88 FJ-62 dies at stoplights (1 Viewer)

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Jul 25, 2018
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Memphis
So I am trying to run down an issue with my FJ-62. It probably started happening 4 or 5 years ago. When I drive at higher speeds, like on the interstate, for any length of time, she often sputters and dies as I either come off the interstate and stop or come to a stoplight. Now typically she starts right back up no problem and runs fine although she may or may not die at the next stop. However every once in a while she does not restart. On those occasions nothing happens. Won't turn over, won't engage the starter etc. This usually resolves itself in a few minutes. Sometimes moving the gearshift from park to drive and back will fix it.

In the last few years I have replaced - off the top of my head (not just because of this fyi): alternator, starter, distributor, distributor cap, rotor, battery, fuel filter. Currently the air pump is loose and that could be causing some fluctuation in power to the alternator?

This issue doesn't happen all the time, nor does it typically happen when running around town. I've run thru ALL the "LC mechanics" in town (none of whom even listened to me) plus a friend who does side work, and now I am the closest to tracking it down but my current guy is 100 miles away and he wanted me to reach out to the forum for ideas before I take it back down there at the end of the month. I would love to hear what y'all think!
 

diesellibrarian

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This is from the service manual:

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Joined
Jul 25, 2018
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Memphis
awesome thanks! I have the service manual file on my laptop and I will check print those out! Thanks. :)
 
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Won't turn over, won't engage the starter etc. This usually resolves itself in a few minutes. Sometimes moving the gearshift from park to drive and back will fix it.

To me, you may have two problems - an ignition, wiring, or fuel issue, and a neutral safety switch issue.

The ignition or fuel situation could be a bad coil or ignitor. You could also have iffy connections from the battery at the fusible links - go wiggle them while the engine is running. Be sure to get your alternator belt tight and see that the alternator is producing 14.5v at the battery or so when the engine is running. Turn on the headlights and heater fan and check the voltage again. Your EGR valve could be sticking open randomly, causing a stall-at-idle situation.

One issue is that you have a 30 year old truck, and this problem could be any number of things, and the only way to determine the real cause is to go through the ignition, wiring, and fuel systems methodically. While the engine is running, jiggle the key in the ignition (vigorously) and see if the engine stumbles. Wiggle some harness bundles under the hood while it's running. Inspect any wire or harness bundle laying across any metal parts.

As for the neutral safety switch, this part may be solely responsible for the truck failing to restart after it does stall.

I'm sure others will have many ideas, but the possible causes of this are many and may be time-consuming to track down.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
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180
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Squamish, BC
Check the harness where it crosses the engine at the firewall, conveniently under the air intake manifold. I had similar problems, where it would stall at stoplight. Usually would fire up again after a few tries. Would sometimes hesitate while driving; felt like fuel flow issue. Turned out that wire sheaths had melted, wites were shorting, and eventually it fubar'd. Either remove manifold (pita) or try to check continuity on each wire of harness (pita as well). HTH.
 
Joined
Jul 25, 2018
Messages
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Location
Memphis
Won't turn over, won't engage the starter etc. This usually resolves itself in a few minutes. Sometimes moving the gearshift from park to drive and back will fix it.

To me, you may have two problems - an ignition, wiring, or fuel issue, and a neutral safety switch issue.

The ignition or fuel situation could be a bad coil or ignitor. You could also have iffy connections from the battery at the fusible links - go wiggle them while the engine is running. Be sure to get your alternator belt tight and see that the alternator is producing 14.5v at the battery or so when the engine is running. Turn on the headlights and heater fan and check the voltage again. Your EGR valve could be sticking open randomly, causing a stall-at-idle situation.

One issue is that you have a 30 year old truck, and this problem could be any number of things, and the only way to determine the real cause is to go through the ignition, wiring, and fuel systems methodically. While the engine is running, jiggle the key in the ignition (vigorously) and see if the engine stumbles. Wiggle some harness bundles under the hood while it's running. Inspect any wire or harness bundle laying across any metal parts.

As for the neutral safety switch, this part may be solely responsible for the truck failing to restart after it does stall.

I'm sure others will have many ideas, but the possible causes of this are many and may be time-consuming to track down.
I actually purchased a used neutral safety switch a few months back but the one shop in Memphis that I will even let touch her wouldn't put it on because the one I got was in worse shape than the one on the truck. (I still have it). It was missing one of the wires it should have had. And I purchased the neutral safety switch because of the fact that when it wont restart - usually messing around with the gear shift fixes it. That was the common thinking amongst my cadre of mechanic friends over the phone.

I will definitely try the jiggling the key. Much like many of us - I can take the key out while driving - I don't but it has happened once or twice.

Thanks for the great ideas!
 
Joined
Jul 25, 2018
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Memphis
Have you tried here MOSLEY MOTORS. This shop is in Memphis.
I have not. I'm currently comfortable taking it to Iuka. I may at some point take it to Mosley. I do have a shop in Memphis that I trust enough to do basic stuff. I had 2 REALLY expensive and VERY unsatisfying experiences with highly recommended Memphis shops in the last 2 years. And those weren't the first ;). (The 1st shop I took her to 10 years ago tried to kill her)

While I don't spend much time wrenching on my cruiser - if I know more about her than the person working on her AND they don't listen to me AND don't fix the problem I brought her in for, that definitely doesn't make me happy.
 

cruisermatt

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I have not. I'm currently comfortable taking it to Iuka. I may at some point take it to Mosley. I do have a shop in Memphis that I trust enough to do basic stuff. I had 2 REALLY expensive and VERY unsatisfying experiences with highly recommended Memphis shops in the last 2 years. And those weren't the first ;). (The 1st shop I took her to 10 years ago tried to kill her)

While I don't spend much time wrenching on my cruiser - if I know more about her than the person working on her AND they don't listen to me AND don't fix the problem I brought her in for, that definitely doesn't make me happy.

Cameron @ Mosley is active on this forum and is a Cruiser expert. So did you find the bad ground yet? The next time you are having problems get under the hood and just shake the main ground cables
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
180
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Squamish, BC
It is possible to bypass the Neutral Start switch to isolate it; this is done when converting an auto to a manual, so if you search in those forums you should be able to find it, or by looking at schematic. I did it so many years ago I can't remember which wire it was.
 
Joined
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Sunspot AZ
Cameron @ Mosley is active on this forum and is a Cruiser expert. So did you find the bad ground yet? The next time you are having problems get under the hood and just shake the main ground cables
Replaced grounds on friends '88 FJ62. Battery to engine, to frame, and to body. His factory original -battery cable was toast.
 

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