87 runner cutting out (1 Viewer)

[BMAN]

Brother caled me up tonight with a problem he's having in his runner he just bought. Brought it over and we went for a spin. On acceleration the engine dies for about 2 seconds then jumps back to life. Seems to be more frequent under heavy acceleration but will happen intermitently when anywhere past 1/2 throttle. New fuel filter and tune-up/oil change within the past 2k miles. I'm leaning towards a spark problem because of the way it's just OFF then ON and not sputtering like I would expect a fuel delivery problem to do.

Any suggestions?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Sounds like a possible dead spot on the AFM or TPS....

 

[BMAN]

TPS I got but AFM?

 

[KLF]

I doubt it's the TPS, you can actually unplug it and the truck will still run, it will just go to "closed loop" condition.

There has to be a wiring fault somewhere. Check the wire that goes to the dist, the big fat bundle that goes thru the firewall to the ECU, stuff like that. Did you check to see if there are any codes stored?

 

[BMAN]

No CEL and no codes. It's weird. It just falls flat on it's face for 2 seconds then springs right back to life. The stall occurence is intermittent but the duration of the stall is consistent. I'm going to bring it back over to the house on Saturday to mess with it. I thought about it last night and decided that I'm going to see if it's completely stalling out by nailing the clutch as soon as it happens the next time. I think it's killing the ignition system completely then bump-starting itself which would deffinately lean me towards electrical.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Air flow meter very front of the engine bay on the drivers side.

 

[BMAN]

Ok... here's the scoop so far. After talking to some of the guys from my club about this on Friday night, we went ahead and replaced the TPS. reset ECU to make sure all codes are gone. Drive it...Same symptoms. Checked codes again... Code 7 (TPS). Consulted FSM and found I needed to set the TPS up properly. Did so tonight and... same symptoms, but now no code 7 only code 11 (TPS).

Any ideas?

 

[BUCKEYE4X4]

Mine had similar characteristics when I damaged the ECU. Try running a good ECU?

 

[BMAN]

I had a bad feeling that was where we were heading. I'm going to test the ecu tonight hopefully.

 

[morganism]

This is probobly the bad service from the battery to the main fuse block.
there is a bad crimp on the bottom of the fuse block from the main in.
go get some 3/8 round spade type connectors, some 12 gauge stranded wire, and a little solder.
unscrew the bolts holding the fuse block on the firewall, flip that puppy over, and replace it.
think there is one hidden screw on the fuse block, so don't force it.

still havin trouble, then replace the alt wire the same way, but go with the 10 gauge landscape low volt stranded wire.

solves most phantom troubles. this is the little gremlin in your engine compartment.

 

[BMAN]

ECU tested bad tonight. Could the wireing issues still be the cause?

 

[WristPin]

check for loose ground wires.

look at the spark advance

make sure your coil is not arcing out.

replace plug wires.

 

[elvi]

Ok... here's the scoop so far. After talking to some of the guys from my club about this on Friday night, we went ahead and replaced the TPS. reset ECU to make sure all codes are gone. Drive it...Same symptoms. Checked codes again... Code 7 (TPS). Consulted FSM and found I needed to set the TPS up properly. Did so tonight and... same symptoms, but now no code 7 only code 11 (TPS).

Any ideas?

Setting the TPS is a pain; and most forget to check if it's rotating smoothly. They have a bad habit of sticking. Get the FSM and bone up od setting it. Pull the TPS and rotate it 20 or 30 times just to see if it is sticky. It probably will be. Then, clean it with WD 40 untill it drips out clean, rotating it to clean it. You may need to let it soak for a hour or so to dissolve the varnish.

OK; now you have a clean TPS. IF your 22RE has the vacuum dashpot under the throttle screw; take note of that. It will effect:
1. Setting the idle
2. Getting codes.

If it has a dashpot; you must place a screwdriver or shim; OR enguage the dashpot with a vacuum pump or you will get a FALSE TPS code.

OK; now for you "Cutting out" issue.

Check your AFM or intake tube for a cut \ leaking boot.
You punch it; the engine torques over; exposes the leak, the AFM sees "Idle" and cuts the fuel back.

As for cleaning the AFM? Best not. You will funk one up that way