'90 FJ62: Oyster - 1HZ build (1 Viewer)

[PBcuiser]

Howdy folks,

Long time lurker, first time poster. After dreaming for 15+ years about getting a cruiser and many great days behind the wheel and under the hood of @KeepCruizin's 12HT 60 series I finally pulled the trigger and picked up a '90 FJ62 with nearly 300k miles.

Truck is dead stock and from what I can tell is in pretty great shape, only rust I have found is on the lower sections of the doors and a small bubble around one of the rear windows, frame is perfect. It has been regularly maintained and some major items have been done recently (rebuilt trans at about 270k miles), but not much other than oil changes have been done to the engine so I think I will have to get into that pretty soon. There also seems to be a leak from the back to of the transmission or transfer case - too dirty under there to really tell yet.

Goal with the truck now is to get it running reliably and reduce the likelihood of any major mechanical issues popping up. I have a lot of dreams for down the line (H55F, engine swap??, lift etc etc) but need to get familiar with the basics first.

Here is Oyster:

(license plate rim has since been removed at request of the SO, ahah)

A little body work is in my future too

First things first:
- Pass CA Smog
- Check, change, flush all fluids
- Check belts
- Vacuum lines, coolant hoses
- Transmission cooler


I'd love to hear any ideas or suggestions y'all have!

 

[PBcuiser]

Rust like this is on the bottom of all four doors, but haven't found it anywhere else

 

[underseaer]

Congrats! that thing looks like a beauty! (especially compared to mine)

are you wanting aftermarket wheels? if not, I was able to make mine look almost new with arguably little elbow grease.
I used naval jelly to dissolve the rust that was there, then used Brasso polish and Tshirt rags and they look almost new!

here are the before and after pictures. only took about 30 min per wheel or so - Longest part was wire-wheeling the lugnuts. what a PAIN - I shouldve just bought new ones instead.

 

[MTB Land Cruise]

Nice. My 89 FJ62 has passed Ca. Smog for 30 years. Lastest test was last Friday. Enjoy and have fun.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Looks like a good rig. That transmission is an excellent one,especially if you add on a transmission cooler. Mike

 

[PBcuiser]

Been a kinda slow month but she pasted smog with flying colors and I did a quick oil change. It also looks like ATF is leaking out of the seal between the trans and transfer case. Not too bad at the moment but will have to be addressed.

Also another common problem has popped up with the water temp spiking and then dropping back down quickly every so often during driving. Based on what I have read from other Mudders this is a problem with fuel sender or terminals on the fuel gauge. More investigation is necessary

On order are new set of belts, plugs and wires, materials for aux trans-cooler and some other odds and ends.

A minor dilemma I am currently having is a close family friend is giving me a great deal on a '97 80 series. I know it doesnt make logical sense to have two project trucks on my hands while transitioning out of school in to the real world but I don't really have the heart to give up the 62 and can't say no to the 80. While I haven't seen the 80 in person I know it has been taken care of and very well loved over the past 23 years. If absolutely forced to make a choice I would have to keep the 80 because of my commitment to take care of my friend's 80. Any thoughts?

 

[diesellibrarian]

If you're losing fluid where the transmission and transfer case meet, a transfer case rebuild is in your future, as the transfer case must be disassembled to access that seal.

In terms of the 62/80 dilemma, it sounds like you already have your answer. It's odd to me that a friend would hold you to a promise to "take care" of their car. It's not, after all, a person or pet. The 80 is larger and heavier than the 62, is full-time 4wd, and uses coil spring suspension instead of leafs. Finding parts may be easier, but the bottom line is that it's not a 60. If you've been wanting a 60-series for 15 years, you have a pretty solid base to start from, it seems. If any old cruiser will do, that 80 sounds like a good option.

 

[MTB Land Cruise]

Keep the fj62!

 

[DirtRoads]

A minor dilemma I am currently having is a close family friend is giving me a great deal on a '97 80 series. I know it doesnt make logical sense to have two project trucks on my hands while transitioning out of school in to the real world but I don't really have the heart to give up the 62 and can't say no to the 80. While I haven't seen the 80 in person I know it has been taken care of and very well loved over the past 23 years. If absolutely forced to make a choice I would have to keep the 80 because of my commitment to take care of my friend's 80. Any thoughts?

It depends on the 80. There are days when I would swap my 62 for an 80 without any convincing. Transmission, power windows, engine, transmission, vacuum 4x4, are all garbage and specific to the 62. The 62 only wins in the looks category.

 

[SteveH]

It depends on the 80. There are days when I would swap my 62 for an 80 without any convincing. Transmission, power windows, engine, transmission, vacuum 4x4, are all garbage and specific to the 62. The 62 only wins in the looks category.

