85 fj60 a/c repair

Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
130
Location
Houston TX
Well I am going make my first attempt to fix my a/c, its getting hot here in Houston and its now my dd. I decided I was going to just tell you guys what I was going to do and if someone wants to chime in that would be great. First off I belive my system is completely out of r12, the reason I think it still has r12 is there are no r134 adapters on the compressor. The old compressor looked like it had a bad leak around the clutch and also the low side. I pressed the valve to check for pressure because there was nothing in the sight glass on the drier and nothing came out. Is it safe to assume that all the refrigerant is out of the system and I can move to the next step of the a/c repair? Or, is there most likely some residual in the system and I should get it evacuated? Depending on some feedback about whether the system is emty or not ( if there is still r12 left in the system I will get it properly evacuated) like I said nothing came out of the valves when I pressed them for a check ie.. it all leaked out the compressor. Regardless the system will be emty when its serviced.
So I ordered a new compressor from Rex as well as a dryer, o-ring kit. After replacing the compressor and dryer as well as the o-rings next I'm going to rent a manifold and vacuum pump. At this time I'm going to put a vacuum on the system for about an hour hopefully holding a vacuum of about 30. If the gauges stay about that then would assume the system has no leaks. Now, I was told by Rex that the compressor already has oil in it so I should not have to add any for the r12. So next I would recharge the system with the fsm recommendation in the low side of system.. Any thoughts would be appreciated and hopefully it can help someone in the future. By the way I got the EPA 609 cert to buy r12 so if you guys know of any place to get some let me know.
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
9
if you hit the fill valve and theres no presure then its dead. a.c. is a zero loss system and when theres no pressure there is a leak.most likely on a o-ring but could be acrack in a line.dont bother going back w/ r-12 ,convert over to r134a its way cheaper when you have a leak.even if you have to put a can in a few times a summer its still cheaper.r 134a dosent cool as well and it can leak through smaller holes than r 12 but it is way cheaper to replace.the a.c. system is pretty simple to work on and i have been through it with a bunch of older vehicals.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
571
Location
Tucson
gonzale20,

I just finished doing a similar rebuild on mine, as well as getting my 609 cert.

Rex has R12 for $26 a can or search your local Craigslist. There is usually plenty on there to buy locally.

Personally, I wanted to stay with R12 because here in Tucson the temps get so high that I need all the cooling I can get.


If there is no pressure, there is no R12. I would install all of your new components and then I would pull the vaccuum on the system and then remove the guages and let the system stay in a vaccuum state for a few days to make sure there aren't any slow leaks. Put your gauges back on and see where it sits. You will loose a slight amount of vaccuum by removing and reinstalling the gauges, but only about 1 to 1.5 inches of mercury. Many times a slow leak won't show up right away in vaccuum. Once you pressurize the system over 200psi running the compressor, the leaks will show and it is too late and all your precious R12 will be lost. (remember R12 is liquid gold!)

Good luck!

Don
 
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
130
Location
Houston TX
Longbow
Once I get the system air tight, what numbers am i looking for on the gauges at the high and low side to know my system is fully charged?
 
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Oct 6, 2013
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