I bought a 91' 3FE with 208k several months ago as my first ever project vehicle. At the time I had virtually no mechanical experience.
Today I replaced the power steering pump. After re-assembly and starting the vehicle, there is now a horrific metal grinding sound as well as burning smell which was not present before the pump swap.
I don't think this has to do with the pump I replaced. Rather I suspect I made a mistake re-connecting the belts and tensioners.
Regarding the belt, I looked at an earlier post with photos and an awesome diagram:
forum.ih8mud.com
Any ideas or tips? Any specific methods for getting the tension correct for the belts and properly aligning the pump and alternator?
The following are the steps I did
1) I unbolt the bar between air pump and alternator. Top nut was 12 mm, the bottom bolt was also 12 mm.
2) I loosened the front bolt a little bit and loosen the back pivot/tension bolt almost all the way. Both are 12 mm. I pushed the alternator to the left as much as I can. It went about an inch and a half.
3) I loosened the pivot bolt and bracket bolt to make the PSP free to move downwards (turning counterclockwise), both of which were behind the pulley. I grabbed the pressure port and pushed down the pump as much as it can go.
4) I loosened the front bolt, 14mm and loosened the long bolt which is right behind almost all the way. I took the outermost belt off.
After replacing the PS pump, I did the above steps backwards to get the belt on.
The belt was routed from PS pump, crankshaft, alternator and air(smog) pump.
I pushed PS pump so that it levels, tightened two bolts and they are snug.
I pushed the alternator back to right, tightened the long bolt as much as possible and snug the front bolt.
I put the metal bar and tightened the top nut and bottom bolt.
Last, I tightened the long bolt behind the idler pulley and as belt gets tight, I snug the front 14mm bolt.
Moreover, I would like to know how you can charge the PS fluid.
When I undo the PS pump and two lines, I made a quite mess and guessed I drained about (loosely) 1/2~1 quart of fluid. (ATF Dexron 3)
I tried to charge new fluid without car staring.
I poured new fluid and put the cap back on, turn the wheel lock to lock but the pump just vomits the fluid, not circulating through the pressure port.
Re-manufactured one come with all the necessary part well tuned, such as pressure port union, control valve, spring, oil seal and others, right?
Mine looks like this: old one on the left, new one on the right.
I put the old woodruff key to the new one because the new one is too big to the pulley. I also replace the o-ring at the bottom of the reservoir.
You can see why I had to replace the pump. The bolt hole was broken in half. I wondered how PO dealt with this.
Please help.. and hope you have fun too!
-Rusty8y.
Today I replaced the power steering pump. After re-assembly and starting the vehicle, there is now a horrific metal grinding sound as well as burning smell which was not present before the pump swap.
I don't think this has to do with the pump I replaced. Rather I suspect I made a mistake re-connecting the belts and tensioners.
Regarding the belt, I looked at an earlier post with photos and an awesome diagram:

Belt Confusion - 3FE, 8/1992
Dayco online says 4 belts, which is what I have. FSM maintenance section refers to tension on 3 belts. If I only put on 3 belts, I have spare pulleys. Am I supposed to have spare pulleys? Also, since the crank only has 3 pulleys, the 4th belt must NOT run from the crank. I broke down the...

Any ideas or tips? Any specific methods for getting the tension correct for the belts and properly aligning the pump and alternator?
The following are the steps I did
1) I unbolt the bar between air pump and alternator. Top nut was 12 mm, the bottom bolt was also 12 mm.
2) I loosened the front bolt a little bit and loosen the back pivot/tension bolt almost all the way. Both are 12 mm. I pushed the alternator to the left as much as I can. It went about an inch and a half.
3) I loosened the pivot bolt and bracket bolt to make the PSP free to move downwards (turning counterclockwise), both of which were behind the pulley. I grabbed the pressure port and pushed down the pump as much as it can go.
4) I loosened the front bolt, 14mm and loosened the long bolt which is right behind almost all the way. I took the outermost belt off.
After replacing the PS pump, I did the above steps backwards to get the belt on.
The belt was routed from PS pump, crankshaft, alternator and air(smog) pump.
I pushed PS pump so that it levels, tightened two bolts and they are snug.
I pushed the alternator back to right, tightened the long bolt as much as possible and snug the front bolt.
I put the metal bar and tightened the top nut and bottom bolt.
Last, I tightened the long bolt behind the idler pulley and as belt gets tight, I snug the front 14mm bolt.
Moreover, I would like to know how you can charge the PS fluid.
When I undo the PS pump and two lines, I made a quite mess and guessed I drained about (loosely) 1/2~1 quart of fluid. (ATF Dexron 3)
I tried to charge new fluid without car staring.
I poured new fluid and put the cap back on, turn the wheel lock to lock but the pump just vomits the fluid, not circulating through the pressure port.
Re-manufactured one come with all the necessary part well tuned, such as pressure port union, control valve, spring, oil seal and others, right?
Mine looks like this: old one on the left, new one on the right.
I put the old woodruff key to the new one because the new one is too big to the pulley. I also replace the o-ring at the bottom of the reservoir.
You can see why I had to replace the pump. The bolt hole was broken in half. I wondered how PO dealt with this.
Please help.. and hope you have fun too!
-Rusty8y.
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