'87 FJ60 2F & H42 Complete Take-Out [East TN] (1 Viewer)

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I suppose this is technically a feeler since it isn't out and ready yet, but it will be soon. I wanted to go ahead and post this to give anybody who may be interested a chance to ask me any pertinent questions before the drivetrain is pulled.

I bought this Land Cruiser in August of '12. I'm sorry, I forget how many miles are on it exactly, but it's around 250k. I'll post the exact mileage as soon as I can. Yes, I will be doing a proper compression test (warmed up, plugs out) before I pull it, and while I can't promise I'll be able to post the video, I'll make one of it running.

Everything I know:
The engine runs very well. A previous owner tried to do a de-smog on it. He succeded in removing the air pump, but unfortunately also removed the HAC and screwed up the vacuum lines. Consequently, the engine doesn't start as easily under 60 degrees, but even so I started it today at 30 degrees after a few cranks with some ether. After it gets warmed up, the engine will diesel for a moment after cut-off. Since I'm doing an engine swap, I never tried to find out if it was due to the haphazard vacuum line routing, the plugged PCV, or carbon build-up in the engine. The first two should be inconsequential if you install the engine correctly and the latter isn't a difficult fix.

The good news is, I put 700-1000 miles on it and other than what I said, it's been a perfect engine. I haven't really noticed any oil consumption, but I have not driven it in a while and may be forgetting. I'll be paying attention when I check it out before I pull it. The good news is I've consistently gotten 16 MPG in my 60 with mixed driving. For a 2F, it has about as much power as can be expected. Still has plenty of torque, accelerates reasonably well, runs very smoothly, and handles highway driving well. I've had it up to 65-70 to see how it did. The transmission shifts very well; I wish my SM465 were this smooth. No problems with the clutch or flywheel.

Included with the sale:


  1. 1987 2F engine
  2. 1987 H42 transmission
  3. Coil/ignitor
  4. Choke cable (good)
  5. Air cleaner
  6. OEM-style K&N air filter (looks to be new)
  7. Denso reman alternator - brand new
  8. Cressida alternator - VR is on wrong side, good for dual alt. conversion
  9. Starter
  10. 4 speed shift knob - brand new
  11. Toyota oil filter - tall, Japanese version, maybe one of the last out there
  12. Toyota distributor cap, rotor, and o-ring - brand new
  13. Toyota drive belts - brand new
  14. Fan & clutch
  15. Coil & ignitor
  16. A/C compressor - will probably be included, but I have to make sure I won't need it first
  17. PS pump - same as A/C compressor; if included, this is a good unit that does not leak

Sorry for the long read. I wanted to be as detailed about this as possible. If there are any questions, feel free to ask. Looking back through the classifieds, I haven't seen a lot of later 2Fs, let alone complete take-outs, so I'm not yet sure what to ask and am open to offers.

ETA: I'm located in Oneida, TN, half way between Knoxville, TN, and Somerset, KY, on the state line. I work at a junkyard (no, we don't have any Land Cruisers), so I can ship the engine on your dime, but don't expect it to be under $100.
 
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Are you willing to separate major components?
 
I would like to try and sell it first altogether, but yes, I would consider it. What do you need?
 
Interested in the PS pump and its bracket lemme know if you do decide to separate.....How much for the whole motor?
 
Well, that's a bummer. I would have sworn that the engine was good, but I did a compression test and the numbers were disappointing.

  1. 100 PSI
  2. 100 PSI
  3. 100 PSI
  4. 75 PSI
  5. 85 PSI
  6. 100 PSI

The truck has 253k miles on it. I made a couple videos of it running and driving around the shop, but it was dark by the time I got to work on it, so you can't see a lot. I'll post them when I get to a place I can upload them. I put a good battery on it, and it started on the first crank. Didn't really smoke. I don't know when the valves were last adjusted - maybe that would make a difference, but I'd say the compression is still low enough that it will need a rebuild.

I know what the business I work at would get for these, so I'll base my price off that and go from there.

$1000 obo for the combo or if I split them up, $700 obo for the engine and its components and $300 obo for the transmission and accessories.
I know the engine's not worth that with those compression numbers, so feel free to make an offer. Worst I can say is no.
 
As promised! I apologize for the poor quality. Like I said, by the time I got a chance to work on it, it was too dark. And before anyone asks, yes, there is a cover for the air cleaner. I just had it and the plugs off for the compression test.

Engine idling. Ignore the whistling, that's just the poor quality mic picking up the air the fan is blowing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucDPuSZB5Ug&feature=youtu.be

Backing out, driving around the shop, and backing back in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaeEaPi00j8&feature=youtu.be

SAM_1749800x600_zpsaeebd316.jpg

SAM_1748800x600_zpse1fe4961.jpg

SAM_17451024x768_zpsa1e4f0f3.jpg

SAM_17441024x768_zps64bf28d3.jpg

SAM_17431024x768_zps6d095efb.jpg

SAM_17421024x768_zpsac88059a.jpg

SAM_1746800x600_zps11c2c19b.jpg
 
$800 OBO
 
Sorry, I should have specified $800 obo for everything or $600 obo engine/$200 obo trans.
 
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