86 4Runner Purchase (1 Viewer)

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May 17, 2004
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Hey guys new to this section! Just this week a buddy of mines referred me to this guy who has a very clean 86 4runner and I am looking to buy it by next friday. He recently had alot of work done on it. From what I could see from the work order the plugs/wires, distr. cap, fuel filter, front and rear brakes along w/ the rotors, cats & muffler, O2 Sensor, coolant f&f, and oil change. He said that the belts might still need to be changed. Is there anything else I should be looking for?

I did not see any rust at all on the body. However, the underside has a few areas that are small that I am sure I could fix easily. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated. I am hoping to get it by next friday. The guy said it would be okay to take to mechanic shop and I might do that but I like to see if there is anything else I should look for myself.

Thanks again.
STeve
 
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Dan,
Thanks for those suggestions. Very stupid question but does the truck need to be on a lift to do the pull/push test on the wheels? Thanks
 
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Not really, wheels off the ground is best, but you should be able to notice any play. Grab the tire at 12 o'clock and start pulling and pushing. Even if you do get a bit of movement, its likely you just need wheel bearings. Might as well check all the steering parts while you are down there. Sounds like a solid truck.
Good Luck,
Dan

P.S. I just looked at the year and thought that you might want to check for play/clicking in the CV shafts.
D
 
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Littleton Colorado
YngTLCOwner said:
Hey guys new to this section! Just this week a buddy of mines referred me to this guy who has a very clean 86 4runner and I am looking to buy it by next friday. He recently had alot of work done on it. From what I could see from the work order the plugs/wires, distr. cap, fuel filter, front and rear brakes along w/ the rotors, cats & muffler, O2 Sensor, coolant f&f, and oil change. He said that the belts might still need to be changed. Is there anything else I should be looking for?

I did not see any rust at all on the body. However, the underside has a few areas that are small that I am sure I could fix easily. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated. I am hoping to get it by next friday. The guy said it would be okay to take to mechanic shop and I might do that but I like to see if there is anything else I should look for myself.

Thanks again.
STeve

Does this truck have a 22re? If so i'd look at the timing chain.
 
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Dan,
Thanks for the advice on the CV Shafts. There is some clicking w/ it. Is this something that is easy to change? Approximate cost?

KliersLC said:
Not really, wheels off the ground is best, but you should be able to notice any play. Grab the tire at 12 o'clock and start pulling and pushing. Even if you do get a bit of movement, its likely you just need wheel bearings. Might as well check all the steering parts while you are down there. Sounds like a solid truck.
Good Luck,
Dan

P.S. I just looked at the year and thought that you might want to check for play/clicking in the CV shafts.
D
 
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bh4rnnr said:
Does this truck have a 22re? If so i'd look at the timing chain.
Yes, it is a 22re. If the truck has only 98k miles will the chain need to be changed right away? It is original owner and miles. Any sites w/ info on changing the timing chain?

Thanks
 
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The chain isn't bad to replace, but with 98k you shouldn't need to worrry about it. IIRC on the 22R, to check the chain, all you had to do was pull the the valve cover and measure a couple of links with a micrometer to make sure it was in specs. CV shafts are pretty easy to replace, but a PITA to rebuild. I only had an 81 and an 85 with solid axles, and I haven't had to deal with the T100 axles yet, but I scattered one in the wifes Camry and they were about 100 bucks per side. I did use a 87 4runner axle for my manual hub swap, and it seems that all that is involved for CV shaft replacement is unbolting from axle flange (6 bolts) removing retaining bolt at hub, slide out and replace. There may be a couple other minor steps involving 4 letter words, But I think thats about it. Somebody else please chime in if I am mistake. Anyway, its hard to go wrong on a low mileage TOY.
Good Luck,
Dan
 
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YngTLCOwner said:
Yes, it is a 22re. If the truck has only 98k miles will the chain need to be changed right away? It is original owner and miles. Any sites w/ info on changing the timing chain?

Thanks
There is another issue with the 22r timing chain. The OEM guides are plastic. It they break the chain rubs a hole in the coolant passage that runs through the timing cover and you get water in your oil. Pretty common failure with these engines. Telltale sign is extra rattling from the chain. You can replace with plastic guides or metal ones. Either way, pay now or pay later.

