Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (13 Viewers)

[peacesells63]

You’re on the right track, I always push the axle far enough forward that I don’t have to trim the firewall at all, the sheet metal up front is easier to hack.

The worst part about building a link setup is all of the cycling and checking clearances. Make sure when you mount your coilovers they clear the tire when flexing. I always put one spring on the shock so I can slide it up and down to check clearance.

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks for your support. I still haven't gotten the springs yet. I'll just keep plugging away. Plenty of other things to do. I have a feeling I'm going to be taking 1-2" out of the lower links though. I didn't get to do much today. I did manage to get one steering arm done.

 

[aztoyman]

I was going to make a tapered insert like Marlin Crawler sells but I made something a little different. His is actually for a pitman arm and is 1" diameter.

I didn't want to drill that big of a hole in my steering arms. I also don't want to worry about it pushing through so I made a stepped bushing and a stepped hole in the arm.

I'll have to get pics of the adapter tomorrow. I didn't get any when I was making it.

I used a 5/8" (I think) end mill and bored through the arm. Then I used a 3/4" end mill to counter bore halfway through the thickness of the steering arm.

I made the bushing out of some scrap thick wall tube. I made it a press fit into the steering arm hoping I wouldn't have to weld it. The taper holds it on one side and the counter bore keeps it from pulling through. The plan was to be able to easily remove it if I ever decide to go with Heim steering.

Didn't work out as planned. It finally rotated when the reamer started to make full contact. So I ended up using the TIG to fuse the seam and filed it flat.

I turned the bushing on the lathe, pressed it in and reamed the taper once it was in the arm.

I'm happy with the way it turned out. I'll take better pics when I make the other side tomorrow.

 

[aztoyman]

I didn't have a full day to work on it today. I did get a few things accomplished though.

I got the other steering arm done. The tube I used to make the bushing is 7/8" x .190" wall. Just happened to have a piece in my stash and it worked out.

I made this one much tighter. I ended up TIG welding the seam so it doesn't get knocked out the next time I change my TRE. I also put a hardened washer on for extra security.

Now that the taper is from the bottom, the TRE's are up closer to the arms giving me more clearance from the diff.

The bushing in the pic is long. I trimmed it flush with the surface after I pressed it in.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's the tube and the reamer. Installed and good to go.

 

[aztoyman]

I need to get a shock on it to see how far it's going to actually droop.

The lower shock mounts straddle the bolt head for the lower link.

Instructions say to space the ears at 1 1/2" so I used washers to hold it. I used a 15/16" thick wall impact socket to make sure I center it before welding. The washer has to come off . It's too big to fit between the ears.

 

[aztoyman]

I got the lower shock mount tacked on and partially cut the fender well so I could get the shock positioned "relatively" close to where it will be.

I put a jack under each wheel and stuffed the driver side wheel up in the wheel well. Let the passenger side droop where the shock is fully extended.

I definitely have to shorten the lower links. Looks like 1 to 2 inches. I'm going to cut off an inch, reset caster if needed and make sure the pan hard link is still correct then recheck the wheel clearance. I'll do it until it's right.

I still need to trim and flatten the pinch weld at the firewall for a little extra room.

Lots of test fitting ahead.

 

[peacesells63]

I got the lower shock mount tacked on and partially cut the fender well so I could get the shock positioned "relatively" close to where it will be.

I put a jack under each wheel and stuffed the driver side wheel up in the wheel well. Let the passenger side droop where the shock is fully extended.

I definitely have to shorten the lower links. Looks like 1 to 2 inches. I'm going to cut off an inch, reset caster if needed and make sure the pan hard link is still correct then recheck the wheel clearance. I'll do it until it's right.

I still need to trim and flatten the pinch weld at the firewall for a little extra room.

Lots of test fitting ahead.

If you haven’t already, set your link length with the rod ends turned all the way in, then backed out 1/4” each. That leaves some adjustment in either direction. You can extend the links from that position 1” no problem.

Looks good man, lots of progress

 

[aztoyman]

I'm glad you mentioned that. I asked Brian if I should go slightly shorter so I have room to adjust. He said all the way in is best. No more than 1/2" of thread showing.

I don't want to risk the shanks bending or breaking but some adjustability might be good to have.

 

[peacesells63]

The further in the better, but as long as the threads are fully engaged in the bung, your'e good. My guess is you would bend the link long before the shank, .250 wall 2" dom lower links aren't that hard to bend. Fortunately the links tuck up nicely on these kits, I highly doubt you'd have any trouble.

