89' FJ 62 Pre Purchase Inspection questions (1 Viewer)

WWT

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Hello MUD'ers,

Hoping for input/feedback. I've searched existing threads was hoping for additional information.

Looking at buying a 89’ FJ62 Cruiser: 297K miles, A440F, 3FE

It’s located out of state so needing to get a PPI done. The shop that was listed on the “Mechanics by State list” on here is now permanently closed, but there are a number of shops that offer PPI’s, including a NAPA center as well as smaller shops that work on classic cars, etc.

Was looking for any input on specific things to have PPI look at/for for a FJ62. Here’s what I’ve been able to find, would appreciate any thoughts on if these are accurate or any additional things to check.

Engine, Tranny:
-Check tranny fluid, consider passive flush (Rodney?)
-Throttle cable for slack
-Check fuel filter, air filter, throttle body
-W/ high mileage do a compression test?
-Oil galley plug, replace if has not been?
-Does tranny shift smoothly?
-Factory AC, says blows cold.

New parts:
-Seller claims new power steering, alternator, brakes, radiator, hoses, belts, and seals

Suspension:
-OME 3” lift, 32x11.5 R15 tires. No gearing change in axles, would this wheel size cause an issue?
-Any specific wear to check for due to set up? (Control arms, CV boots, etc?)
-Front axle sludge from knuckles? (Have saw this mentioned for FJ 60’s, same for 62?)

4WD
-Check for engagement (Hi/Lo)
-Any other specifics to check on this? (Do 89’s have electric and vacuum switched 4wd system?)

Body/Rust:
-Pics show some rust behind front and rear wheel wells, (Pics below). Going to have roof rails, windshield area and frame checked as well. Does existing rust indicate raise serious concern or as it's in a known area for rust seems manageable to repair?

Use:
For context looking at this as a possible rig we'd take down to Baja and leave there as a desert/beach vehicle for exploring. Would do some mods for use/environment, (2nd tranny cooler, possible gearing change, steering dampener, etc), but not looking for a show car per say. Would plan on baselining it but with milage also open to thoughts on possible engine re-build to maintain lifespan. Not looking to do an engine swap (at least right now)


What am I missing?

Many thanks.

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3_puppies

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with that mileage, the trans output splines could be nearing the end of there life, there is a work around for it.
is there a clunk when shifting from P to D or from D to R

sludge on knuckles, most likely will need a re-build going thru, inner axle seal could be leaking, yes same as a 60 axle
 
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WWT

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with that mileage, the trans output splines could be nearing the end of there life, there is a work around for it.
is there a clunk when shifting from P to D or from D to R

sludge on knuckles, most likely will need a re-build going thru, inner axle seal could be leaking, yes same as a 60 axle
Thank you. Any experience or thoughts on having serviced w/ a Extreme valve body and a MacNamara input gear? (Saw this here), vs. other rebuild options?
Digging into threads on this too.
 

EscapeWagon62

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If you plan on sticking with the A440F, replace the kickdown cable when changing your trans fluid.
Manny of the performance issues on these transmissions are related to binding, frayed or mis-adjusted kickdowns.
As for the extreme valve body....think is you really need the torque converter to lockup in 3rd gear. My bet is that with those size tires it will bog down when locked?
When checking the transmission.....loose kickdown will upshift way too early. Too tight and your shifts will be harsh. If shifting is vauge/hunting/feels like it isnt fully engaging/slipping there is nothing a valve body will do to fix it. It’s rebuild time and few can do it with quality.

Severity of rust and health of A440F are primary. Most other items are relatively straight forward to sort.
 
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RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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Here's the thread from when I installed my valve body. That truck has been parked for a few years (future drivetrain donor for a rust free 62), but I was always quite happy with the improvement the valve body gave.

Cruiser Brothers (@orangefj45 and @wardharris) are the North American distributors for Wholesale Automatic, and if I'm not mistaken they also offer McNamara gears, or an equivalent.

 

g-man

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Grease/dirt buildup on the knuckles is really pretty normal after years. I mean there is a felt gasket but they get soaked and a bit the oil in the grease is going to make it's way thru.
What is NOT normal is gear oil and grease mix running down the inner tire. It may also contaminate your brakes. At that point the axle seal has come loose and gear oil from the axle is migrating into the knuckle. This usually happens when the inner axle gets too much play from parts coming loose and starts banging on the seal. Then it's time for a knuckle rebuild. Not a deal killer by any means.

