88 FJ62 Characoal Canaster Pressure Buildup (1 Viewer)

[88Retired62]

Infamous "wooosh" when opening gas cap filler. This is a " big wooosh" and just a "little wwooosh"!! Cannot sense an operating issue but obviously an issue none the less -

1. Can I reverse the lines going into the canaster?
OR
2. Can I unhook the input and output lines. Attach a small filter ( similar to a differential breather) to the input line coming from the tank to the canaster AND block off the line exiting the canaster thus removing the canaster completely?

I no longer come under the annual Texas emissions inspection (safety only) and I doubt an inspector would notice a missing canaster and I would the extra space.

Anyone have a solution based on the above options or an alternative fix?

 

[Output Shaft]

Just swap the hoses on the canister. The "Tank" port on the canister has an internal check valve that has gummed up. Can't be cleaned. The "Purge" port on the canister doesn't have a check valve & breathes freely.

You "could" just install air filters to the tank vent lines (if you wanted to) in order to remove the cc if it's really bugging you. But don't toss it. Who knows if you might sell the cruiser one day and the new buyer might need it.

 

[wdbmd]

I had this problem and I sprayed some PB Blaster down the Tank port. I'm assuming the internal check valve started working again bc I no longer have the "whoosh" when opening up the gas cap. Also I don't have the smell of gas fumes hovering around the LC.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Not preaching here but besides being an emissions component (keeping raw gas fumes out of the air) it also keeps your fuel system fully sealed from out side air and moisture it brings. Maybe not a problem in Texas but with a fully vented open to the atmosphere system daily swings in temperature will bring in air and moisture as the tank cools off at night if all you have is a fuel filter (or similar) in place of the canister system.

It's your rig you can of course run it any way you want but I like a working EVAP emissions system just to keep moisture in the air out of the fuel system - some of what I have gets rarely driven.

Eric

 

[bhk]

Most, if not all, aftermarket canisters are designed for fuel injected vehicles and should hook up with minimal effort. The biggest issue is fitment, the popular replacements are a little larger than OEM. The Duralast VC120 (also cross-lists to other companies) has been swapped in many times, but at one point looked like it had been discontinued. ACDelco 215-153 also works. Either of these run about $60. There's a LONG thread over in the 80's section. Skip to post #541 for a good writeup on the 215-153.

Charcoal Canister - Great Option!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Not preaching here but besides being an emissions component (keeping raw gas fumes out of the air) it also keeps your fuel system fully sealed from out side air and moisture it brings. Maybe not a problem in Texas but with a fully vented open to the atmosphere system daily swings in temperature will bring in air and moisture as the tank cools off at night if all you have is a fuel filter (or similar) in place of the canister system.

It's your rig you can of course run it any way you want but I like a working EVAP emissions system just to keep moisture in the air out of the fuel system - some of what I have gets rarely driven.

Eric

Yup and I'll add that swapping the lines (as many suggest) isn't the wisest from what I have read via JimC. When I decided to tackle mine (fj60) I knew swapping the liens would be fruitless because the purge line was plugged way over at the drivers side. I cut and gutted and refilled my canister with great results. No more whoosh.

 

[SeattleFJ62]

I used this option, has worked perfectly: Charcoal Canister - Great Option!

 

[Spook50]

I'm going to have to do this for my 62 as well. I've had the lines switched since last summer and would like to have a functioning canister in there.

@SeattleFJ62 did you use the VC120 canister or the Delco 215-153?

 

[TexasBlue]

I did this swap on my 60, no more whoosh. Swapping lines, purge and tank is short term. you'll probably smell gas fumes if you park in a garage. I bought my VC120 equivalent from Amazon for about @$56. It had to secured with zip ties as it is larger diameter CC than stock, and now no more fumes and whoosh.

 

[Shacklewhacker]

Also, do not overlook the VCV (that resides over by the HAC valve by the driver's side fender). The VCV is what dictates when the EVAP canister is purged (based on BVSV temp and amount of vacuum). See diagram below. The VCV can be bench tested if you have a vacuum pump and such. If the VCV is bad, then the canister will not be purged, thus the tank wont be purged of vapor/pressure. My VCV was bad, I was getting the "whoosh", and once I replaced the VCV, no more "whoosh" and lingering fuel smells.
The original VCVs (same one is used to control purge of ozone from the dizzy) are no longer available, but OEM part number 90925-03192 is a direct later model replacement, except the S port is 180 degrees off of the original location (nothing that isn't cured with a little extra vacuum line). Olathe Toyota has them available online, but they are not cheap:
Genuine OEM Toyota Valve Vacuum Control | 90925-03192 : Toyota Parts Online | Olathe Toyota Parts Center

 

[SeattleFJ62]

I'm going to have to do this for my 62 as well. I've had the lines switched since last summer and would like to have a functioning canister in there.