How long is the threaded part of the shank on those summit joints? and how long is the bung?

 

[aztoyman]

I think the bung completely covered the shank? I'm not positive though. I'll look when I cut the tack weld to shorten the tube.

 

[peacesells63]

In their pictures it looks like there is about 1/2” or so with the jam nut. I think the shaft on my Johnny joints are a bit longer. The bungs I used on this truck are 1.9” long, jam nut is .35”. Regardless, I always leave some room for adjustment in both directions. The clearance around my panhard bracket is so tight that I can’t move the axle anyways, but I like to be able to square everything up on the alignment rack

 

[aztoyman]

You're right about that. I saw today how TIGHT it is around the frame side panhard bracket.

Mandatory to have the panhard bar parallel to the drag link, drag link parallel to the tie rod. At RIDE HEIGHT is the key. Because I saw today at max stuff the bolt head for the panhard bar is hitting the tie rod at full steer IF I tried to keep it parallel at max stuff. There's not much room for adjustment with that bracket because it's also for the bump stop.

I can see now I better position my steering box and drag link to fine tune what little adjustment I have before welding.

Anyway, here's some pics of the Summit Machine flex joints.

 

[aztoyman]

I did shorten the lower links an inch today. Actually the upper as well. Had to reset caster and move the panhard bracket. I rechecked max stuff on driver side with passenger at "approximate" max droop. Checked at full steer left and right. Definitely better. I think I can cut another inch out though.

I'm going to check clearance after I get the pinch weld trimmed. Maybe tomorrow. I'm not cutting the links until I do so.

I'm definitely getting to the fine tuning stage. Kinda sucks cutting tack welds and doing things all over but it's gotta be done.

I got a late start today because I looked at and bought another Toyota truck. Yeah I have a problem. I declined at first but it was so cheap I HAD to get it. And I don't have room for it anywhere. I'm hoping I can flip it to help fund this build.

 

[peacesells63]

Looks good!

Those are definitely short, the shanks on my Johnny joints are 3.25” long. Odds are you'll only adjust it once

What's the new truck?

 

[aztoyman]

Yeah, that's why I'm being cautious before I cut. It would be an expensive mistake.

I bought a straight, rust free 1990 SR5 Xtra Cab long bed. Sitting 15 years at a friend's house. He took the fuel tank out to put in a new pump and then gave up. Old guy I know. He was going to pay to have it hauled away as scrap. It's a 2wd but I thought I'd take a chance getting it running.

 

[aztoyman]

I trimmed the pinch weld in the wheel well today so I could double check my clearance and lower link length.

That stuff Toyota sprays in the wheel wells is not fun to remove. It's on thick. I used a wire wheel and cup brush on my 4 1/2" grinder. The stuff flew off like silly string and stuck on everything.

I trimmed back the flange on the pinch weld and rolled it over with a hammer. I'll put some seam sealer on when it's paint time. I'm happy with the look and the additional tire clearance. I'm not happy that I found the rust hole you can see in the pics. Weird spot for it.

 

[aztoyman]

So I'm not going to trim the lower links any shorter. They are perfect for my 35's when the rod ends are turned fully in. However, I plan on going to 37's plus I'd like a little wiggle room for link adjustment. Rotating the links so I have just 1/4" of thread showing on each end gives me enough room for the future 37's. And this is firewall clearance. I can still trim the lip of the fender if I need to.

The X you see in the fender well near the front is where the tire hits. That's getting cut out for the steering box anyway.

The steering box mock up is next.

* Something else I noticed today* It doesn't matter if the shock has more travel for droop in my test fitting today. The upper link rotates and will hit the inside of the frame rail before the shock maxes out. The way I have it set "today" anyway.

 

[aztoyman]

I have to go get the 2wd truck tomorrow and get it through the MVD so not sure if I'll have time to get to this build. I also have medical stuff to take care of Thursday so it'll be Friday before I get back on it.

The plan is to mock-up the steering box and double check steering stop adjustment before continuing with the suspension clearance checks.

The T-case mount kit shipped today so I've got that to do soon.

I hope my springs show up soon.

 

[aztoyman]

I did get some time on the truck today. I'm hoping for some feedback from yous guys.

I think it looked better where I centered the wheels a few days ago. Perfect for my 35's.

Today I moved the axle forward to give me firewall clearance for 37's.

This is what it looks like with a 26" ride height.