86fj60/2f Rehab (1 Viewer)

Joined
May 30, 2006
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137
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Kittery Point, Maine
Thought I'd post the project that I'm doing to my 86fj60 here for anyone who might enjoy it. The project will be as follows. I'm attempting to rehab the engine without going through the expense of a full rebuild as I just can't afford it. Here's what I'm trying to do.

-Pull a lot of the engine apart and clean everything.
-Remove head and send out for "valve job"
-Possibly desomg if I can figure out what needs to be done.
-Headers and carb rebuild if I can afford.
-Literally pressure wash the 20 years of grime off engine & parts.
-Clean up and maybe repaint a few parts.
-New hoses throughout
-Rehad entire smog system if I can't do the desmog.
-Put all back together and have a "refreshed" engine.

I think this might be a nice project for those of us out there who can't afford a full rebuild and associated project but whose cruisers could use some attention. I'll post pic as I make my progress. Only a weekender.

Today was day one.
Took off hood
Took some before pictures
Drained radiator
Removed battery, alternator, radiator, fan/cluth/pulley
Removed air rail, valve cover and a bunch of smog crap
Removed many hoses
Started in on removing carb/intake/exhaust side
Stripped a srcew for the choke and called it quits for the day

Here are the photos-
 
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Joined
May 30, 2006
Messages
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Kittery Point, Maine
Let's try this.

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Joined
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Lots of fun. :D Sent you a PM. :cool:

Did you do a compression or leak down check to make sure the cylinders where okay before you started pulling stuff apart? Be sure and get the head magnafluxed while it's at the machine shop to be sure it has no cracks.

Keep us posted and don't be afraid to ask questions.
 
Joined
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Kittery Point, Maine
Thanks Dave- I plan on asking plenty of questions. Everyone should be thuroughly sick of me by the time I'm done.

I didn't do a leak down test but did test the compression of which was the topic of another thread. I'm thinking my engines main problem, other than being 20 years old is that it has a blown head gasket between the 3rd & 4th cylinders and that the valves need work and the head might be leaking a bit of oil. I guess we'll find out today as I plan on getting the head off if I have enough time in the day.
 

John McVicker

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Lots of fun. :D Sent you a PM. :cool:

Did you do a compression or leak down check to make sure the cylinders where okay before you started pulling stuff apart? Be sure and get the head magnafluxed while it's at the machine shop to be sure it has no cracks.

Keep us posted and don't be afraid to ask questions.
This would be a really good idea b4 you take that head off. You will gain a whole bunch more insight as to the condition of your engine.

I would buy, or beg or borrow a leak down tester. A good one cost $100 or much less & Harbor Freight. You will get a much more complete picture of your engine condition.

At the very least do a dry vs wet compression test prior to taking off the head. Otherwise you are just guessing as to the condition of the bottom end of your engine.

Sounds fun.

John
 
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Agree with the above sugestions to get both compression and leakdown tested. Especially since you are doing a valve job. A previous post on rebuilds said that a fresh head on worn rings will suck oil into the cylinders at a frightening rate. Oil consuption will skyrocket, plugs will foul, emissions will be hard to pass, etc.

One more thing, used oil analysis (UOA) is cheap - ~$20. This will give you a good idea of bearing wear w/out tear-down.

If UOA is poor, and/or compression/leadown is poor, then ignoring the bottom-end will be like building a house on a poor foundation.
 
Joined
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Kittery Point, Maine
Thanks for the advice guys. Here's what I'm going to do. (I didn't work on the truck today. It was to nice of a day and I had family stuff to do)

As suggested by some others on a previous thread I'm going to check compression in the 3rd & 4th cylinders with a plug in each one to find out if the head gasket is blown through. I'm also going to do a rudimentary test to see the condition of the rings in these two cylinders by adding a bit of oil into the cylinder and then testing compression. These test should give me a pretty good idea what is going on. I'm sure there is no doubt that the rings are pretty worn. However, even if they are the engine is not coming out of the vehicle. As I mentioned before this is a low cost, (Mostly my labor) reconditioning. I need the vechicle to last for about a year and a half before we move to New Zealand. The truck will sit until we return and then will go in for a complete resto. The main part of this will be a late model diesel engine swap and full frame off job.
Thanks again for all the advice and keep them coming!!!
I'll post again when I actually get something done. Probably next weekend.
 
Joined
Jun 16, 2005
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portland, OR
i just completed the process you're just starting. i DID do a compression test, wet as well.

total including magnaflux, valves, and gasket kit was $265.

just like you are suspecting, my head gasket was shot between three and four.

put it all together with the new gasket and wow....

i have a VERY noticeable increase in power and smoothness. it runs better than ever.

good luck.
 
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portland, OR
no desmog. in fact, after the new head and vacuum lines were installed, i was able to take the golf tees out of the egr and it runs great. i think my valves were way out of adjustment.

good luck.
 

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
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Let me know if you desmog it. I live in one of those states that require smog on rig back to and including 1976. I'd be interested in buying your smog stuff.
 
Joined
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Kittery Point, Maine
Hi guys-
Sorry that I haven't been keeping up with this thread. It's mainly because I haven't been working on the truck. Between too busy at work and all this crap weather we've been having I've just been slacking. Anyway, I did pull the head off and send it to the machine shop. Should have that back this week. I'll get some pictures of where we stand as well as a summary of work done and expenses soon as we finally have a sunny day that I'm not busy.
I have a question. I want to replace all hoses & smog lines when I put this thing back together. (decided against the desmog) Anyone know of a good source for these items? Also, I want to paint a bunch of the stuff in the engine to help protect. Any sugestions? Thanks
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Kittery Point, Maine
Here are a few pictures of where I am right now. I'm waiting for the head to come back then will start to put everything back together while trying to clean everything up and replace a few items. I've got a couple of questions.
The head gasket is a real pain in the a!! It came off but there's a bunch of it still left on there. Any suggestions on the best way to remove it? I'm scared about small bits falling into the case if I scrape it.
Also, I seem to have a bent frame. If you look at the pictures below there is a bubble just in front of the motor mount and upon further examination the front cross member piece looks as thought it has hit a tree. Seems to be bent in. Can this be fixed? What are the issues here? Thanks

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John McVicker

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Looks like you have a nice project ahead of you. Regarding getting smog stuff..I suggest going to the 'Parting Out' section. Always plenty of smog stuff for sale.

When you remove the remaining gasket, just fill your cyls. up with shop rags, have your compressor/blow gun handy & go to town with a scrapper, maybe some 80 grit sandpaper & keep blowing it away. You can substitute sandpaper with those 3M hand held foam sanding blocks.

Regarding your frame, I am not sure I see any damage. Can you take a couple more pictures of the area in question.

John

Edit: Also be sure to keep debri out of the water & head bolt holes. On the head bolts, be sure to clean them up real good. What I do is spray PB blaster in the holes, get a clean bolt & run it up & down a few times, with an air ratchet, just a little bit at a time, while blowing away the debri around & inside the holes. Do this until you can easily run the bolt up & down with your hand. Then you can get a true torque reading when you put it back together.
 
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Joined
Jan 8, 2006
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Tucson, AZ
If you reuse the stock Intake/Exhaust manifold check for warpage. If it's warped some a machine shop should be able to plane it straight for you.

Let us know how it goes.

Matt
 
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Dec 21, 2006
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I wonder if you could do a compression test as soon as the head and rocker is put back on? I know that the valves may not be 100% sealed but at least it would be easier to know where exactly the engine compression is and if you need to pull it back off and do a in car re-ring that would be the time.
 

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