@SeattleFJ62 did you use the VC120 canister or the Delco 215-153?

@Spook50 Apologies for the slow reply! I used the VC120 canister - has been on for about 2 years and all works well, over the mountain passes and at sea level.

 

[Output Shaft]

My VCV was bad, I was getting the "whoosh", and once I replaced the VCV, no more "whoosh" and lingering fuel smells.

That shouldn't happen (replacing EVAP VCV depressurizes the gas tank). The charcoal canister is supposed to breathe freely to atmosphere at its bottom port. If replacing the EVAP VCV fixed your over pressure in the tank, the charcoal canister is plugged at the bottom. Test it with low pressurized air as shown in the FSM. Air should flow freely from the PURGE port out the bottom port of the CC.

 

[Shacklewhacker]

That shouldn't happen (replacing EVAP VCV depressurizes the gas tank). The charcoal canister is supposed to breathe freely to atmosphere at its bottom port. If replacing the EVAP VCV fixed your over pressure in the tank, the charcoal canister is plugged at the bottom. Test it with low pressurized air as shown in the FSM. Air should flow freely from the PURGE port out the bottom port of the CC.

Thanks - will test.

 

[88Retired62]

I've discovered at least four aftermarket Vapor Canisters that will replace the FJ62 Canisters with mounting modifications but some of them appear to lack the bottom vent. Can anyone list the Canisters with the third bottom vent and if not, is anyone drilling a third bottom vent? Any consequences operating with just the two openings PURGE & TANK?

 

[Output Shaft]

The problem with having no vent at the bottom is that fuel can (and will) burp out of the gas tank through the vent lines into the charcoal canister if the gas tank is filled to the brim.

Without a drain at the bottom off the cc, it can accumulate liquid fuel.
I once had gasoline gushing out of the bottom of the cc (not dribbling) when I once filled the gas tank to the top of the fill neck. If there hadn't been a drain at the bottom of the cc, it would have almost filled up with gasoline.

 

[ravenplague]

I've discovered at least four aftermarket Vapor Canisters that will replace the FJ62 Canisters with mounting modifications but some of them appear to lack the bottom vent. Can anyone list the Canisters with the third bottom vent and if not, is anyone drilling a third bottom vent? Any consequences operating with just the two openings PURGE & TANK?

I think the AC one I used did not have a proper vent hose off the bottom but it is designed to do so as it is two pieces.. I could be tripping out but remember wondering that when I installed it on my 60. So far it has been working without any issues

 

[bhk]

At least on the ACDelco 215-153, the fresh air vent is located on the top of the canister. I think the VC120 is similar. I deleted the lower vent tube on my 60 when I installed the 215-153. That probably precludes the air inlet acting as a drain point if liquid fuel gets into the canister.

 

[bhk]

At least on the ACDelco 215-153, the fresh air vent is located on the top of the canister. I think the VC120 is similar. I deleted the lower vent tube on my 60 when I installed the 215-153. That probably precludes the air inlet acting as a drain point if liquid fuel gets into the canister.

View attachment 1440176

But then again, there's the "splash cap". If the air tube goes to the bottom of the canister, it might allow liquid fuel to be pushed out if the canister gets pressurized. According to the directions for the 215-153, the splash cap can be removed if there's an extra line available to attach to the fresh air inlet.

 

[88Retired62]

I see said the Blind Man!!! Although rare, sounds like a possible vehicle fire or a bunker buster ready to explode in a very warm engine compartment if the splash cap erupts under pressure. On my original vapor canister the bottom vent is attached to a very long hose exiting toward the rear of the vehicle away from the exhaust tubes. I say "original" because I'm the original owner and never had previous issues with the canister. Looks like I'll be extending that hose to the splash cap barbed fresh air tube. Thanx guys for the schematic and your installation expertise.

 

[micruz60]

On my original 60 that air vent hose routes into the box frame via one of the square openings.