87 SR5 22re (1 Viewer)

[KLF]

I just don't recall ever seeing a window control like that on a minitruck. But then again, I don't recall what I had for lunch yesterday either.

There are fuses for the windows, actually they are circuit breakers.

 

[Northwestern]

Any suggestions where I might find the circuit breaker?

I checked all the ones under the steering wheel & the ones under the hood.


My greatest fear is i fried the motors for the power windows.

I heard it could be the door control unit? Not sure where to find it.

Thanks

 

[KLF]

My truck didn't have power windows from the factory (has them now) so I'm not sure where the breaker and control box is. I had to put all the wiring in from scratch. The only thing the control box does is have a timer that gives you about a minute to put the windows up after you shut the truck off (or until you open a door). I wired my windows so they are always on, no key needed.

The motors in these trucks are pretty stout, if you fried one you'd see and smell it.

 

[KLF]

Pulled out my '88 wiring manual today. The window circuit breaker is on the fuseblock at the driver's left foot, behind the kick panel. It is a small round button thing that hangs off to the right of the fuseblock.

Here's the wiring diagram. The "Door Control Relay" box is under the engine EFI computer, under the pass side kick panel.

 

[KoffeeKommando]

I have an 87 SR5 4Runner parts truck with all the stock switches. PM me with what you need.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

Any suggestions where I might find the circuit breaker?

I checked all the ones under the steering wheel & the ones under the hood.

My greatest fear is i fried the motors for the power windows.

I heard it could be the door control unit? Not sure where to find it.

Thanks

Bummer . Mine fried with all the windows in the down position, which was a problem with the rain we get in FL.

You likely fried one of the solders on the window and door lock relay. It is behind/under the ECU relay box in the passenger's side kick panel.

Sorry this happened, Switch Doctor will send you the right wiring configuration, but they don't do a very good job of stressing the consequences of using the switch in the wrong wiring configuration. I talked to somebody in their customer service about it, but they didn't seem all that concerned.

Best case, you may be able to have the relay box fixed, or find one from a used truck. Worst case you can't find a replacement or fix, and will have to re-wire the windows like I did

I'll try and find my old relay box and post some pics on what to look for

 

[KLF]

Check the wiring diagram above, if the control relay box is fried, it's easy to get rid of it, just jumper pin 5 to pin 12 in the plug. You only lose the key-off timer, no big deal.

 

[Northwestern]

hey guys,

This is what i have found so far.

This is the relay that i found with a few simple google searches. below is the picture

It's a Relay M4 90987-02004 but it's been re-seedy with a new part from Toyota and from other auto parts store so it's no longer available from the stores.

I also came across this when i was doing more search and it sounds more like what you guys above have been talking about.

I am hoping to order or add a cheater wire but i am not 100% clear on the jump between 5 & 12 plug. not overly concerned about key-off. Actually be ok to be able to roll up & down the window without the wire.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

Do you have power locks on your truck? I think the one on the top is the relay module for 88 and up trucks, which likely may not work on an '87.

The relay off my '87 4Runner P/N was 85980-89101, it is the front window and power door lock module.

There a crap ton of relay boxes that look the same, have same plugs but don't work.

I bypassed the relay completely and got a 30A breaker and some 30a reverse polarity rocker switches and just wired the front windows direct to the battery.

 

[KLF]

The "Door Control" box pictured above actually does 2 things, it provides the timer that keeps the windows powered for about 30 seconds, but the other thing it does is provide a pulse timer for the locks. When you hit the lock or unlock button, it actually sends a short pulse to the doors to fire the lock solenoids. This is there to keep something from cooking the solenoids if the button were to be held down. I used that side of this module in my truck, it also worked well with the remote keyless entry system I installed.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

Yeah, even though the window relay was fried, I do still use the relay still for keyless entry also

 

[Northwestern]

Hey,

I took my Ohms meter and walked through the truck. I have power at the "door control unit" and power at the relay point but no power at the window plug. I have power locks and they continued to work and still work. I ordered a new relay and hopefully it solves the problem. If i haven't solved it with the relay then i'll run a direct wire from the battery.

The relay seems to be the problem but it's unknown at this moment. Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you guys posted when the relay arrives.

Thanks.

 

[KLF]

Where specifically did you find that relay? According to the wiring diagram (above) there is no separate relay.

There is a relay in the middle of the fuseblock down by the driver's left foot and it looks just like that, but it is for the taillights.

Did you check the circuit breaker?

 

[Northwestern]

The relay that i found that doesn't seem to be working is the

EFI main Relay. I walked my ohms meter through all the fuses and they checked out. the 20a Power Window circuit breaker - seemed to be working but i'll check it again. any advice on checking it? I used an ohms meter and it worked but maybe i f-ed something up and it was a false positive.


Where did you find this great diagram? Love get my hands on one.


I am out of town until this coming Tuesday - I'll check it out again.

 

[KLF]

Generally a simple test light is better for this sort of thing. Clip the alligator on ground somewhere, then start at the beginning of the circuit and follow voltage until the light won't come on anymore, and there you have the fault.

The CB is the first thing in the feed to the circuit, so if you get any voltage downstream say at pin 5 of the Door Control relay box, then the CB is working.

All these diagrams are from an '88 electrical wiring manual. You can sometimes find these on eBay, incredibly useful for troubleshooting. Mine is going with the truck when it gets shipped to the buyer.

 

[pappy]

hey guys,


It's a Relay M4 90987-02004 but it's been re-seedy with a new part from Toyota and from other auto parts store so it's no longer available from the stores.

So, do you need a 90987-02004? I found a pair in my stash.

 

[Northwestern]

I just order a few off eBay actually. If you have an extra (2) circuit breaker 20a C.B Door Lock/ Power Window

I'll take em.

Just Directed massage you (pappy)

 

[Northwestern]

If i understand this correct. When i arrive home i will swap 20A from the door locks with the Power windows. I will first confirm my switch is wired correctly and hope that this circuit breaker is the issue.

If so then i can locate a circuit breaker and go from there. Wish me luck guys!

Thanks for all the help and will keep you posted on the progress

 

[pappy]

Question, if this is a circuit breaker, can it be reset? I have a couple of 30A CB and there is a hole in the front like it could be reset.

 

[Northwestern]

That my friend is a great question. I am not home and unable to tell you but i will do some research tomorrow and will get back to you.