routed from PS pump, crankshaft, alternator and air(smog) pump.
I pushed PS pump so that it levels, tightened two bolts and they are snug.
I pushed the alternator back to right, tightened the long bolt as much as possible and snug the front bolt.
I put the metal bar and tightened the top nut and bottom bolt.
Last, I tightened the long bolt behind the idler pulley and as belt gets tight, I snug the front 14mm bolt.
Moreover, I would like to know how you can charge the PS fluid.
When I undo the PS pump and two lines, I made a quite mess and guessed I drained about (loosely) 1/2~1 quart of fluid. (ATF Dexron 3)
I tried to charge new fluid without car staring.
I poured new fluid and put the cap back on, turn the wheel lock to lock but the pump just vomits the fluid, not circulating through the pressure port.
Re-manufactured one come with all the necessary part well tuned, such as pressure port union, control valve, spring, oil seal and others, right?
Mine looks like this: old one on the left, new one on the right.
I put the old woodruff key to the new one because the new one is too big to the pulley. I also replace the o-ring at the bottom of the reservoir.
You can see why I had to replace the pump. The bolt hole was broken in half. I wondered how PO dealt with this.
Please help.. and hope you have fun too!
-Rusty8y.
Today I replaced the power steering pump. After re-assembly and starting the vehicle, there is now a horrific metal grinding sound as well as burning smell which was not present before the pump swap.
I don't think this has to do with the pump I replaced. Rather I suspect I made a mistake re-connecting the belts and tensioners.
Regarding the belt, I looked at an earlier post with photos and an awesome diagram:
Belt Confusion - 3FE, 8/1992
Dayco online says 4 belts, which is what I have. FSM maintenance section refers to tension on 3 belts. If I only put on 3 belts, I have spare pulleys. Am I supposed to have spare pulleys? Also, since the crank only has 3 pulleys, the 4th belt must NOT run from the crank. I broke down the...
forum.ih8mud.com
Any ideas or tips? Any specific methods for getting the tension correct for the belts and properly aligning the pump and alternator?
The following are the steps I did
1) I unbolt the bar between air pump and alternator. Top nut was 12 mm, the bottom bolt was also 12 mm.
2) I loosened the front bolt a little bit and loosen the back pivot/tension bolt almost all the way. Both are 12 mm. I pushed the alternator to the left as much as I can. It went about an inch and a half.
3) I loosened the pivot bolt and bracket bolt to make the PSP free to move downwards (turning counterclockwise), both of which were behind the pulley. I grabbed the pressure port and pushed down the pump as much as it can go.
4) I loosened the front bolt, 14mm and loosened the long bolt which is right behind almost all the way. I took the outermost belt off.
After replacing the PS pump, I did the above steps backwards to get the belt on.
The belt was routed from PS pump, crankshaft, alternator and air(smog) pump.
I pushed PS pump so that it levels, tightened two bolts and they are snug.
I pushed the alternator back to right, tightened the long bolt as much as possible and snug the front bolt.
I put the metal bar and tightened the top nut and bottom bolt.
Last, I tightened the long bolt behind the idler pulley and as belt gets tight, I snug the front 14mm bolt.
Moreover, I would like to know how you can charge the PS fluid.
When I undo the PS pump and two lines, I made a quite mess and guessed I drained about (loosely) 1/2~1 quart of fluid. (ATF Dexron 3)
I tried to charge new fluid without car staring.
I poured new fluid and put the cap back on, turn the wheel lock to lock but the pump just vomits the fluid, not circulating through the pressure port.
Re-manufactured one come with all the necessary part well tuned, such as pressure port union, control valve, spring, oil seal and others, right?
Mine looks like this: old one on the left, new one on the right.
I put the old woodruff key to the new one because the new one is too big to the pulley. I also replace the o-ring at the bottom of the reservoir.
You can see why I had to replace the pump. The bolt hole was broken in half. I wondered how PO dealt with this.
Please help.. and hope you have fun too!
-Rusty8y.
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