8x Series V8 Swaps (8 Viewers)

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Doing some research on dyno power levels between a 6.0 vs 6.2 ls motors and how much power does the extra.2 liter give. Here is a dyno of a ly6 6.0.
1608212009879.png

The blue is with a Ls3 cam, the red is with a Lq9 cam(443hp, 467ftlbs), which is the same as the Lq4 cam. This motor has 9.6:1 compression. Here is the source: Converting a Truck LY6 Engine into an LS3 for More Power

Here is a dyno of a 6.2 with a Lq4 cam.
1608212393379.png

Here is a truck 6.2 with a Lq4 cam and it shows 445hp and 460ftlbs which is the red lines. The blue lines are of a stage 4 cam. This motor has 10.5:1 compression. Keep in mind the two graphs start at different rpms so that makes it a little harder to compare. Here is the article...
 
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Whew, that was a lot to read! I've been reading this entire thread and taking detailed notes over the course of the past week.

Some of you may be following my completely ignorant deep dive into rebuilding nearly every mechanical system of my FZJ80 here. A couple years back I bought a 5.3 LM7 (Gen 3), intending to swap it into either my dad's CJ-7 or my 1965 Impala. I wanted to get some 'simple' swap experience before attempting an FJ80 swap due to the more advanced wiring/integration. I pulled the 1FZ for a refresh and, now that it's out, I've decided that if I'm going to LS swap the 80 there's no better time than now. I've read a ton of build threads in addition to this thread, but I'm still trying to come up with a solid game plan. Budget is a fairly large factor, but I'd rather spend the money and do it right rather than have to re-do it in the future, so I'm considering all my options. Since this swap involves extensive modification to both the vehicle and engine harness, I think my best option is to learn how to do the wiring and modifications myself.

I think the transmission choice is my most difficult decision. Due to the cost of the Mark's adapter and the fact that they aren't interchangeable (right?), once I pick a transmission I'm going to have to stick with it. Unless someone here says something to change my mind, I've ruled out the 4L60e family. Though they have better gearing than the 4L80e and weigh considerably less, I'm worried about reliability (see goals), and around here they're around $1500 to rebuild. I think I'd feel comfortable buying and running a used 4L80e. I'd really like a 6L80e, as it seems to be the best in terms of reliability, driveability, and gearing, but it would require the purchase of a Gen IV engine (which I'm not opposed to) and I'm concerned about increasing the difficulty of the swap (asked about below).

Options
  1. 5.3L LM7 'As-Is' / 4L80e - It has 165k on it and I heard it run/checked it over before the guy pulled it. I'll admit it's a little hard for me to think of installing it as-is while it's out of the vehicle with everything accessible, but this is the most budget-friendly option. I could sell this engine as it sits for ~$800 (so for comparison purposes that's what I'm putting here) and I could get a used 4L80e for ~$800, total cost $1600.
  2. 5.3L LM7 Refresh / 4L80e - I figure it'll be around $1200 to 'refresh' the LM7, replacing all seals, bearings, rings (reusing pistons), and having the heads gone through. That'd bring the total cost to $2800 (approaching Gen IV/6L80 territory).
  3. Gen IV LY5 5.3L or LY6 6.0L / 6L80e - I've seen low-ish mileage (~130k-150k) combo's on eBay for around $3500, a bit more for the 6.0L. It seems I could save a at least a few hundred if I bought the engine and transmission separately, but I've heard horror stories of these engines and transmissions from different vehicles (asked about below).

Goals
  1. Reliability - If I can't rely on this thing to get me to remote areas and home there's no point in owning an 80.
  2. Ability to use 87 octane and get decent fuel mileage.
  3. Power - I'm not sure if the increased fuel consumption and reduced range of a 6.0L would make up for the increase in power. I honestly didn't think the 1FZ was too bad.
Questions
  1. I've seen a lot of different motor mounts used over the years, which ones do you recommend now?
    1. It's been mentioned repeatedly that sticking with the GM mounts is recommended due to the way they isolate the vibrations of these engines, but I haven't seen anyone who has done this.
    2. These from The Land Cruiser Shop are tempting, as they're made for our application and they're finished nicely. As others have said though, I'd be stuck with the position they chose. I emailed them about availability on 11/16 and still haven't heard back.
    3. Mark's have difficulty with LHD vehicles, but I could modify them and it appears they may be included with the 6L80e kit, saving me money.
    4. Dirty Dingo kits seem to be a popular option, I think most go with the hot rod kit?
  2. How much more difficult is it to swap a 6L80e over a 4L80e, both in terms of fitment and wiring? Hoping @bloc, @Lionsgarage, @MAG58, @Squad1, @TonyP can shed some light.
  3. Do any of you wish you'd gone with a 5.3L or 6.0L rather than what you went with?

Thanks for letting me get my thoughts on paper. Hoping some of you might have some opinions or advice :)
Ive been looking into using 4bt liquid filled motor mounts. They look easy to adapt. My aa mounts cause some vibration.
 

cruisermatt

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Ive been looking into using 4bt liquid filled motor mounts. They look easy to adapt. My aa mounts cause some vibration.

those are probably going to be too stiff for a LS. They squish good with a motor that weighs triple.
I'd recommend the Envoy/Trailblazer V8 mounts if you want maximum comfort, just have you get your hands on the brackets to bolt them to the motor which aren't available new so you'll have to get them from a junkyard.