I owned an FJ60 for years, then an FZJ80 ('95) and now have an '89 FJ62. On paper, an FZJ-80 makes more sense, but if you just want a fun old truck to bomb around in, and won't be towing, the FJ62 has it all, in the style department, and more back seat knee room, too. I never really fell in love with my FJZ-80. Maybe if it had lockers....that would have helped

 

[PBcuiser]

Reviving this thread from the dead because brought home a new project two weeks ago

Overarching plan is to swap the 1HZ and an H55 into the rig by this time next year for a road trip to BC - wish me luck

Dont have a great idea of the history on the motor but it allegedly came out of a 75 troopy from panama and has ~300k kms on the clock. Judging by the liberal use of FPIG on ALL sealing surfaces it has been opened up at least once. Currently tearing it down, figuring out all the parts I am missing and the overall health of the motor. Planning to have at minimum the injection pump and injectors tested and rebuilt and the head rebuilt. Still need to look at the block to decide what to do there. Leaning towards leaving it NA for the swap and turbo-ing down the line if/when I need more oomph.

Over the past year plus I done the basics to the 62 (front end rebuild, brake rebuild at all 4 corners, basic tune up items) and it is running quite strong for having 299,850 on the clock aside from the fact that the trans leaks like a sieve

Cheers

 

[PBcuiser]

Got the motor pretty stripped down and the head off last night. Injection pump and injectors are ready to be sent to be tested and rebuilt this week. Need to inspect everything else I have taken off and get the head ready to be sent out.

Cam bearings have some light scoring, no deep groves but I will look at replacing these. Cam looks ok.

One head bolt snapped when taking it off. Another bolt was already snapped in the block when I got it.

Pistons and cylinder walls look ok too.

More updates to come

 

[PBcuiser]

Opened up the bottom end and didnt find any big surprises so my plan is starting to firm up.

Current plan:

- get IP and injectors rebuilt
- vac check head, deck if necessary. Pull valves and inspect, replace what is necessary
- get crank balanced, new bearings, new rings
- confirm block is flat, hone cylinders
- bolt it all back up, slap a H55 on and run with it!

Decided to hold off on a turbo for now due to funds needed and added complexity, I will revisit in a year or two once I get some time behind the wheel

Advice and thoughts are welcome

Other plans for the truck are:

- OME 2in
- 16in tundra steelies
- finish interior build out

 

[PBcuiser]

Dropped head off yesterday to get checked, skimmed, and re-assembled. Plan to replace oil seals and freeze plugs, hoping everything else is serviceable. Still waiting to hear back from the injection pump shop.

Continued stripping block down, everything went pretty smooth other than the idler gear pulley shaft sheared where it runs in the block..... one of the bolts holding the gear to the pulley was surprising loose so maybe it rattled around and fatigued the shaft.

Plan to pull the pistons out tomorrow and check the bottom end bearings.... then start ordering the mountain of parts I need

 

[The Machinist]

When I refreshed mine, I considered rebuilding the injectors, but the cost difference between the rebuild kit and brand new injectors was small enough to not be worth the time spent tinkering with it. Peace of mind with having brand new injectors is nice too.

Toyota P/N : 2360069055​

 

[PBcuiser]

When I refreshed mine, I considered rebuilding the injectors, but the cost difference between the rebuild kit and brand new injectors was small enough to not be worth the time spent tinkering with it. Peace of mind with having brand new injectors is nice too.

Toyota P/N : 2360069055​

Sweet, Ill see what the shop says about their condition but probs a good call to just toss new ones in.

 

[PBcuiser]

Dropped head off yesterday to get checked, skimmed, and re-assembled. Plan to replace oil seals and freeze plugs, hoping everything else is serviceable. Still waiting to hear back from the injection pump shop.

Continued stripping block down, everything went pretty smooth other than the idler gear pulley shaft sheared where it runs in the block..... one of the bolts holding the gear to the pulley was surprising loose so maybe it rattled around and fatigued the shaft.

Plan to pull the pistons out tomorrow and check the bottom end bearings.... then start ordering the mountain of parts I need

Pics of snapped idler shaft, thrust was in spec...

aint got a lot of room in here but makin it work

 

[PBcuiser]

Officially nothing else to take apart on the engine so now I need to start putting it back together

Head should be finished by next week but cylinders look like a bore is the prudent idea. All looked more or less the same - maybe water was in there at some point???? I got the oil I pulled out analyzed and they didnt say anything about water in the oil so could be from a while ago.

bearings look typical from what photos I have seen of other 1HZ and HD bearings. Pitting maybe backs up the water in the motor idea?

In other exciting news - under 100 miles to this ol' lady's 300th bday runs strong as ever on the drive to work today - I almost feel bad about pulling the 3f out....

 

[bdyer12]

nice

 

[PBcuiser]

Block and crank off the machinist today! Found a local old school shop who has been really great to work with

Plan is to do +.25 on the block (currently std) and a polish on the crank if it all checks out. Crank was already ground .25 U/S so would prefer not to have to go to .5 U/S

Some other non engine related goodies showed up too