Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (4 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

Here's max stuff driver side and max droop passenger side.

The droop is best MAX guestimate. I measured the distance from the frame up to match the shock towers. I doubt it ever goes that far. If it does it should still clear though.

 

[aztoyman]

I had to trim sheet metal to make room for 37's. I can trim more up front if ever needed but not so easy if it hits the firewall.

So opinions welcome.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's the reality. Once I position it where I want it, that's where it will stay.

Even though I have some adjustment available, there is VERY little room around the frame side panhard bracket to shift anything. Once it's welded on its a big deal to move it. I would also have to enlarge the notch in the passenger frame rail. (Which I haven't cut yet) I need to get this right the first time, or VERY close at least.

I had to cut the tack welds and move the upper link axle housing bracket a little. It was too close to the panhard bar. I'll need to shift the rear upper link bracket a bit as well. Getting down to the fine details now.

 

[Will Van]

Dumb question - What is the name of this tool? It looks like an air powered reciprocating saw. Does it work well for precisely cutting sheet metal free hand?

 

[aztoyman]

Yep, it's an air saw. Harbor Freight sells cheap ones that work pretty well. This one is an Ingersoll Rand I bought years ago.

It's great for dash work and sheet metal. I found that I could cut out custom blades from my old hacksaw blades.

Edit: Will, I don't know how "precise" you want to be. It can be fairly precise in some cases. In some difficult to reach spots or on contoured surfaces it is sometimes tough to get a precise cut so I cut close and trim with a die grinder or similar tool.

 

[pappy]

Dumb question - What is the name of this tool? It looks like an air powered reciprocating saw. Does it work well for precisely cutting sheet metal free hand?

I call it a body saw.

 

[Will Van]

Yep, it's an air saw. Harbor Freight sells cheap ones that work pretty well. This one is an Ingersoll Rand I bought years ago.

It's great for dash work and sheet metal. I found that I could cut out custom blades from my old hacksaw blades.

Edit: Will, I don't know how "precise" you want to be. It can be fairly precise in some cases. In some difficult to reach spots or on contoured surfaces it is sometimes tough to get a precise cut so I cut close and trim with a die grinder or similar tool.

I call it a body saw.

I need to make a tight radius cut for intercooler piping. Not sure if a body saw is the best option.

 

[aztoyman]

Probably not the best tool option for that unless you get close and finish to size with something else.

 

[pappy]

I need to make a tight radius cut for intercooler piping. Not sure if a body saw is the best option.

Probably not the best tool option for that unless you get close and finish to size with something else.

I agree. I routinely bend the blades if I try to cut anything that tight.

 

[gnob]

Cut it close and clean it up with a cylindrical sander.

 

[Will Van]

Probably not the best tool option for that unless you get close and finish to size with something else.

I agree. I routinely bend the blades if I try to cut anything that tight.

10-4. Is there a better tool for a precision cut?

 

[aztoyman]

Access is pretty limited. Maybe something like a rotozip??

 

[peacesells63]

10-4. Is there a better tool for a precision cut?

for intercooler piping or any pass through, I use a hole saw. In the picture you posted above where there is already a hole where your pilot bit would go, I weld a piece of scrap in place to cover the hole. Thicker steel is better for larger hole saws. Then clean the edges up with a sanding drum in a die grinder.

 

[peacesells63]

I like how it looks with the axle pushed forward for 37's. I had a little bit of rub in the battery tray area on mine, only noticed because of the rub mark. If you plan on 37's, definitely go that route.

 

[aztoyman]

35's right now and why it looks a little weird to me. But, I think you're right. It is where it needs to be with 37's. Too bad everyone I know with 37's have Jeeps. Or maybe I could borrow a set for mock-up.

Thanks for following along and the advice.

 

[aztoyman]

I got a start on the steering box mock up today. It's "roughly" positioned on the frame. I had to remove it from the 88 and trim some sheet metal.

I still need to fabricate a mount for it. I'm going to make the mounting plate on the inside frame rail so it reinforces the corner of the frame.

I basically clamped it on the frame so I could check the steering stop adjustment. I took the knuckles off the 88 axle housing and thought the adjustment would be close. It wasn't.

I had to trim my passenger side steering arm more in order to get full travel to the stop. There's maybe 1/16" of clearance now at max steering box travel.

 

[aztoyman]

Before I mount the steering box I need to recheck the tire fit in the wheel wells now that the steering stops are properly set. I'm finding out that every change or adjustment affects other things so I cycle it all again and make sure the axle housing stays centered and the caster hasn't changed at ride height.

I had a close call with the caster. I wasted a couple hours trying to figure out why my angles were off when they weren't before. The short version is I didn't notice that the axle housing rotated when I had the upper link off. It flops easily and I inadvertently set the caster at 6 degrees on the wrong side of center. If I hadn't been rechecking things and noticed something wasn't right it would have been really bad. (Plus I bugged Brian with my WTF question and had him scratching his head.) Sorry Brian.

 

[aztoyman]

I haven't given up, just had a few other things get in the way. I hope all had a happy Thanksgiving. I have family here so I should be back on the build after the weekend.

Brian from 4Wheelunderground actually contacted me Thanksgiving day to help me sort some things out and I got my rear 4 link ordered. Great guy with excellent customer service.

 

[aztoyman]

I tinkered around with the truck today. I started to build my FROR crossmember but, Brian@4Wheelunderground recommended that I hold off. I might be rethinking it when the rear 4 link goes in.

Brian also noticed that I have the wrong frame side panhard bracket so I cut the tack welds so I can swap it for the correct one.

That and no springs yet holds me up a bit but, not completely. I cut more sheet metal out of the wheel wells so I can set the shock towers in place. Just to get an idea of things to come. Man it's going to be tight on the driver side.

I'm going to have to mock up the brake booster, master cylinder and the steering column before I can even think about final shock tower position.

The panhard bracket and bump stop needs to be in place first as well.

I'm thinking about moving my battery to the bed. That's a lot of weight sitting on the little bit of sheet metal that's left after all the trimming. My 88 started cracking and I had to reinforce it. I'll find a better place for it.

I'm just going to plug away on what I can until I get more parts.

 

[aztoyman]

I installed the starter and clutch slave cylinder since they need to be in for final clearance checks.

I also stuck the brake booster and master cylinder on temporarily to see how much room I have around the shock tower. It's going to be tight. Might have to rework the hard line off it. No big deal since I need to install an adjustable proportioning valve anyway. Looks like I might have to get creative with the steering shaft. Too early to tell for sure.

Did a bunch more trimming of the fender wells and took care of the pinch weld on the passenger side.

I'm trying to accomplish anything I can while waiting for my suspension parts. I need that panhard bracket.