I'm now running one of these on the compression side (passenger side) and a Jeep XJ leaf spring bushing as the mount on the tension side (driver's side) and am very happy with it on the road so far. Trail testing next weekend.

s-l300.jpg
 

BajaCruiser94

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Been looking for a previous post, I found the question was asked but no solid answer, so here I go...

On my LQ9 swap, the donor engine comes from a Escalade equiped with Hydroboost; I used the power steering pump that came with the engine; plugged the extra port as commented in this thread, I've been driving the rig for a year now; and im not liking the oversensitive steering at highway speeds.

Comparing specs, I found the following
- Toyota pump - 1500 psi and 2.750 GPM
- LS pump - 1300-1559 psi and 3.5-3.9 GPM (Escalade)

Is it possible that the Escalade pump added flow is driving the oversensitivity on the steering box? Pressure rates are in the ballpark, but flow is significantly higher.

Any thoughts on this, or has anyone encountered this problem on their swap?

-Emerson.

Just wanted to follow up in this; I installed a flow restrictor from TurnOne Steering,


It improved significantly, and will highly recommend to anyone using a Hydroboost pump in their swap (without the hrydo option); no side effects felt on low speed nor highspeed.

-Emerson.
 
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This is a little off subject, but I hadn't seen it covered in this (or any other 80 / LS swap) forum. Has anyone dealt with the key staying stuck in the ignition after the swap? If I disconnect the battery, I can get my key out. I assume it has to do with removing the harness (and transmission P/N safety switch in the process). Wondering how others have overcome this problem.
Wrapping up a L92 & 6l80e into a '94.
 

thatcabledude

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This is a little off subject, but I hadn't seen it covered in this (or any other 80 / LS swap) forum. Has anyone dealt with the key staying stuck in the ignition after the swap? If I disconnect the battery, I can get my key out. I assume it has to do with removing the harness (and transmission P/N safety switch in the process). Wondering how others have overcome this problem.
Wrapping up a L92 & 6l80e into a '94.
No. That’s a new one for me. You sure the shifter is firmly into the “park” detent? That’s all I can think of.
 

ppc

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There was a similar question posted about a month ago on an older thread.

 

Stoshu

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Anybody out there do an LS swap into a 91 or 92 FJ80? Looking for advice on what to eliminate from the factory wiring harness. I've got EWD's for this year, but was hoping someone might have a record of what they gutted.

Thanks!
 
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anyone been able to fit a 4" turbo downpipe in their engine bay and down to about the lower firewall area?
I've always thought twin turbos would actually fit better and allow for smaller down pipe since you would have 2 down pipes. It's amazing the economical turbo options that are available for LS stuff. I think your 60 could use a couple more hundred horses.
 
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Hi all

Does anyone have any experiences/views/thoughts/ramblings about Holley Terminator X Max? I'm considering it in my planning for a swap. I'm totally capable of using an OE LS harness but the appeal of not needing to send away the ECM and/or buy HP tuners and is pretty high - plus an all new harness and trans control. ooooh and a shiney LCD for the cab!
 
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Hi all

Does anyone have any experiences/views/thoughts/ramblings about Holley Terminator X Max? I'm considering it in my planning for a swap. I'm totally capable of using an OE LS harness but the appeal of not needing to send away the ECM and/or buy HP tuners and is pretty high - plus an all new harness and trans control. ooooh and a shiney LCD for the cab!
My brother used it on his crawler, and my neighbor used it on his LS swapped Mustang. Both of them are very happy with it.
 

thatcabledude

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Hi all

Does anyone have any experiences/views/thoughts/ramblings about Holley Terminator X Max? I'm considering it in my planning for a swap. I'm totally capable of using an OE LS harness but the appeal of not needing to send away the ECM and/or buy HP tuners and is pretty high - plus an all new harness and trans control. ooooh and a shiney LCD for the cab!
I have several friends who have used various Holly systems. Only complaint I've heard is the harness can look sloppily done when installed because its "universal". You can de-loom and clean it up though.
 
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I have several friends who have used various Holly systems. Only complaint I've heard is the harness can look sloppily done when installed because its "universal". You can de-loom and clean it up though.
Thanks, yeah I have heard that too. Might consider the unterminated harness. Plus that way I have an excuse to get some nicer crimpers!
 

masong

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Anybody out there do an LS swap into a 91 or 92 FJ80? Looking for advice on what to eliminate from the factory wiring harness. I've got EWD's for this year, but was hoping someone might have a record of what they gutted.

Thanks!
I'm working on this same year as well, and getting ready to modify my LM7 harness to add some sensor wires to it, oil pressure and water temp, for the Toyota gauges. I'm definitely curious as to what people have chopped from the Toyota harness side of things.
 

Stoshu

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I'm working on this same year as well, and getting ready to modify my LM7 harness to add some sensor wires to it, oil pressure and water temp, for the Toyota gauges. I'm definitely curious as to what people have chopped from the Toyota harness side of things.
Same here. Pulling the 3FE tomorrow and have been studying the EWD's like a Rabbi does the Torah.

Best I can tell everything from the ECU can get ditched. My only concern is maintaining the transfer case wiring and dash lights for those fuctions, along with oil pressure and water temp.

Looks like oil pressure and water temp can be fed to the dash through the IH2 under dash connector. My plan is to trace those two wires out and strip them from the engine harness. The rest will get pulled with the engine.
 
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