Cheap tricks
I went kind of wrong with my low miles '86 4runner. 106,000 miles and have:
replaced head (knew this before I bought it)
replaced rear springs (typical Toyota butt sag)
replaced clutch master cylinder (also fairly typical)
replaced clutch slave cylinder (PO was friend. We did the cylinders just before I bought it.)
replaced tires (just worn out)
refurbished rear window motor (twice - probably needs replaced)
needs synchros
needs transfer output bearings/seals

BUT, it is clean and straight, nice interior, very minor rust only, everything else works great, fun to drive, runs great off-road, a blast in the summer with the top off, and I bought it cheap. YMMV
 
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Thanks for the Timing Chain info. I will be meeting w/ the owner today and getting a list of all the work that was done recently. Then I will have idea of what else will need to be done. Thanks again guys for your help. I will make sure to post pic once the truck is in my possesion.
 
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CV shafts are cheep used. I have 2 that I will be cutting the IFS out of a truck here soon. You should be able to find plenty in So.Cal! Some people will almost give them away. I know there is only 1 IFS left in our club, so we got plenty here in the Midwest.
 
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KliersLC said:
The chain isn't bad to replace, but with 98k you shouldn't need to worrry about it. Dan
When i pulled mine apart at 70k to do the timing chain the factory plastic guides were already gone. I would go ahead and change it if i were you. It will take you a weekend and about $200 in parts to get it back together and as good as new. make sure you get aftermarket metal backed guides when you replace them.
 
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less than 100K miles!? Buy it. buy it NOW!! that trucks not even broke in.
youll be happy. people say ifs sucks to fourwheel. and solid is better. its not true.
example: theres sposed to be 3 big ass bolts that hold the spindle on on both sides.
i only got 2, on one side! someone broke it before i bought it.
with only 2 critical bolts, it still out wheels most other toys.
the only way to kill a yoter is to put it in lava. that is "HOT" lava!!
 
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WristPin said:
less than 100K miles!? Buy it. buy it NOW!! that trucks not even broke in.
youll be happy. people say ifs sucks to fourwheel. and solid is better. its not true.
example: theres sposed to be 3 big ass bolts that hold the spindle on on both sides.
i only got 2, on one side! someone broke it before i bought it.
with only 2 critical bolts, it still out wheels most other toys.
the only way to kill a yoter is to put it in lava. that is "HOT" lava!!

Hopefully, if everything goes well I will have it by this coming Friday! I can't wait to get it. This is my first 4runner & 22re motor. I have heard so many good things about them. I will post pics as soon as I can.
 
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71-CRUISER said:
When i pulled mine apart at 70k to do the timing chain the factory plastic guides were already gone. I would go ahead and change it if i were you. It will take you a weekend and about $200 in parts to get it back together and as good as new. make sure you get aftermarket metal backed guides when you replace them.

Don't know why that is, but my 81 22R went to 270k with no timing chain work before losing a rod on a wheeling trip, My 85 22RE went to 256K before it jumped time :eek: , and my 94 4runner had 171K on it when I sold it and no timing chain troubles. Still worth doing as PM, but hardly a severe defect.

Anybody have any info on what years that was more common on?

Dan
 
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When I pulled mine apart it was nowere neer "jumping time" worn out but the guides had both broken and the chain was rubing on the cover. It probably would have run another 100k that way but it still needed to be done.

A good double chain set from someone like LC www.lcengineering.com and you would be good to go for another 200k

Oh and by the way you will love the truck.
 
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KliersLC said:
Don't know why that is . . . hardly a severe defect.
Dan
I'll back peddle a step or two. I learned it from a Harley-dude I work with who's been working on his own Toyota trucks and LCs for quite a few years. I had water in the oil and he warned me that was a possible cause. He had seen it on a couple of his trucks. The internet, bless it's soulless existence, reinforced that idea - lots of hits for this particular problem. Then I called an import repair shop with a good reputation and they gave me the same warning.

So my "knowledge" of it really was circumstantial. Then I pulled my timing cover. The guides were still in place and doing their job, but one of them had broken at one of the bolts that hold it in place and was being held mostly by friction.

Not sure about what years are more or less prone to this. I guess it's only a severe problem if it goes unnoticed long enough to cause poor lubrication. And I have heard from the same sources I gave that when it happens you can hear the chain rattling against the timing cover. A stethoscope is helpful.

They say YMMV. Geez Louse, those are some good mileages! I can only hope I get something similar. :)
 
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Well just got the truck today. I have to still clean it up a bit and baseline the fluids and change the belts but other than that the truck is great! I will add couple more pics tomorrow after work. Thank you Dan, Theo, 71-Cruiser, and everyone else for your help.

Pic#1


Pic#2



Thanks again guys!!!
 

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