Rust can be a deal killer esp...when the rear of the frame starts looking like swiss cheese. Also rust in the roof, pillars, doors etc...it all becomes too much.

If you have rust in the quarters and fenders, make sure to look at the floor where it meets the front of the rear inner fenderwell. Also around the front doors just inboard of the scuff plates.
 
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orangefj45

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Here's the thread from when I installed my valve body. That truck has been parked for a few years (future drivetrain donor for a rust free 62), but I was always quite happy with the improvement the valve body gave.

Cruiser Brothers (@orangefj45 and @wardharris) are the North American distributors for Wholesale Automatic, and if I'm not mistaken they also offer McNamara gears, or an equivalent.

Thanks for the mention!

Yes, were the US importer for WAT ( Nomad HD valve body ) as well as LRA fuel tanks and other goodies from Oz
We also stock/sell lots of service items including knuckle kits and everything knuckle/axle/trans and tcase related. That of course includes the long-spline input gears
Happy to help if you need any input, tech support or parts
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
 
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It’s located out of state so needing to get a PPI done.

I'd sure try to get a hard core cruiserhead or a Toyota-shop to look at it. And with those miles, I would assume that either the engine or trans will need significant work, which is just a function of 300K miles. So, don't pay too much for this truck. Or, fly out and see it yourself.
 
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diesellibrarian

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Speaking from experience, there's going to be more rust than meets the eye. Likely the inner fenders are rusty as well, and looking at the lower rear quarters, I would say that the inner quarters are likely rusty as well. None of the aftermarket panels I've seen include the "divot" for the rear bumper, so you're going to need some custom fabrication to patch that up. Or, you can do as some have done and chop the rear quarters, which is simpler, but will alter the stock appearance.

My guess is that there's rust in the rockers as well. Unless you do it yourself, none of that repair work will be cheap.
 
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I just bought an 89 J62 out of state sight unseen. Sent it through 2 pre-purchase inspections. If you’d like the 2 print outs I’ll send the Q&A so you can see the thinking. If I had to do over again I’d hire a spiritual leader to go with me before I’d trust another sob that claims anything. Months into my adventure I’ve realized I’ve got serious trust issues now. Here’s one for you. I sent the truck to a “Toyota classic shop” for pre-purchase. Owner happened to know the owner, paid him off, forged documents and now lawsuit.
 

WWT

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I just bought an 89 J62 out of state sight unseen. Sent it through 2 pre-purchase inspections. If you’d like the 2 print outs I’ll send the Q&A so you can see the thinking. If I had to do over again I’d hire a spiritual leader to go with me before I’d trust another sob that claims anything. Months into my adventure I’ve realized I’ve got serious trust issues now. Here’s one for you. I sent the truck to a “Toyota classic shop” for pre-purchase. Owner happened to know the owner, paid him off, forged documents and now lawsuit.

I just bought an 89 J62 out of state sight unseen. Sent it through 2 pre-purchase inspections. If you’d like the 2 print outs I’ll send the Q&A so you can see the thinking. If I had to do over again I’d hire a spiritual leader to go with me before I’d trust another sob that claims anything. Months into my adventure I’ve realized I’ve got serious trust issues now. Here’s one for you. I sent the truck to a “Toyota classic shop” for pre-purchase. Owner happened to know the owner, paid him off, forged documents and now lawsuit.
Oh man, that sounds like a sold in bad faith situation for sure. I've bought a number of vehicles sight unseen, and been burned a few times even with an inspection, so yes, I'd love to get the Q and A from you. Please DM me.
 

Engineer8000

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I may be stating the obvious, but make sure it idles correctly both cold and warm and doesn't hesitate off idle. Verify no CEL codes. Don't underestimate the frustration and $ figuring out an idle problem with the 3FE.
 
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Oh man, that sounds like a sold in bad faith situation for sure. I've bought a number of vehicles sight unseen, and been burned a few times even with an inspection, so yes, I'd love to get the Q and A from you. Please DM me.
Let me dig the sheet out of the file and I’ll pm you
 
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